Originally Posted by QtrBel
I couldn't find the pics of the change from wooded area to pasture. We cleared 7.5 acres of a wooded area. The process is not an instant one. It took a few years. The actual cutting and pushing took several weeks. The piles remained for a couple of years. We burned as they dried. If your property is not level expect there to be wash and depending on the grade you may need to seed those spots immediately. I agree with leaving a couple of stands especially on the side the wind is most prevalent or coldest. I also suggest you have the stumps removed. If the trees are cut and stumps ground then when the stumps rot you have holes the animals can break legs in. If we cut and have to leave the stump it is cut off high enough to not be an issue and as it rots and becomes easy to push then we push it out and fill/grade the spot it was. In order for pasture to establish you can leave and have natives come up, mowing frequently to prevent regrowth of shrubby crap and trees or seed which can be expensive. You need to keep the animals off if you expect it to be thick. A sacrifice area while you are allowing this is essential. It can also serve as a handy pen later.
Well that saved me some typing.
No matter how you slice it stumps will = holes that need grading or filling (or both).
7.5 acres is way more than you'll need for one horse, but will allow for great pasture/grazing management.
4-6 acres (up to you) worth of grazing area (you can have trees arranged however you prefer over the 7.5 acres) gives plenty of grazing and will allow you to partition the area off into 3-4 areas so that you can rotate the grazing. There will be times, like mid - late Spring, when rapid growth will require that you cut areas that are too lush before rotating, but overall it will allow you to be able to rotate the horse onto good grass between 4-6" in height and move it off grass that's been grazed down to 2"or less. This will avoid over grazing and keep the pastured area healthier and growing well. Rotating also has the benefit of getting the FEC down (even down to 0, although anything under 150 is below the recommended level for worming and under 150 is pretty easy to reach with good rotations).