Barn construction planning and fencing
   

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Barn construction planning and fencing

This is a discussion on Barn construction planning and fencing within the Barn Maintenance forums, part of the Barns, Boarding, and Farms category
  • Cost of building a horse barn and fencing
  • Shed row barn boarding

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    08-29-2013, 09:53 AM
  #1
Foal
Barn construction planning and fencing

Hi everyone. I have two horses whom I have boarded for the past 3 years, but the costs are a bit high and I am looking to bring my horses home to save me some $ over the long term. I know it will take a few years, but that is fine. We are looking to build a simple shedrow barn (project hubby and I will take on as we are both very good mechanically) and the fencing as well. Anyone have any ideas on expectations of costs for a 3 stall shedrow barn with an overhang? Since we are planning on doing the building ourselves, we anticipate the savings will be significant. We got quotes for same pre-fab and they started at 12k. If there is anyone out here that has built their own barn, I'd love to hear your story!

As for the fencing, we are considering electrobraid fencing rather than post/rail and vinyl. Does anyone have experience with electrobraid and how effective it is/safe? I know it is cost effective compared to the other more expensive type of fencing, but we want to ensure it's safe and will contain the horses.

Thank you and I look forward to your responses.


Cheryl
     
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    08-29-2013, 12:29 PM
  #2
Yearling
Cost can vary so much depending on choice of material, flooring, how much you do yourself and land prep for the area concerned.
As for fencing I have used electric tape for well over 20 years in all types of situations. I always intended to upgrade but I never was necessary. If the horses can see it, if the charge is strong enough they will respect it and the cost is much less than more permanent type fencing that I would still have to run electric with to keep the horses off of it. We have run two strands in temporary situations , one across gates but for permanent pasture we used to run three when it was just the drafts and 4 once we had saddle horses and babies to contain. They have to respect it for it to be effective and the key to that is your charger. Never use a charger that isn't rated for that type of fence, choose a charger that will make them take notice if they touch it and make sure you have the fence attached to the charger properly, make sure you have the recommended number of grounds and that you have at least one of your strands as a ground wire, the rest can be hot or you can alternate hot,ground,hot, ground if you have babies and adults. We've had some scuffs if the charger isn't working and the horses run through but no major injuries.
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    08-31-2013, 04:43 AM
  #3
Trained
Quote:
Originally Posted by ca4ta    
We are looking to build a simple shedrow barn (project hubby and I will take on as we are both very good mechanically) and the fencing as well. Anyone have any ideas on expectations of costs for a 3 stall shedrow barn with an overhang? Since we are planning on doing the building ourselves, we anticipate the savings will be significant. We got quotes for same pre-fab and they started at 12k. If there is anyone out here that has built their own barn, I'd love to hear your story!
Here is the simple pole barn/shelter that we built ourselves 2 years ago. It's 28'x30' overall and total cost of materials was around $4500.





My tips... find a good lumber yard, sawmill, and wholesale siding place. You can save a bundle using rough sawn lumber from a sawmill where appropriate. Use metal roofing/siding. Fast to put up, lasts a long time and doesn't need painting. Use bolts/screws instead of nails; costs a little more, but they don't back out over time, and you'll save on future maintenance.

Quote:
As for the fencing, we are considering electrobraid fencing rather than post/rail and vinyl. Does anyone have experience with electrobraid and how effective it is/safe? I know it is cost effective compared to the other more expensive type of fencing, but we want to ensure it's safe and will contain the horses.
Except for our ring and pens, we use electric polyrope like electrobraid in the pastures. All our horses grew up with electric and don't bother with the fence at all, so we typically have only one strand, 3' high, with rebar posts every 30' and have never had a horse go under, over, through it, or injured by it. With a young foal, we add a second strand at 1 1/2' because they tend to sleep and roll under one strand, but he's already big enough that we no longer need it. It only takes a foal a couple times nosing the rope to learn to stay away from it. You can't beat polyrope for price, installation, and maintenance if your horses respect the fence.



     
    08-31-2013, 06:08 PM
  #4
Green Broke
Ohmygoshthebaby.

Subbing this thread... I can't imagine ever building my own barn, but I'd love to hear everyone's answers!
     
    09-01-2013, 05:35 PM
  #5
Weanling
When we built our barn we used metal siding from Morton Buildings. These were seconds and was a fraction of the cost.

We used utility poles from the utility company, again a fraction of the cost.
Corporal likes this.
     
    09-01-2013, 09:38 PM
  #6
Started
Call National barn. They will give you an estimate, and then you will have an idea. Back in Texas, our local lumberyard sold a kit for barns and storage buildings. It included everything except foundation and labor. You may be able to find a kit like that.

Nancy
Corporal likes this.
     
    09-01-2013, 09:51 PM
  #7
Foal
Painhorsemares. What do you use to keep your poly rope taunt ? The plastic winches supplied in this area break in cold weather, and replacing them requires separating splices. I even put 2 per each straight section as they didn't look substantial - and they fail. Thought about using steel winches and springs like high tension wire but they could cut the poly. Poly rope looks best if it's kept relatively tight.
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    09-04-2013, 06:29 AM
  #8
Foal
Hi Everyone. Thanks so much for your input. Painthorsemares, the photos you included are great, as that gives me a real good idea on what I can expect. Since I live in NJ, I will have to fashion a barn that is closed up, so they can keep warm in the cold winters. Knowing what others did will help me to scavange the local lumber yards. There happens to be a Morton building office near me, so perhaps I can convince them to purchase their seconds when I need to construct the barn. And I love the idea of getting poles from the utility company. Now to figure out how to get those huge poles to my house. I will have all fall/winter to plan this as we don't intend to start construction on this until spring of 2014. I am wondering however, what to use as a foundation. I don't really want to pour concrete (which would be excellent for cleanliness but too costly). I'm guessing we'll need stone of some sort and will need to figure out just how much we'll need and how far out to extend it from the barn. Thanks again!
     
    09-04-2013, 10:10 PM
  #9
Showing
For perimeter fencing your best bet is heavier guage electric wire. The ribbon types are subject to the stresses of wind and sun. The ribbon types work well if creating separate paddocks for rotation grazing. Should it break the horse/s are still contained within the perimeter fencing. If the charger is working well the horses will sense the electricity in the wire and will keep their distance.
     
    09-05-2013, 02:49 AM
  #10
Trained
Quote:
Originally Posted by PDGx    
Painhorsemares. What do you use to keep your poly rope taunt ? The plastic winches supplied in this area break in cold weather, and replacing them requires separating splices. I even put 2 per each straight section as they didn't look substantial - and they fail. Thought about using steel winches and springs like high tension wire but they could cut the poly. Poly rope looks best if it's kept relatively tight.
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We don't use the winches. In my experience, the most sag will happen right after you install it and it stretches a bit. We just tighten it back up at the splice/corner/etc. As for looks about the sag, you're probably better off putting the posts closer if it bothers you.
     

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