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building stalls, fencing and general noobie questions

This is a discussion on building stalls, fencing and general noobie questions within the Farm Forum forums, part of the Barns, Boarding, and Farms category
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    01-24-2012, 10:29 AM
  #21
Started
Thank you, MHF, for the pics. Your barn turned out great! Love the idea of tie-rings on every stall. It had not even occured to me until you posted that I don't have a convenient place to tie my horses. In the future, I'd like to buid a hitching post. I have enough projects going on right now, though. I also like the lights in every stall. Not sure what I will be able to do there, as the building is already wired. Your stalls are nice and roomy. I'm not even sure what size I am going to build my stalls yet. Idealy, I'd like to be able to put all three on a side wall. That'd leave me plenty of room to store hay and tack. If necessary, I will build along the back wall, though. How wide are your doors?

Thanks for the link and tips, Koolio. It sounds like the tape can start looking bad after awhile. I think I'd rather go with wire and the fluorescent plastic tape.

Thanks for posting, Northern. It doesn't sound like the conveyor belts are going to work for me in my situation. The reason I need flooring is because the floor is really smooth slick cement....it was actually built to be an auto-shop. I'm going to need it all the way to the entrance and so getting it getting wet will be an issue.

I do have a lumber mill in my area. If the dimensions aren't the same for the rough cut lumber and pressure treated lumber, won't it look kind of odd if I use both? The floor is cement, so I'm sure there will be plenty of times where I have to take up the stall mats and hose the floor. So I will probably have to use treated on the bottom, right?

Thanks Northern for adding what kind of wood I should use. There are so many different kinds to choose from. It helps a lot to narrow it down a bit.

Thanks for your help, Paint. I assumed that the lumber yards would be cheaper than Lowes or Home Depot. That is suprising. Thanks for the tips about the screws. Sounds like I will save myself a lot of time and headaches by investing in a good drill.
     
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    01-24-2012, 10:43 AM
  #22
Showing
Thanks Sandy. They've held up well, it's been 10 years or better since we built them. We also had the lumber milled, we marked the oak trees in our woods and they cut & milled for a percentage of lumber. The treated on the bottom we had to buy.

I will measure doors when I go out again, I know they are just a hair wider than my bobcat bucket Haha! No wheel barrow for this girl ;)
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    01-24-2012, 04:33 PM
  #23
Showing
I measured the doors (and got laughed at in the process - my farrier was quite amused when he walked in because I was measuring with a height tape) They are 4'3" wide.
     
    01-24-2012, 07:43 PM
  #24
Trained
Quote:
Originally Posted by sandy2u1    
Thanks for posting, Northern. It doesn't sound like the conveyor belts are going to work for me in my situation. The reason I need flooring is because the floor is really smooth slick cement....it was actually built to be an auto-shop. I'm going to need it all the way to the entrance and so getting it getting wet will be an issue.
You could also buy a stone finish for the floor that will rough it up and still be lots tough. Its like a paint almost. Use TSP to prepare the cement, then apply with a roller, I believe.

Quote:
I do have a lumber mill in my area. If the dimensions aren't the same for the rough cut lumber and pressure treated lumber, won't it look kind of odd if I use both? The floor is cement, so I'm sure there will be plenty of times where I have to take up the stall mats and hose the floor. So I will probably have to use treated on the bottom, right?
Treated on the bottom foot or two would last longer for sure. As for looking funny -- honestly, if looks are terribly important to you, then you've got to $pend. Personally, I don't think it will look funny because it will be consistent from one stall to the next. 1/2" is not going to be noticeable when you are looking down. Where you need to pay attention is if you have a hinge on the treated wood and another on the rough wood, you will have to shim the lower hinge. It's for things like that, that you have to pay attention to the dimensions.

Quote:
Thanks for your help, Paint. I assumed that the lumber yards would be cheaper than Lowes or Home Depot. That is suprising. Thanks for the tips about the screws. Sounds like I will save myself a lot of time and headaches by investing in a good drill.
In my area, the small name building supply stores and the lumber yards are cheaper on just about everything wood and the fasterners than Lowes and Home Depot. So shop around. Also, service and knowledge are your friend. You might get service from Lowes/HD, but you absolutely won't get knowledge.

