Love to see rads of these feet. Afraid little if any improvement IMO sorry. Still same issues basically. I drew on some of your pics to hopefully better explain.
**Firstly the usual 'disclaimer'... only going off a handful of pics doesn't give a really accurate view. Also the angles shown make it harder to get a good idea. Eg. in the original thread, the angle of front left pic which I included here makes it look clubbed too, but in a different shot, it looks long but low heeled. Not to mention different opinions & approaches to consider too. Therefore, take my advice very much as 'guesstimates' & food for thought. For more accurate critique, check out the link in my signature for hoof pic tips.
Green lines indicate where the hoof wall 'wants' to be. This estimate for toe walls is mostly going off the top half inch of growth and the pastern angles. Blue lines indicate approx how I'd trim to help facilitate growth of tightly connected walls & uncrushed heels. I think a huge factor of crushed forward heels are those long toes, allowing leverage to pull the heels forward too. Putting a slight 'bevel' on the heel, to bring the bearing surface back can help allow heels to relax back too, which can be especially helpful if heels are already at/near sole level so can't be actually 'lowered' more.
BUT once heels are crushed like that, I don't think that only backing up toes tends to achieve a lot on it's own. Far from heels of shoes providing 'support' for crushed heels, I think they perpetuate them by keeping constant pressure on them. I don't know that I've ever seen run under heels improved much with conventionally applied shoes. For that & other problems, I'd be inclined to keep the shoes off, at least until his feet are in much better shape. Particularly if you are to keep him shod, I would put that heel bevel on, to 'float' the heels & give them some relief from being crushed, and I would support the frogs, to allow them to take some of the pressure off the heel walls.
So... in the earlier pics, while it seems that the toes, particularly fronts are still too long/forward, the backs at least look like they're about backed up adequately.
Re the high heeled foot, I don't think it's a good move to even think about matching those feet, at very least without a lot more info & a good bodyworker. I'd use the sole plane as a guide for how much you may or may not be able to take the heels down, today, next trim, in the future... If you aim to keep the wall height at or very close to the level of the sole plane, if/when the heels can come down further, they'll 'let you know', by the sole at the seat of corns exfoliating & leaving more 'excess' heel wall.
Also regarding the clubbed foot, as the pedal bone is 'rotated' and the sole likely thin at the toe because of that confo, I'd be padding that sole to provide extra protection. The little red lines showing the sort of 'divot' above the hairline indicate that I think the hoof capsules have been pushed up higher in relation to the joints - or conventionally you could think of it as P3 'sinking' in the capsule.
Lastly the pink lines on the sole pic indicate the 'landmarks' that help assess balance in relation to the centre of articulation. The back line is approx where the heel buttresses 'should' be, the middle line is around level with the bar cracks, widest point of the foot and the most forward pink line is worked out by measuring the distance between the other two. That line is approx where the natural breakover of that particular hoof should be, so the green crescent line is approx where the toe 'should' end, with an additional quarter inch or so for leeway. About the best source of info I've found online for balance in this regard is at e-hoofcare.com
Given the very small lateral cartilages indicating very little digital cushions, I'd probably be inclined to pad those frogs to provide more support & protection all round.