Electric fence question - Page 2

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Electric fence question

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    11-11-2011, 09:37 AM
Green Broke
Well water isnt pure, lots of minerals and salts,,,, I only brought it up because of the snow, which I assume is a distilled water and maybe mineral free. As I have never heard of people having an issue with snow grounding out a fence.
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    11-11-2011, 11:33 AM
Ultra pure water that has had everything removed will have 18Mohms resistance and will not conduct electricity. Pretty much anything short of that will have ions in it and conduct electricity. The only place you will find ultra pure water is in a manufacturing setting where industrial water has been turned into pure water, not found in nature. So yes, snow will ground out your electric fence.

I've used battery powered fence chargers before. They are a pain because you do have to more vigilant about brush and keep the darn thing charged up. They will work fine for horses, the secret is to make sure it will knock you on your ass when you first put the horses in. One good zap and they'll stay away from it.

Cows is where battery powered chargers lack a lot. They are not as sensitive to electricity as a horse and will keep testing the fence (lay their whiskers on it to feel for a tingle). The second your charge goes low, they walk through it.

I also agree that battery chargers cost you more in the end. The second power is turned on at the barn is the second you turn on your brand spanking new AC powered fence charger as you will be hardily sick of your battery powered on by then. Only use batteries when you have no other choice.

FYI, I've run a mile of electric fence along a road just to get to a plug in.
    11-11-2011, 11:52 AM
We're leaving in a few minutes to buy an electric fence. We have a Draft, Draft/Thoroughbred cross and Quarter Horse.

We have metal and wood fence posts with non-climb and "V" wire.

What would be the best electric fence? We're also considering using just electric fence to expand the pasture. Would this contain them for outings during the day?
    11-11-2011, 12:13 PM
Yes, a properly done electric fence will have no problems keeping horses in once they've been introduced to it except in rare cases. Horses are really sensitive to electricity and do not like being shocked so it's all you really need for them. I've seen horses avoid where a fence line used to be up to 6 mos after the fence line was moved. The rare case is a horse my dad had that sometimes would decide she's going through that **** fence. She would back off to mid pasture then run full tilt at the fence. I swear she closed her eyes and gritted her teeth just before impact. Once through she would drop her head and start eating. None of the other horses would ever follow her through.

As someone already mentioned, get a fence charger that has been rated for at least 25 miles, 50 is better. Anything less doesn't have enough to keep going through brush/grass leaning against the fence.

Personally I don't like ribbon or nylon braided fencing. After a few years they become sun rotted and break easily in the wind. Also they just can't carry the juice due to the tiny size of wiring in them which can cause issues. I get solid wire fencing and have never had a problem with it.

Hint: Whatever wiring you decide on buy a roll or two of regular trail marking ribbon. Tie ribbon "flags" to your fencing as you go. This makes it very easy for horses to see until they learn where the fence line is. After the first couple days it is no longer needed until you move the fence to a new location.
    11-11-2011, 12:19 PM
Thank you. That's the information I needed.
    11-11-2011, 12:36 PM
Forgot to add, you want to run two strands as a minimum, three strands with taller posts. Run one 6" off the ground and the second ~4ft from the ground. With taller posts do 6" from top and bottome and one in the middle.

Without the ground string they'll start nibbling under the fence. When they do hit the top wire they'll be just as likely to jump forwards as backwards when the top of their neck gets hit. If they go forward, bye bye fence.

With taller posts you have a higher string to keep them from trying to reach over the fence.

Also, with solid fencing (no climb/wood) you should still put a top and bottom strand of hotwire. This will keep them from pushing into the fence for tidbits on the other side. Without protection of a hotwire they can completely destroy solid fencing in only a few years by constantly pushing into it.
    11-11-2011, 08:24 PM
Thank you.

We bought rope wire and a "30 mile" charger. We have about 1300' to put up and the sales person also suggested 2 lines. We'll be running 1 line about 2' off the ground and the other 4'. We're going a little higher off the ground because of the 2 Drafts.
    11-11-2011, 08:54 PM
Green Broke
You might want to pick up one of the neon fence testers. My unit pegs it at over 5000 volts. I can assure you if it's installed properly, you won't want to test it by touching it.

Next door neighbor kid touched it....knocked him to the ground.....so I'm standing over him saying "boy, you all right"? Took about 30 seconds or so before his chickens started clucking again.

He'll never do that again and told all the other neighbor kids what happened.

Had another dumb one try it.....after being told......I guess he thought we both were lying to him.....almost the same results.

They use the darn gate now.
    11-11-2011, 09:04 PM
We did buy a tester. I'm not inclined to stick my tongue to it. LOL

I feel badly doing it to the horses but the Draft likes to lean against the fence and push it over!
    11-12-2011, 12:59 AM
Don't feel bad, the alternative is a rather large animal running loose and potentially causing all sorts of havoc.

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