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My puppy is having puppies....

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  • Can dog hold off having puppies

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    11-08-2011, 08:21 PM
  #11
Yearling
It's a really long story as to why they were in reach of each other. I just recently moved and the dogs were here with the people I moved in with. When mom delivers, if everything doesn't go wrong ='( , we are going to keep a male and have the female fixed. We already have people wanting the pups so I'm not worried about what will happen to them once they are ready to go. They have homes. I cleared out my closet and put training pads and lots and lots of blankets down. All the supplies are there and ready to go as well. Thanks for the feedback guys. I know this never should have happened.
     
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    11-08-2011, 08:47 PM
  #12
Foal
I didnt read all the post so I might be repeating... but im a registered veterinarian tech. I mainly work in small animal now (dog/cat). Feed your momma puppy food only of a hight quality (science diet,Royal canin, Purina), she will need the extra fat storages for when she delivers and nurses (also will keep her from looking terribly skinny afterwards). Before delivering she will drop her temp to 94-96 degrees F usually 24 hours prior. (maybe slightly higher depending on the dog) Normal temp for a dog is 99-102 degrees. She will begin to nest etc. but the most important thing I can tell you and what we tell all of our clients is GIVE THEM THERE SPACE!, dogs can hold off there labor (cats too), and if she is in a noisy, busy area and feels stressed she can stop her labor. So give her a dark, quiet place and try to check on her every now and then. And I am sure momma will take good care of them but way to be prepared for milk replacer, rags, and that nose sucky thing we all hate...very nice! Another thing is if you to have to bottle feed any of the puppies check for cleft pallets (a hole in the roof of there mouth, can happen with inbreeding) this can cause aspiration issues in the lungs if they are not fed properly. Keep track of there weights every week they should be gaining several ounces a week. Ween them at 6-7 weeks(mom will usually take care of that) but it is a good idea to keep them with mom until 8-10 weeks as this is the time that they learn "social" skills. If you separate them to early they may become more antisocial with people and other dogs...which can lead to aggression, separation anxiety, and training issues. If you need to assist mom remove the "bags" from the pups and use umbilical tape, suture, or UNWAXED dental floss to tie off the umbilical cords approx. 1/2-1 inch from there belly. If you tie them to close they may herniate there organs. If she is strenuously contracting for more than an hour and not producing a pup you will need to be seen by a veterinarian. Im sure you know alot of this since you have delivered pups before but just figured I would cover the basics. good luck!
     
    11-08-2011, 08:52 PM
  #13
Green Broke
Quote:
Originally Posted by LuckyRVT    
Feed your momma puppy food only of a hight quality (science diet,Royal canin, Purina)
DO NOT FEED THOSE FOODS!! There NOT high quality! The first ingreediant should be MEAT! Not by product. Never feed dog food made with corn. It's a filler and it's not good for the dog.

Feed some thing like Taist of the wild.
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    11-08-2011, 08:56 PM
  #14
Green Broke
I have to agree with the foods. Taste of the wild, wellness, solid gold, all of these foods are much better. Even 4 health made for tractor supply.
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    11-08-2011, 08:56 PM
  #15
Yearling
Thanks for the reply lucky. Very helpful. I just made her her own dark closed off from everyone space in the closet. It's dark and I can still see her as it's right by my bed. I was wondering about the wax floss!!! I only have waxed floss so I better go get unwaxed =X I have sterilized medical scissors, aspirator, thermometer, clean towels etc on hand next to her spot. I'm worried about the weather. It gets down to 40 degrees here at night at the moment and my heating pad just broke. Should I get a space heater to put next to her so the pups aren't cold?
     
    11-08-2011, 08:58 PM
  #16
Yearling
As for the food...I feed purina one puppy. The first ingredient is real meat. I don't see where it said bi product anywhere on the bag. I already knew all that when I went food shopping for her.
     
    11-08-2011, 09:05 PM
  #17
Green Broke
Quote:
Originally Posted by redape49    
As for the food...I feed purina one puppy. The first ingredient is real meat. I don't see where it said bi product anywhere on the bag. I already knew all that when I went food shopping for her.
There are still fillers. Purina is not a good brand. One is beter that there other feeds but it's still crap that I wouldn't let any dog near.

On the heat question. You should probably get a heat lamp like what they use for baby chicks. Dogs arn't like people they really don't care about the light, as long as it's quite.
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    11-08-2011, 09:09 PM
  #18
Yearling
Aha good idea I have a heat lamp too cause I have snakes. Thanks =P
     
    11-08-2011, 09:11 PM
  #19
Foal
I have raised many litters. I agree with everything LuckyRVT said. It is normal for her to take all day to deliver a big litter. Probably about halfway through she will take a 4-5 hour rest. It is normal for it to take up to 2 hours in between puppies. If it takes longer, don't panic. As long as she's relaxed and not in pain, she's ok. However, if she is in pain or pushing for more than an hour without producing a puppy, that could signal trouble. Make sure you count the placentas as they are delivered. They may or may not come with the puppy. Make sure at the end of the whelping that you have counted a placenta for each puppy. If she retains one, she can get a serious uterine infection that could lead to death.

Lots of people say to not interfere with whelping. I, for one, assist every time. I raise English mastiffs and they are notorious for having trouble. I have one female that I have to help pull her puppies out every time. If you have to help pull one, make sure you pull down between the mother's legs toward her head.

I hope this helps, if you have any questions or trouble, let us know!
     
    11-08-2011, 09:13 PM
  #20
Foal
Food is all about preference and price point. Some clients can't afford wellness and solid gold (although I will agree I like those foods too) ESP when you feed large amounts. A heat lamp is perfect keep them very toasty! Just make sure yet can move away if they get to hot. :) I was mainly referring to a higher quality of food. Aka not kibbles n bits or ol Roy....I figured you all would shoot me if I listed all the "good" foods. There is always the option of feeding a raw diet too.
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