Is that where it should end up after we've grown out a new foot, or are you saying take it back to that spot next trim?
Next trim, so that over time, the hoof can become more balanced. Again I emphasis that precise measurements & such are only guides, as without more info, pref. even an xray to see exactly where P3 is, it's no more than an experienced 'guesstimate' but the sole pic with extra white lines shows what I'm basing it on.
Basically hooves should be balanced according to the 'centre of articulation', which is the centre of the distal end of the second phalanx. While we don't have xray eyes, it has been found that this point is consistently above mid-frog, approximately 3/4" back from the apex. Other 'landmarks' for this point are the widest part of the foot & the anterior end of the bar, or bar crack. One source of information onto studies on that that you can look into is Equine Lameness Prevention Organization
So... The middle horizontal line marks the COA. The line across the heel - around the middle of the 'dimple' of the central sulcus - is where the rearmost weightbearing point of the heels should(ultimately) be. The hoof should be balanced anterio-posterial 50% in front & behind the COA, which takes us to where the vertical line ends at the toe - where my black line has marked the breakover. The short horizontal line in front of the COA is the same length as from the centre to the black 'breakover' line on the inside.
I ask because but there is currently no clear view of the water line or white line, so we have no clue where the hoof wall actually hits those areas. We hit white and stopped. That's a hard crusty layer of sole on there and blocking real view of the foot. It's starting to chip off on his low foot and the white line is closer to the outer edge of the hoof.
Might have gotten the wrong idea, but if by 'we' you mean the professional trimmer, I'd like to think they have a lot more than just a clue' what they're seeing. While I *generally* think paring sole is unhelpful & unnecessary, agree with Trinity that a bit of excavating may be necessary, in order for you to correctly 'map' the foot & gauge balance. I suspect there'd be very little sole pared at worst anyway, for you to see what's what.
I suspect the 'hard crusty sole' may actually be lamellar material, which when the 'white line' is stretched can indeed be hard to distinguish from sole. The *true*(dermal) lamellar line is not close to the outer wall, but will be somewhere close to my black line. What you are taking for white line is likely the outer part of the laminae(epidermal) and what you're taking as sole may be 'lamellar wedge' - keratin that the dermal laminae have put out to fill the gap, which can be very hard to differentiate from sole material. That's one reason I think it is so important for the trimmer to understand balance in relation to the COA, or else they may be way off the mark.
Looking at the side-on pic, the white line is where I estimate to be parallel with the dorsal surface of P3 & the angle thfe toe wants to be on. I'm estimating that based on the hoof pastern axis and the top 2/3" or so of the hoof wall before it flares out, as this top part is likely to be still parallel or nearly.
I do see how having that eventual shape would eliminate the flare on the outside and better balance the hoof,
Having the hooves bevelled in that way now is what will help relieve the laminae of leverage, to allow the flares to eventually grow out. It depends on the reason for any medial-lateral imbalance I reckon, as to whether it will be 'cured' or will be a constant thing that you just have to manage.
Thanks for the advice, but this is a TB who is dead sound 1 week after pulling his shoes for the first time. I'm not touching a thing!!
I am walking him on every possible surface I can find to encourage the dead sole to wear away on it's own. Once I can see the hoof wall and white line, we'll make the adjustments on the next trim.
Of course it's important that the trimmer is confident of what they're doing before paring anything, so that's your call. While he may be 'dead sound'(oxymoron??
) & that foot at least doesn't look terrible at all, it doesn't look great either & I'd suspect 'dead sound' may not last & I'd be inclined therefore to protect his feet or stay off harsh terrain for now. It doesn't actually look to me(again, only based on one sole pic...) that there is much dead sole to be exfoliated anyway and you may well be looking at the 'white line' now & not recognising it.
Oh I totally agree with you about losing the soundness. That's why I'm leaving it there for now. His low foot is flat as a pancake and his high foot is so high, no dead sole is sloughing off on it's own. My evil plan is to get him moving around as much as possible to encourage new healthy growth and sole before those hard things come off on their own. I figure I have about a month. Maybe by then pancake foot will have started to develop a little concave to it.
IMO leaving too much hoof is not generally helpful & is often detrimental to soundness, even in the short term, so again I agree with Trinity, that I'd opt for removing the excess now & protecting his feet as necessary. - Short term gain, as with shoeing, can negatively effect long term soundness. I agree with you that generally speaking, the more movement the better, but protection is very important IMO - esp if the low foot is 'pancake flat', that indicates it's likely got precious little 'armour' beneath P3. I don't understand what you figure you have a month for? Generally I find that concavity doesn't *start* to develop in these sort of cases until *after* the flaring is relieved & the disconnected wall grown out. So on that note, the sooner you set him up to grow healthy walls, the sooner he'll start to develop healthier, thicker soles.