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What bit do you use on your gaited horse? A survey.

16K views 28 replies 23 participants last post by  Storybook Farm 
#1 ·
I got my horse and she was used to a long-shank swivel curb w/chain. I got that bit, but it seems a bit harsh. I'd like to ease up on her; she's no spitfire and I think she'd remain under good control. Thinking of a Pelham, currently, since it would still be a curb bit (with chain) and thus gentler than a snaffle, but not as harsh as a long-shank curb. Thoughts? What do you use?
 
#3 ·
I use an eggbutt french link snaffle.

Welcome to the Horse Forum :wave: and welcome back to horses.
I was away from horses for about 12 years which was just long enough for the many years of info and experience I had to become obsolete. :wink:
Bought myself a horse for the Holidays in late 2011.
 
#4 ·
Curbs aren't gentler than snaffles ;) Pelhams are quite a bit more powerful than snaffles are.

I ride a gaited mare, though she has the tendancy to trot rather than rack or pace (she can do both) and I don't discourage it, since she's just a ranch and lesson horse. I'm currently riding her in a full cheek, double jointed snaffle. She was in a twisted wire Wonder Bit gag when she came to us, but I really didn't like it and she was very hard mouthed, so we reschooled her and she's just fine in the full cheek now. I've also used this bit : Myler HBT Shank MB 03 on her when working with cattle and neck reining, just because she handles better when neck reining if she's in a bit designed FOR neck reining.
 
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#5 ·
I have a total of 22 bits, + or -, on my bit wall. What I use on any given horse depends on the job and the horse.

Youngsters generally start in the snaffle with either a Mullenmouth, French Link, or broken mouth. Most are part copper.

As the horse progresses we move to a Pelham with four reins. I like the Myler bits and favor the Comfort Mouthpiece. That gives a very fine combination of feel, communication, and control.

The most advanced horses work in the double bridle . I use an M1909 curb with an M1909 snaffle.

There is no "magic bit" for gaited horses. The bit chosen must reflect the needs of the job, the rider, and the horse (in that order).

G.
 
#6 ·
It depends. If she leans on your hands you may want to switch to a snaffle. All the S on the long shank does is give you more pull with less effort. The bit is never the problem, it is always the rider's hands. I prefer a long-shanked curb to a shorter shank. I also don't care for a Wonder Bit or any of the Mylar contraptions that pulls down on the poll. I keep wondering when some newbie is going to get the whole contraption stuck on the head of a panicky horse and all heXX breaks loose!
The longer shank enables my horse to break at the poll at the same time as I cue for a half-halt or a full halt, and I can use finger pressure instead of my arm.
It's the same with the chain. Only a horse that isn't listening will worry himself and hurt himself on a curb "chain." Many will do the same with a leather curb, except they will wear their skin raw, instead.
You must remember with a chain to turn it clockwise so that the links link smooth, and hook it so that you can fit 2 fingers between the back of the chin and the chain, and the adjustment is correct. ALSO, you should always unhook the chain and loosen up the leather curb before you unbridle. A green horse with a stuck bridle is an accident waiting to happen. Hope this helps. =D
 
#7 ·
Corporal,

I really agree with all you've said. My own experience was with riding Saddlebred PLEASURE horses in full bridles: long shank, curb chains (yes, I know about twisting them flat and the two-finger rule!) and a tiny snaffle, with two sets of reins.

My horse, Grace, isn't green; she's a finished horse. While some may disagree (and I am certainly in the novice class with gaited horses) I like the head carriage with the head down and a bit tucked, which is how she naturally goes now. As I'm getting to know Grace (and have finally figured out my seat and cues, thank the good Lord) I'm finding that she likes support from my hands; she likes being collected, and then having me tilt my pelvis back and put my feet further forward than I would for a hunter seat. Actually, the position is VERY like what I used to ride in a flat cutback saddle on my pleasure Saddlebred back in the day. One sets BACK. Not "chair seat" exactly; the feet are still under the knee, but the general feeling is of sitting on seat bones rather than pelvic bones. Anyways... if her curb bit isn't..."harsh" in my hands (which aren't horrible; I always had pretty good hands, I was told) then I might just stick with it.

Anyone else?
 
