Hoof boots? - Page 2 - The Horse Forum

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post #11 of 53 Old 10-14-2013, 05:17 AM
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Measure just the hoof, widest point over the quarters to get the hoof width and from the toe to the buttress line (line between the end of the hoof wall/bars) to get the length. Each hoof needs to be measured, at least twice boots really need to fit well

All the hoof boot websites will have pictures of how to measure. It more accurate to measure in metric (mm)if you can. Easyboot site also has a consultation service to help you pick the right boots and pad combo

Don't allow for the pads in the measurement think of pads as inner doles in your own shoes, almost all boots will take thin pads (4-8mm), only some boot styles will work with the thick.

Without seeing pics and your thinking about thick pads look at the backcountry (in a half size bigger than measured) for higher use or the trail boot for light riding. Also do not get doomed pads, they are not at all suitable for unsound hooves

Good luck
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post #12 of 53 Old 10-14-2013, 06:09 AM
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Oh and yes some horses work better in different styles, the fit weight and bulkiness is different. Also different boots work for different owners.

The first time I put a full set if gloves on I'm sure it took over 45mins, now I get am the full set on in about 5!!

Like any new equipment introduce it to your horse, let them look/play with them, put them on and hand walk/lunge. He will properly high step and be a bit concerned as they feel strange and sounds different, however every horse I have put them on settles and moves much better within 10mins or so (most much faster!!)
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post #13 of 53 Old 10-14-2013, 11:51 AM Thread Starter
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Awesome. I will try to get at least some general pictures to see if anyone has specific advice. You have all been very helpful!
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post #14 of 53 Old 10-15-2013, 12:52 AM
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If your horse's foot is changing then you want to stick with a boot that has a little "wiggle room". The easyboot gloves and backcountry don't. They must fit almost exactly. Renegades and easyboot trails would give you that room and are very easy to put on. I wouldn't put shoes on if you can help it. LOW CARBS for the cushings. Fall is the worst time and lots of cushings horses will flare up due to the hormone changes.
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post #15 of 53 Old 10-15-2013, 02:39 AM
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Hi,

I'm another one for boots not shoes in this situation. Mostly due to peripheral loading. Especially for a laminitic horse, you don't want to further load hoof walls. Boots with pads & a good, short trim should alleviate the stress on the walls/laminae & allow the weakened hoof to grow out with no/minimal mechanical damage.

If you only need boots for riding, should be pretty easy. But if you need boots for rehab/living in, that gets trickier regarding most of the riding boots. Most aren't designed to live in, let alone be suitable for both. There is a lot of info on fit & choosing boots for different situations on the easycaredownunder site.
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post #16 of 53 Old 10-16-2013, 12:51 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you. At this point in time I'm just looking for something for riding. I suppose if he was having a bad day and I could throw them on that would be good too.
I spoke with my barn's farrier (not the horses farrier) the other day and he suggested basically taping pads on (with elasticon) may work and be cheaper. Obv if he is sore he will not be ridden hard.
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post #17 of 53 Old 10-16-2013, 03:24 PM
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If he's sore he shouldnt be riden at all a sore horse is a lame horse. My gelding is still sore when barefoot no protection I wouldnt dare ride him....his well being is far more important then riding him.
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post #18 of 53 Old 10-16-2013, 05:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yogiwick View Post
suggested basically taping pads on (with elasticon) may work and be cheaper. Obv if he is sore he will not be ridden hard.
If he is sore AT ALL he shouldn't be worked or ridden AT ALL! Unless you only ride very lightly on turf or such, taping pads on won't last. Well, not far anyway - I've experimented with taped on pads & they can last on a gravel or paved road at a walk for 50-100 metres, if you use a lot of tape.

Casting material will last longer - not that long, but maybe a few rides, and while it's designed to stay on for rehab purposes, you can put it on, make a cut at the heel or toe to take it off & use duct tape to hold it on next time.
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post #19 of 53 Old 10-16-2013, 06:01 PM
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First of all, you need to find a competent natural hoof trimmer and have them measure for the boots. There are so many people that have boots that were not the right size and they are stuck with them. You really should read up on natural hooves and educate yourself as well. There is a lot to learn but the more you know, the better for your horse. I would never put metal shoes on my horse. The frog needs to touch the ground which in turn sends blood up through the leg. Metal shoes just cause impact by not allowing the hoof to expand when it hits the ground. That being said, horses do not need grain at all. He should be on a low sugar hay and a pelleted supplement like Triple Crown 30. You could also try Focus HF which is a supplement for the hoof. Read Pete Ramey's books. Very informative. Renegades seem to be the easiest boots to put on but you have to talk to a professional about which boot will work best for your horse. Hope this helped. Good luck. It is very stressful to go through not having a sound horse.
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post #20 of 53 Old 10-16-2013, 09:49 PM Thread Starter
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Did not mean to imply we would ride him if he was sore at all. If sound we will ride if not we won't. I have a roll of elasticon to try. Guess I'll just wrap his feet and see how it holds up.

The shoes are a temporary thing, I'm asking about boots just to protect his feet. He is barefoot atm and will be kept barefoot as much as possible.
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