Agressive dog and livestock - Page 7 - The Horse Forum
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post #61 of 69 Old 05-04-2010, 07:59 PM
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^There's a vast difference between a herding dog doing what comes naturally though (your dog was 'herding' those sheep in her mind which is why she never touched the animals), and a dog who is just doing it just to do it. Rotties are a working dog, not a herding dog, so he isn't going to chase an animal with getting it back to a certain spot in mind. Border collies, Bearded collies, and other collies were bred to work sheep ALONE in the field...I believe Kelpies fall in that category as well; they had to know instinctively "what" to do from birth...yes, they needed training to know "how" exactly to do it, but the instinct was there...often times puppies will learn how right from their parents, which is why alot of hard core working dog breeders won't part with good working dog lines until they are much older than 8 weeks old...they give those dogs every chance to gain as much education as they can from their parents as they can. I had a border collie mix, who had no herding dog training, but she instinctively knew how to herd a flock too. On the same token, I had a Corgi mix who preferred to chase stock, and you CAN tell the difference between the two...dogs that herd aren't going to touch the animal, but a dog who chases will try their darndest TO get to the animal.

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post #62 of 69 Old 07-20-2010, 11:34 AM
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Hello Gypsy

Well what's done is done I hope your dog gets a better home and you get a better dog. I'm not going to judge or say anything. I do believe you were well intentioned and all you wanted was a happy home where all your pets would get along or at least tolerate each other.

Just some piece of advice for the next dog:

When you go to pick the dog, no matter if it's an adult from a rescue or a pup, test its temperament. Sounds to me like Duke was a dominant energetic dog, and you could not handle this combo very well.

In this case, try and avoid terriers and terrier mixes, border collies etc, high prey-drive breeds
When you get to the dog and see it for the first time, stop.
See what he's doing. Is he coming over? Is he running away? is he coming dominant? (stare you in the eyes, tail up, etc)

Try to get a more mellow submissive dog. One that would approach you respectfully, sniff your hand but not start nipping at your fingers.
Turn the dog / pup belly up and hold him gently - don't choke like Cesar Milan! - for a few seconds. is he putting up a big fight, growling? Not for you then
Is he struggling a bit but accepting and relaxing after? Good.

If you can, take him in for a trial. Most responsible breeders or rescues would understand this.
For the first 2 weeks LEAVE THE DOG ALONE. Keep him in a small paddock or something from where he can see everyone and introduce him gradually - leashed! - to all your other pets. Don't overwhelm your dog by pouring all your livestock , friends and neighbors in his space. Let him discover his new home gradually.

Do a lot of walks with him. Correct him with a firm NO if he lunges for something on leash. If he nips at you or gets rude while you play say NO again, cross your arms, turn your back to him and leave. This should easily replace the kick methods.

Things you should correct and not tolerate under any circumstances:
- dog jumping on you or your guests
- dog nipping too hard on you when playing
- dog growling at you under ANY circumstances. Even when you take fod from his bowl or from his mouth he should not growl. Make sure you check that before you take him. bring some treats and take one from him (or try) to see how he reacts. If he snarls at you, don't take that dog.
- dog manifesting obsessive compulsive signs: chasing his tail a lot, panting maniacally, whining non stop, biting his leash a lot, etc. Maniacal behaviour.

After you guys got along, try and include him in your daily activities as much as possible. Do not allow him to chase anything. Even when he wants to help you. No.
Teach him a trick or two. the easiest is fetch. They're never too old to learn that I assure you.

In the hopes that my long novel did not arrive too late, I wish you good luck with your future dog.
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post #63 of 69 Old 07-20-2010, 11:57 AM
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Edit to add - I Just realized this is an old thread. Sorry. I still believe what I posted below. I have gone back and read some posts on the page before this one. OP, I am sorry that the advice people are giving you seems to insult your idea of what you know about dogs, but the mistakes here were yours, not the dogs.

I stopped reading on page 5 so if I missed something I am truly sorry.

You are dealing with two things - one is your dog is sure he is in charge of this pack, not you. The second is a pretty serious care of barrier frustration.

I did read that you are planning on getting rid of the dog. Before you get another dog and end up in the same situation please find yourself a good behaviorist to work with.

And for the record - tying something up in the middle of the yard when something it hates is free to move around it only guarantees that once the tied up dog is loose it will go after the loose animal. Tying the dog up in the middle of the yard only amplifies the barrier frustration. It does not fix anything. I have seen this go horribly wrong more than once.

Why not take the dog out on a leash in some other area of the yard so the dog and the pig are not forced to deal with each other?

Last edited by Alwaysbehind; 07-20-2010 at 12:03 PM.
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post #64 of 69 Old 07-21-2010, 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by mom2pride View Post
^There's a vast difference between a herding dog doing what comes naturally though (your dog was 'herding' those sheep in her mind which is why she never touched the animals), and a dog who is just doing it just to do it. Rotties are a working dog, not a herding dog, .
Rotties are a very versitle breed, and were orginally herding and stock dogs.
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post #65 of 69 Old 07-21-2010, 07:19 PM Thread Starter
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Update about duke

Duke had a brain tumor and became much worse. He started to smack his head into furniture and walls. He would growl for no reason when we would pet him. He also had a breaking point and attacked our other dog nearly killing her. He was put down on 7/7

I really believe the pig incident was just the beginning to his tumor.
I still think of him as a great dog who just couldn't help himself in his last stages. He died in my arms and took most of me with him!
I am just thankful that the last weeks with him were not horrible like it could have been.
I hope this thread will die or be locked. Because I really cant handle reading more on what I was suppose to do about training, or what not to do or how bad rottweilers are.


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Does that not say love on his face?

From east to west a travlin gypsy found her prancing pony for now their hearts run as one...into the north
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post #66 of 69 Old 07-22-2010, 08:01 AM
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Very sorry for your loss. he truly was a handsome guy.Rotties are great dogs, dont let anyone tell you any different. And this is not me being biased. I dont, and have never owned a rotti, I just think they are really great dogs.

Brain tumors are terrible. And really change a dog (or human)

RIP Duke.
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post #67 of 69 Old 07-22-2010, 08:17 AM
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I do not think anyone said Rotties are bad dogs.

Very sorry for your loss.

My husband lost his heart dog (also a Rottie) to a brain tumor. Very sad.
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post #68 of 69 Old 07-23-2010, 01:01 AM
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It sounds like your dog is jelious of the pig. A long time ago we had a little female dog who would attack anything that I showed an interest in. It was hard to deal with. I showered her with attention and really tried to make her feel important. This seemed to help.

She wasn't very big though, smaller than the cats she attacked. I am afraid for your pig's sake I would try to find one of them another home before something bad happened.
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post #69 of 69 Old 07-23-2010, 01:27 AM
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I'm so sorry to hear about Duke. I too didn't look at the dates. I just lost a dog and know how it does just take a big piece of you. I'm sorry if I stirred up unpleasant memories. Please forgive me.
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