#8 ·
Welcome to the forum! 100% bitless here, so probably of no help - I live in a wilderness area, so have no one to judge my choice of tack (which would amuse many!) I have 2 registered mares, (granddaughters of world champions, no less!) and ride them both with English saddles, (love the light weight) with simple rope reins clipped to their halters!! They do marvelous and obey all cues/commands, and I can sense their comfort and willingness every time we ride - we three couldn't be a happier lot :)
* My Morgan is beautifully gaited.....
 
#9 ·
My OTSTB trotter who has a lovely rack is on a Pee Wee Bit due to his tendency to pull (which thankfully the Pee Wee stopped that) and he does have some damage to his left lip and bar from his pulling at the track in harsh bits so the Pee Wee has been the only bit I've found that he is relaxed in and doesn't grab.
 
#10 · (Edited)
I am strictly a trail rider. My "training" goes back to my grandad who raised Welsh/Morgans.

While the driving bit was different, back in The Old Days, all that was available to us was a short-shanked curb bit.

Regardless of whether I was trail riding a trotting horse or a gaited horse, I have always used a low port curb with swivel shanks (once I learned about swivel shanks), because low port bits are what I am used to.

Unless the horse just was not happy with a bit in its mouth, of which I have wasted a lot of money buying a gazillion different types of "recommended" bits.

Then I use a mechanical hackamore. My 27 yr old Arab and my 19 yr old TWH have both worn mechanical hackamores their entire lives; both Sellers told me that's what they used.

I tried those "recommended" bits on both horses and they were having none of it, so I've stuck with the hackamores.

The Arab was a lesson horse for children under 12 for several years and nobody ripped his head off with the hackamore.

My TWH is full of snotty attitude but he has never, in 16-1/2 years tried to run away in the hackamore. When we were doing a lot of riding, I rarely used the reins. I ride without saddle and he was just as happy with seat/leg cues.

Make sure your horse doesn't have a thick tongue or a low palette before you start experimenting with bits. If she happens to have either, that alone, will send you in search of an altogether different bit than what many of us might recommend:)

As far as head set? I trail ride - I let the horse set his head where it was born to be comfortable. Where they like their head when I ride them, is pretty much where that head is when they're gaiting at liberty in the pasture.

Unless I had the horse in my avatar in a parade - then I would tell the show off "git that head up Duke, people are looking at your handsome self" :)

My recommendation is whatever makes her happy and she listens:D:D
 
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#11 ·
I like a Myler comfort snaffle, if I use a bit. I have been very happy with riding halters on a lot of my horses. I don't use tie downs or spurs either. I have a nice relaxed horse that is not afraid of getting jabbed in the side or yanked in the mouth. Since they are not worried about pain, they seem to listen better and are willing to do what I ask.
 
#12 ·
I agree that the mechanics of the mouth, palette, and tongue are the main dictators of the type of bit or sans bit you go with. My OTSTB has a large and fleshy tongue with a low and sensitive palette (he was driven on the track in a plain driving snaffle but a crit davis overcheck which is quite harsh) so every bit in my barn was just too much bit for him. I also had to factor in the scarring left from his pulling at the track, which pretty much left me with the Pee Wee bit as a gentle bit that is thin and doesn't put pressure on his palette. He went from heavy on the reins (and locked on the left) to being very responsive to light cues.
 
#13 ·
I like the Myler 3 Ring Combination Bit with the comfort snaffle. The way it is designed you can ride your horse more off the nose or more off the bit, depending on your horse's temperament and behavior. The overall effect is to give the horse ample opportunity to respond to the rider's rein signals, in addition to dispersing the rein pressure over multiple pressure points rather than concentrating on the bars or tongue.
 
#14 ·
My Foxtrotter goes wonderfully in a Myler HBT shank bit with the #33 mouthpiece.

http://www.etackroom.com/images/bits/myler/level-3/89_20335.jpg

The mouthpiece is contoured and the large port gives tongue relief. My mare doesn't like tongue pressure and hates snaffles as well as anything without a port. Even other Mylers and the Imus and Robart style bits without a port.

