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Trimming your our horse's hooves.

14K views 68 replies 21 participants last post by  Captain Evil 
#1 ·
I was wondering if it is possible to learn and/or to buy tools to trim your own horses hooves itstead of have the farrier come every 6 or so weeks to do it. i know that if something was really wrong i would call the farrier, but i just mean for regular trimmings.
 
#2 ·
Yes, of course & many do it. Many trimmers also started out that way - trimming our own.:wink: I actually think it's an important skill for owners to have, regardless of whether they want to take on the job themselves or not. Having the knowledge will give you a much better idea what's happening & what's needed with your horse's feet in any situation, including having a bit of an idea whether your 'expert' of choice is any good or not. Having the skill to do the job ensures that you can perform 'first aid' if your farrier is unavailable or such.

I advise you learn the theory & principles behind hoof care & healthy hooves first & foremost. I believe there are no hard & fast 'rules' in trimming, only principles & guidelines, so you need to understand 'what lies beneath' in order to know the whats, whens, whys & why nots.

I would also strongly advise at least a few hands on lessons &/or a workshop at least, before you attempt to do the job yourself. Understanding the theory is important, but it won't give you an 'eye' for what you're doing or help you use your tools most effectively.

After doing all that, you're ready to go.... BUT I would still keep your farrier/trimmer in your 'back pocket' and perhaps the first couple of trims you do, pay him to come supervise, & then still come regularly for a while to check on your work and keep you on the right track. I personally like to allow the owner to do the interim 'brush up' trims & keep the regular schedule to begin with, then it just becomes longer between my visits as they get good at it, until they're only calling me occasionally for a check up, or if/when something goes wrong.

Regarding 'something goes wrong', I think that takes a lot more knoweldge & experience than just maintenance trimming, so if your horse has seedy toe, regular abscesses, has foundered, cracks, etc, I think it's really best to keep regular appointments with a good farrier/trimmer, even once you're skilled at maintenance.

Check out my signature links. I think hoofrehab.com is one great & comprehensive site to learn from and I recommend Pete's DVD set 'Under The Horse' for people to get a good grounding in how to trim and the other factors that are important for hoof health, such as diet & environment.
 
#3 ·
Trimming a horse is certainly something that many people are capable of learning. That said, there is a downside to consider.

Professional farriers, for the most part, build their business around steady, repeat customers. Those same farriers will invest hundreds of hours in initial training and thousands of dollars in equipment and inventory. The better ones will continue investing in education, inventory and equipment as their skills, knowledge and customer base grows.

The difficulty with trimming your own is that you may find it difficult to acquire quality farrier service should your horse present needs beyond your ability. The "one-off" type customer falls to the bottom of the priority list as compared to those on a farrier's regular schedule.

Trims are the "bread & butter" for the working farrier. While laborious and less technical than shoeing, trims earn the farrier a higher hourly wage. This net average earnings keeps the total owner cost lower. Without a regular customer base and the value that trimming adds to the annual bottom line, shoeing a horse would be cost prohibitive for most owners that need that service.

Aside from the educational and startup business overhead costs, scheduling is a significant business model difference between the veterinarian and the farrier. The vet operates a bit like the McDonalds drive-thru. Customers usually call on short notice to schedule an appointment and the vet provides service on a first come, first served basis. While some vets are booked for any given day, they often have "slots" available and "sell" those slots as the calls come in. This business model means they have to charge a lot more (as compared to farriers) to sustain their business. Those higher prices offset the down time when the phone isn't ringing. It's also a reason why there are usually fewer vets in a given locale than farriers. The customer base isn't large enough to keep the "drive-thru" busy if there are too many vets. Farriers earn considerably less per hour than the vet (and justifiably so), so they need to know their day is booked well in advance.

Compare it to your own job. How might your situation change if your 8 hour work day suddenly became "ad-hoc". You never know from one day to the next if your boss is going to pay you for any part of that day or if he'll need you at all. If there are gaps in that work day, you're going to need to earn more dollars per hour (or visit) to sustain your business and your livelihood. This is, in part why independent businessmen from most trades appear to get a much higher hourly wage than those working for the private sector. Unlike the public/private employee, that 40 hour paycheck isn't always there. The hourly rate has to reflect that variation in down time.

Farriers are different than most tradesman in this respect due the repeat nature of their business. That 6 to 8 week routine schedule not only best meets the needs of the horse but also keeps professional farriers in business and able to provide service at a cost that most owners can manage. Disrupt that regular schedule and you change the business model. Costs across the board would have to rise and the number of farriers per given area would decrease. Service availability to the "Whenever I need you, I'll call you" type customers becomes sketchy at best and much more expensive.

This is at least one of the problems that professional farriers have with the self-taught trimmer crowd. These folks typically have much less invested in training and business costs yet are cutting in on the higher paying, technically easier part of the total farrier business. The result is less reason for farriers to make that larger investment in the more difficult and costly aspect of providing complete service to horse owners as a reasonable cost. Trims provide the average farrier with about 40% of his annual income. Take that away and guess what happens to the price of the remaining 60% of the work provided and the number of practitioners trained to provide that service.

