Help with a Pacey horse and trainer! - Page 3
   

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Help with a Pacey horse and trainer!

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  • Pacey to gait horse
  • Bit for pacey gaited horse

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    12-27-2013, 08:00 PM
  #21
Foal
I will throw my 2 cents in on bits. Single jointed snaffle bits are not made for every horse nor for every discipline. I avoid single jointed snaffles as much as possible just because of the nutcracker effect they can have.

Exactly...iMO a solid bit is much easier on the mouth b/c of direct back pressure on the gums. You just can't try to pull his head off while putting pressure and collecting him...where as the snaffle not only has pressure on gums it squeezes the actual jaw and the broken link digs up into the palette. And that's with any amount of pressure
     
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    12-28-2013, 04:27 AM
  #22
Weanling
I had a TWH that was a hard core pacer. She was lprogrammed pacer (but I beleive was a stacked Bick Lick at one time due to some suspicisous scaring and many former Big Lickers tend to be pacers once the stacks come off) Since this was her most comfortable/chosen gait (and she did not trot, rack, amble or RW even in liberty) I chose to work with this gait. The strug out pace is not comfortable to ride. I taught her to "jog" pace (pacing slow and rythymicly like a WP jog) very nice.]

Some ppl cannot tell the difference between a stepping pace and a rack. Some ppl cannot tell the difference between a slow rack and a run walk though the timing of foot falls are a bit different. One has a larger over reach (over stride) than the other. Did this teen actually ride this horse infront of you showing that this horse could actually perform these gaits and actually know the difference herself. I find that most rackers don't RW as well as they rack and vise versa. Some ppl don't even know the difference betwen a rack and running walk. Yes there is a difference.

If this horse performs other gaits at liberty then it very well may be the way he is traveling. Hollow backed, stiff neck, lots of tension (which could be rider related) and hind legs that tend to rail behind him instead of underneath him. Conformation plays a roll in this also. Long back, short upright neck, does he stand camped out or long in the back leg, high rump, underdeveloped haunches and the list continues.

If he is not hard cored program to pace then its either rider/train problems or conformational conditional problems.

One thing I will recommend is that you pick a gait and stick with it. You want him to rack then teach him to rack. Since he sounds like he is performing the stepping pace (aka broken pace) at times then his is going to be easier to train into a rack. Slowing him down is key. I train using a full cheek snaffle and various mouth peices depending on the horse's desire. Perfect the flat walk....use cavelleti, poles on the ground, hills and etc. Something that will get him to begin working his rear and reaching. Thus chainingg hoof flight patterns and conditioning the back. I long line over poles, speeding him/her up and then slowing them down but never breaking into a pace/trot or what have you. Walk walk walk, half halt, half halt etc. Progressing with speed little by little over time. Building up the rear and changing the pulling into the pushing. (ie pulling from the front into the pushing from the rear. Pacey horses will pull from the front and racking/ RW horses will push from the rear more though I have seen shotgun trained rackers pull from the front with thier heads up high and hollowed backs. Not pretty at all.) I only put a leveraged bit in the horse's mouth when they are getting more square and are ready for such.

Feet: yes having a well shod/trimmed horse plays a roll but it should not be a hsort cut to get a gait. I would get a Farrier that is experienced in trimming/shoeing gaited horses. Sometimes the tiniest change can make the largest difference. I have trained horses to rack and run walk with out shoes whith out weights and with out gimmicks.


I recommend an excellent book called "Training the Gaited Horse from the Trail to the Rail" by Gary Lane I love this book and his insights are so SANE. Look it up on Ebay or Amazon

Another book I recommend (though not as great as the above mentioined) is "Easy-Gaited Horses" by Lee Ziegler (Story publishing)

With out seeing how you are ridding your horse, watching him go and how he is conformed and what not, it is hard to me to give you concise advice. What works for one animal may not for another esp when it comes to bits and tack etc.
     
    12-28-2013, 04:35 AM
  #23
Weanling
Oh and for 2 more cents....I do not canter the animal untill I have it mastering the gait I want him in. In other words I don't canter untill his rack or runwalk is solid then I work on canter. Can't run before you walk. Pun intended. :)
     
    12-31-2013, 04:10 PM
  #24
Yearling
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trinity Ridge    
interesting. Thanks for replying.

I see the reasoning behind everything you said. Few things we differ in thought. But that's the way of the world. I'll mull and ponder everyting you said over.....

If you would...please expound on this statement: its in regards to a curb bit:



Im interested in a more indepth explanation. Thanks.
I think I mis-typed.

Substitute "snaffle" for "it" and I think it's right!

The gaited show ring is usually long straights with large, rounded curves. The field is often lots of curves with considerably less straight line travel. Snaffle bits, with their more direct action, allow better turning performance. They have less "brake" about them. Of course the rider who is skilled is also using leg and seat as well as hand. So excessive concentration on the hand means less effectiveness in the seat and leg.

We should also clarify that "snaffle" means "no leverage." It has nothing to do with mouthpiece design.

I try to follow the rule of "horses for courses." I also try and follow the rule of "tack for courses."

G.
     

Tags
gait, gaited horse, pace, pacing horse, twh

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