Up until then I thought the port looked harsh but I was greatly mistaken! Myler recommends moving up to the #33 at the top of the horse's training because as the horse is coming along in training you can trust them with less and less tongue pressure. My mare isn't hardly the perfect trail horse but she loves this bit. I use it on my Mustang as well. :)
 
#15 ·
I ride 2 Rocky Mountain horses. I had a Brenda Imus bit several years ago and liked it very much until it started to fall apart :( There may have been an improvement in quality since then. I now use a Myler HBT shank with the comfort mouthpiece. It is classified as a level 2 bit. I ride my older Rocky in it. I have a Myler Lynn McKenzie HBG gag bit which is a level one. I use this on my younger Rocky who is still in training.
Myler bits are rated for training levels.
There are wonderfully informative videos at the end of this article I highly recommend them Julie Goodnight Natural Horsemanship / Horse Master TV Show
 
#17 ·
Saddles Tack Horse Supplies - ChickSaddlery.com Pee Wee Bit - Ultimate Training Bit


Here is a Pee Wee bit and I found a brand new one on eBay for $15 so there are deals out there. I got this bit originally because my OTSTB pulled really hard and it is a long ingrained habit and this bit got him off his face and my hands. It took maybe 5 or 6 rides to get him to relax and not expect pain but now he is a lot more relaxed undersaddle and is picking up that lovely rack with only the lightest of contact.
 
#18 ·
When I got my TWH last year, she was also being ridden in a long shank bit; I prefer not to use bits with any of my horses, so I began with lots of ground work with my mare, until she had a good understanding of what I wanted her to do, and so that she would learn to see me as a reliable leader; I then introduced her to a LightRider Bitless Bridle on the ground, so that she could become accustomed to the feel of it and learn to understand the cues; if you are interested in bitless riding, I really like the philosophy of Carlos Tabernaberri; "the only bit a horse needs is a bit of understanding"; he believes that no horse actually needs a bit, as long as you take the time to achieve a level of understanding, and respect between horse and rider' anyway, my TWH goes really well in her LightRider, and is very sensitive and responsive, even though she has some get up and go when that is requested of her; good luck with your new horse; Walkers are awesome!
 
#20 ·
Good point,

I've always ridden my Walker (and have seen others ride theirs) in a relatively long shanked bit, 4 to 8 inches, whether it be broken or a curb. I did recently switch my boy over to a Nurtural Bitless Bridle, and he does wonderfully in it. He will never be able to return to a snaffle because, unfornutely, he had a shanked bit on him way too early in life and the nerves in his mouth are dead :( Don't get me wrong, there is nothing wrong with a shank, if you know what you are doing!
 
#19 ·
We have a peruvian paso now. His previous owner used a snaffle with some leverage. I don't have any of those so I stuck a snaffle in his mouth and he goes fine.

I'd like to get him a bit with a roller since his tongue is always doing something, whether he has a bit in his mouth or not. He just licks everything and the activity doesn't stop with a bit.
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#21 ·
I ride all my walkers in a tom thumb type bit and they are very light and responsive I like the fact that you have the best of both worlds the lateral control of a snaffle and the vertical control at the pole you get from the short shanks. I use them on young and finished horses alike. All of this is just my personal preference and am sure other bits(and bitless gear) work just as well it comes down to comfort(yours and the horse's) and consistent training.
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#27 ·
In a bit, harshness is like beauty...it generally lies in the eye of the beholder.

(And, let's have clean terminology: snaffle bits do not have leverage; any bit with leverage is a curb.)

Sometimes, though, it's quite apparent. Bicycle chain mouthpieces, thin wire mouthpieces, chain-saw chain mouthpieces (yes, I've seen them used on mules). mouthpieces with intentionally roughed surfaces (think a farrier's rasp), etc. are examples of clearly harsh items.

The longer the shank on a curb bit the more powerful, and potentially painful for the horse, the bit is.

But myths prevail. "Thick is not harsh." Well, if it's so thick that it's too big for the horse's mouth then it's harsh. Conversely, thin is not harsh if it properly fits the horse's mouth. And in either case it's the hand that supplies the active power. So either can be harsh or soft depending upon how it's used.

The bit is a communication device. What do want to communicate? With a youngster you want to communicate basics so you ran use a bit that doesn't do much more that say "gee" or "haw" or "whoa." As the horse gains skill you can use a bit that allows more nuanced communication. When you get to upper levels of disciplines then you can see things like the double bridle or spade bit used effectively (and humanely).

Put another way, you can communicate with your horse via tin can telephone or high quality digital phone; which do you prefer? :)

G.
 
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