Screws -- yes! Absolutely. Paint is VERY right about that. And spend the extra to get cordless Dewalt power tools if possible. It's well worth it. They do go on sale from time to time for great deals and that's where the franchise stores are your friend.
     
    01-25-2012, 02:19 AM
  #25
Started
MHF, done like a true horse woman, lol. I didn't mean to put you through extra trouble. I thought you might know off hand....but I also didn't realize your barn was built ten years ago. Sorry about that. Thank you for doing that for me.

Northern, good idea about the stone finish. I didn't know about that. That might be a great option for me, especially if I end up having to build against the back wall. That would leave me with a lot of floor to have to cover.

You are right, if all the stalls are the same, then it is all just going to blend. I don't even know why I brought that up, anyway. If I can build my horses safe and secure stalls, I will be ecstatic.

You also make an excellent point about finding more knowledgeable people at the lumber yards. Hmmm, this also has me thinking that I need to get out and do my price comparisons in person. You can't really have a conversation with people when you are looking online or calling them about their prices. I am certainly about to be making a large enough purchase to justify the time and gas.

Thank you very much for suggesting what kind of drill I get. I have never purchased a power tool in my life. I have used a drill a time or two, though. I'm thinking this one of those things that I may as well put some money towards and buy a really good one. Since all my stalls will be put together with screws, the drill will probably become my BFF sooner or later, lol. Dewalt drill is going on the list.

Thank you, Northern, for you very helpful post.
     
    01-25-2012, 08:58 AM
  #26
Showing
Quote:
Originally Posted by sandy2u1    
MHF, done like a true horse woman, lol. I didn't mean to put you through extra trouble. I thought you might know off hand....but I also didn't realize your barn was built ten years ago. Sorry about that. Thank you for doing that for me.
No extra trouble at all...I pretty much live in the barn lol! Between chores and horses to ride, I'm in and out all day long.

Fencing - you've gotten great advice there too. I've found the best deals at TSC too. We built new stud lots this past summer. I wanted them to be heavy duty fence and we lucked out on posts - we had some nasty weather (straightline wind/tornado activity) and a good number of telephone poles were sheared off. My hubby was there fixing the cable mainline along with the electric guys and made an offhand comment about the old poles. The utility guys delivered them to me free of charge. I ended up getting enough posts out of them to do both lots w/6 ft above and 4 ft in the ground - worked out fantastic! :)
     
    01-25-2012, 11:54 AM
  #27
Weanling
I will admit that I kind of skimmed alot of what was said, but someone said that visibility of an electric fence may be a slight issue, use old socks to tie to the wire.
For tools, my FAVORITE fencing tool is a very large pliers/wire cutter, then to have a smaller normal size pliers.

As for the cement, there was really good ideas, of which would have been awesome to have in my folks' barn, but all we have is a normal cement floor, our horses have done well with this, we make sure to put plenty of straw down in the stall, and sometimes in the alley for traction, or we use barn lime for traction.

You have a very fun project ahead of you good luck! Will need to see pics!!
Oh, here's the pic of the pliers I use.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg pliers.jpg (31.8 KB, 79 views)
     
    01-25-2012, 12:44 PM
  #28
Weanling
I would be careful about treated wood if your horse is a chewer. It's treated with arsenic (at least the green treated posts we bought were).

Our property has wood posts, about 6 foot posts 2 feet of which are buried in the ground so the fence is 4 feet high. It has three strands of smooth wire. We have an electric fence but I haven't needed to turn it on. They respect the area pretty well.
     
    01-26-2012, 01:40 AM
  #29
Started
My floor is the polished cement. Very slick. I don't feel that putting straw on the floor will help me. It could even make it more slippery, IDK. That cement floor is unforgiving. I'd rather keep my horse where he is than risk him slipping and breaking something.

Thank you for the suggestion on the pliers/wire cutters. I didn't even have fencing tools on my list, lol.

I will most certainly be sharing pics with y'all.

My horses respect electric fencing, also. I want to put some heat to it just in case, though. Most of my fencing will be t-posts. I will have to use some wooden post at corners and bends to get it tight, though.

Thank you all for the suggestions.
     

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