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Electric fence question

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  • How many joules do you need for horse fencing
  • How many joules of electric charger will i need for a stallion

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    11-12-2011, 08:40 AM
That's what I'm afraid of. We're bringing them home today. If they jump the fence tonight, we live in the woods and I'm afraid we won't find them.
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    11-12-2011, 09:04 AM
Sorry I'm arriving late to this thread.

I have the solar charger rated for 25 miles and have been pretty happy with it, but here's some things to consider. In a long stretch of cloudy weather, the charger goes dead. And we had it go dead once during a drought, because the ground was so dry there was no conductivity. We went out and poured a five gallon bucket of water on the ground wire each night and that fixed the problem. I have two paddocks one 3 1/2 acres and one 1 1/2 acres, with two strands of electric.

HOWEVER, and this is a big however - my electric is secondary fencing, designed to keep the horses off the fence. The electric is not what keeps the horses in, it just keeps them off the primary fence. I know lots of people use just electric and t-posts and they keep their horses safe and secure, but I wouldn't do it, particulary if you're relying on the solar charger. There's just too much that can go wrong - branch or tree on the fence, posts getting pushed over, charger failing, smart horse that knows how to outsmart the wire. If you're fencing off an auxillary area for supplemental grazing, that's fine, or dividing or cross fencing that's fine but I would not trust two strands of electric to keep my horses in 24/7 year round, particulary not on t-posts or landscape timbers.

Just my .02.
    11-12-2011, 10:46 AM
Much great advise given here IMHO.
I'am partial to Parmak,and HorsePower chargers.
I don't have a horse in their race but have found good competative prices dealing with :Electric Fence Supplies for Fine Electric Fencing.
Of course every region differs but I stay away from solo battery powered chargers and use ac and solar units.

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    11-12-2011, 03:04 PM
Thanks for the advice.

We went with a 1 joule, 30 mile charger. I didn't want solar at all.

We were only going to use the wire to add an extra grazing area that could be used during the day while DH is home. I would never trust just electric wire to keep them in.
    11-12-2011, 08:20 PM
Originally Posted by Joe4d    
Might want to recheck your science books Water is not a conductor. Pure water has an extremely high resistance. It is the minerals and salts that ionize in a water solution that cause it to conduct.
Yup, agreed. Just didn't get how you got that water had to have salt specifically in it.

I have no idea how much mineral content is in snow though.
Apparently not very much, since most electric fences don't get sufficient open current from ground when there is snow. Mind you -- the ground itself is very dry in the winter, which is another issue. The less moisture in the ground, the less ground you get. [/quote]

"A" DC charger... How many joules ? How much wire? What type of terrain Have you ever actually tested the current in the wire with all this brush you mentioned ? DC chargers that use a deep cycle car battery sized battery can do the job but do you really wanna be hauling 70lb batteries back and forth to recharge them ?
I'd have to go check how many joules. It was a $150 charger from Princess Auto -- "the better one" LOL. Terrain is clay / rock / swamp / gravel with trees, underbrush, clear areas. Yes I have tested the current. It is equal charge for the full length. And, yes, I do use either a car battery, large marine battery or even a large truck battery. As for hauling it around -- during the summer, I change out the battery only once. No big deal. During the winter, I don't know how often I have to recharge. Can't remember, but it's not a big deal to put the battery on a sled and drag it up to the shop. Hopefully soon I will have my power back and then I run a trickle charger on the the battery when needed.

High tension cable will get your job done and deer and bears can't break it.
Agree again, but in some situations that is just too much work or impossible. Here it is just about impossible to get a post in the ground that will stay in position through the freeze-thaw cycles because of the clay. I've never seen ground heave like this stuff. The first spring we were here I was shocked. Literally 5 foot heaves! It's wild.
    11-13-2011, 07:16 PM
The fencing specialist here recommends a heavy guage wire for the main containment fencing, Using two hots with a neutral or ground in between. The rope and ribbon fencing are best used for dividing pastures inside the perimeter fencing. Wind is very hard on these materials and friction where it runs back and forth across the insulators can soon result in a break. Not the case with the wire. Poor grounding is the cause of most fence problems. An old vehicle radiator buried is an excellent ground, or two ground rods placed at least three feet apart. Mine enjoy an extra area enclosed with only a single strand but only when there's no snow (fence is useless then) and only during the day. When they come in for a drink around 5 the gate is closed and they're in behind better fencing for the night.
    11-14-2011, 05:00 PM
Hello there. I would use solar charger. I also would like to steer you away from the rope wire, and suggest using the tensil wire that only cost 100.00 for 4000 feet and can be broke if horse runs threw this, not like the rope wire that acts like a saw blade if get caught on it. Here this is what we use and have 32 horses here from young to old seams to work well
    11-14-2011, 05:03 PM
Saddlebag, we don't have much wind here in South Louisiana. Hopefully, this won't be an issue.

RoflexUS, we bought the system yesterday and put up the top run of wire. We were instructed to use the rope. We have a non-climb wire across the front and "V" horse wire across the back so it isn't just an electric fence. I hope this works!

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