*Firstly let me say I managed to miss the bit about it having been 3 weeks since those shoes before she became lame, until I read Patty's post. Therefore I wouldn't be quite
so upset with the farrier. Tho with possible distortion because of camera angle considered, I still think it's obvious in the first pic it's a bad job.
I am interested to know what exactly the vet did/said, as it sounds like you were saying you didn't know why the horse was lame & were getting xrays to try to find out, implying maybe that the vet didn't have much of a clue?? Can you post the rads?? To be able to compare them with the photos will help us to be more accurate in suggesting the specifics of trimming.
That is a typical posture. But wouldn't she have inflammation in the hooves if she was laminitic?
Laminitis means inflammation, but 'low grade' laminitis can be mild enough that it's not obvious, and chronic, long term problems with mechanical deformation(aka 'founder') doesn't necessarily mean inflammation is current & continual. So absence of a bounding pulse or great heat doesn't mean the horse hasn't been laminitic or isn't 'foundered'.
I know her heels want taking down, but they're virtually at sole level now. Or can I take the sole down in the heels too, between the bars and the hoof wall? I trimmed her regularly from July to October (until the unfortunate shod episode) and I kept her feet short with the toe rolled, but not bevelled,
'Rolled' & 'bevelled' mean the same thing, although 'mustang roll' does tend to just mean the outer wall of healthy feet. It needs to be done a ****load more on those hooves.
Respectfully, you need to learn a lot more about hoof function & form, as I'm sure you do already realise. Hooves like this are also a lot trickier than just a maintenance trim on healthy hooves. I would keep striving (I know, difficult, maybe impossible...) to find a good hoof care practitioner/farrier experienced in *successful* rehab to help her, even if that means travelling, if at all possible. Study Equine Lameness Prevention Organization
for some good guidelines on where/how to 'back up' those feet.
Re heels, I'd be mostly concentrating on toes to start with, and you may find with that the heels change a bit & become easier to 'read' on their own. For now I'd probably just 'bevel' them so that the ground surface is on the right angle, according to what your rads show of P3. Can't tell much from those pics, but it does appear likely there is a bit of dead sole in the heel corners of the left fore, definitely a fair bit in the right fore. ***Looks like that one 'needs' to be a tad higher heeled too though & I'd also want a bodyworker to check out the horse before considering changing that. Live sole is the limit of where you should trim to - if that far - on the ground surface, but dead sole can be removed, at least to give you a better idea of how far you can/should go.
What should I do to the mulelet's feet? Rasp all round to keep them short and the sole on the ground?
Keeping walls close to sole level all round is the general rule, but again, find a professional if at all possible and do more study, as you want to set him up for a long, sound life & it's easy to get it wrong, if you don't at very least, understand the principles. *Also remember babies have soft, easily damaged bones & joints, so no over flexing, fighting or forcing it - I'd first concentrate on his behaviour & desensitising him to it all before worrying too much about the job.
One last question
See how the hoof wall slopes inwards at her heels on the right (superlame) foot?
That's just the more contracted one. That's the foot that she habitually has back(or had, when she could load her toes), with the left one forward, so less load on her right heels have allowed them to grow higher & be weaker.
Now for the pics. I've drawn on a few of them. **Firstly the disclaimer
that this is just to give you a rough idea, because working from only a few photos isn't good enough for accuracy, pics may give false ideas, etc. Not to mention, others may have different ideas, so it's important to understand the principles governing different approaches, to better decide the pros & cons of different opinions.
So... Green lines show approximately the dorsal angle of P3 - you will be able to be more accurate as you have the rads. This is the angle the dorsal wall should
be, if it were well attached. You can see the very top of the hoof wall is at or close to this angle. Blue lines show approximately where/how I'd back up/bevel the walls. Also notice the 'heel bevel' - look at your xrays too, with vets help, to work out the distal(ground) surface of P3 & make ground surface of heels approx 3-5 degrees from ground parallel.
On the sole pics, the red lines give you an idea of balance, so how far back the toes should come - e-hoofcare will give you the why's & wherefores of those proportions. I would put a very strong bevel on the walls from at or close to the blue crescent, without rasping anything off the ground surface, in the front half of the feet at least. The RF sole pic shows that, even if it is deemed the heels of that hoof should stay that high, the quarters, between those lines should still be tapered down from the heels to near/at sole level.