I once asserted on this website that the barefoot trimmer crowd is a cancer on the trade. This post better explains that phenomena. As the trimmer crowd increases, cutting into the professional farriers "bread and butter", the number of good farriers capable of providing full service must necessarily decrease and prices must rise. However, we really don't see this in most areas. Prices are generally holding steady. What we do see are people entering the field as "full service farriers" that have not made the training and equipment investment because the prices don't warrant that investment. Instead, you end up with the backyard hacks that are just hanging iron. The result is a growth in the "all natural" crowd that can't meet every horses needs and the poorly trained "bucket shoer" that can't earn enough money to make a go of a full time business that pays enough to warrant serious investment in better training. In other words, the quality offering and service availability of the entire trade is diminished.

It's the same business logic that explains why veterinarians have a problem with lay dentists. It's also why so many professional trades require licensing. It's not just to assure minimal competency. It's also to protect and assure the quality and continuing availability of a service.

Here's the best example I can give you.

Let's say your horse comes up lame and needs the services of a professional farrier. You find one, he's normally booked but fortunately has one opening for tomorrow and agrees to meet you in the afternoon. The next morning, one of his long time customers at a large account calls to share that her horse pulled a shoe. She needs that shoe put back on and the horse made ready for a show. The only time the farrier has available for the week is the afternoon slot he promised to you.

Guess who is probably going to get their horse taken care and who is going to be left waiting at the gate? While it may seem unethical and unfair to you, that farrier has to protect his business interests. He knows that you are a "drive-up" client that he may or may not ever hear from again. At best, he might call you and try to get out at the end of the day. At worst, he just won't show up or even bother calling.

While just about anyone can learn the basics of trimming their own horse, it's important to factor in long term service needs, availability, quality and cost. Should your service needs exceed your skill, finding a competent, professional farrier may prove a very frustrating and very expensive experience. That presumes you can find a competent farrier willing to come out at all.

One of the more common adages shared among farriers and vets (albeit seldom heard by customers) is... "it's not my job to subsidize your hobby". While some customers may take offense to such a notion, make no mistake, horses are a luxury, an expensive hobby and frankly, not for everyone.

It is both fair and reasonable to ask, if saving a few hundred bucks per year is financially so important to your ability to manage the needs of a horse, should you really be owning one at all?

If an owner finds themselves choosing between paying the farrier bill and buying groceries, the answer is a definitive no.

Cheers,
Mark
 
#26 ·
<snip>One of the more common adages shared among farriers and vets (albeit seldom heard by customers) is... "it's not my job to subsidize your hobby". While some customers may take offense to such a notion, make no mistake, horses are a luxury, an expensive hobby and frankly, not for everyone. <snip>

Cheers,
Mark

When there aren't any decent "farriers" around, you do what you have to. And when asking for help learning, getting your "talk" really bites.
 
#4 ·
I love having a good vet and a good farrier for my horses. Knowing I can depend on them means a lot. However, I am thinking that I need to learn how to maintain the trim in between visits. My farrier comes every five weeks or so, but my Percheron has a HUGE crack in his hind hoof that he had when we first bought him some seven or eight years ago. His previous owner said he had had the crack as long as she owned him (four years) and her farrier told her he would always have it.

At this point, I think the crack is finally growing out, but then, it splits up again. My farrier puts a "mustang roll" on his toe to ease the pressure on the toe, but after five weeks, perhaps it just gets too long. I don't want to mess anything up, and his hooves are hard as iron, but if I got a grinder and learned how to use it, maybe we could get rid of this cursed crack.
 
#5 ·
Captain, assuming the horse is being trimmed appropriately to deal with the crack, possibly it's infection that's not being treated effectively, which can be eating away at healthy tissue as fast as your horse can grow it, perpetuating the crack.
 
#6 ·
Hmmm, so, my farrier is an advocate of Jamie Jackson and Pete Ramsey, and only does trims. I think he actually took some sort of oath not to use shoes, and if he does he gets booted out of his professional organization.

Things he has recommended for healing this crack are apple cider vinegar and water mixed 50/50 and applied to the hoof, and something called "ToDay" which is a treatment for mastitis, I think, in cows. It comes in small tubes, and I shoot it into the crack. It is pricy, but one tube does a hoof twice for two days. At one point I was also mixing Bacitracine and tea tree oil and applying it to his hoof crack.

He recently punctured the bulb of his hoof, so I've been soaking it in Epsom salts, apple cider vinegar and water twice a day and then applying the ToDay. His turnout is soft and fairly wet, and I just ordered some Keratex Hoof Hardener and a medicine boot.

What do you guys think of this? Any suggestions or advice?
 
#8 ·
Things he has recommended for healing this crack are apple cider vinegar and water mixed 50/50 and applied to the hoof, and something called "ToDay" which is a treatment for mastitis, I think, in cows. It comes in small tubes, and I shoot it into the crack. It is pricy, but one tube does a hoof twice for two days. At one point I was also mixing Bacitracine and tea tree oil and applying it to his hoof crack.
Yeah, it seems there are a wide range of bugs that cause 'seedy toe' and thrush, and there doesn't appear to be anything short of strong chemicals that is an across the board effective treatment. ACV & such can be very effective sometimes & useless at others IME. I've heard good reports about the effectiveness of the mastitis ointment, but haven't tried it, having found cheaper options effective generally. Don't know what the Bacitracine is but t-tree is one thing I've found to be pretty broad spectrum. IMO heavy chemicals can be OK when necessary too, so long as they're not getting onto live tissue.

Without seeing & exploring the crack though, it's impossible to say whether topical applications of anything would be effective enough, as the infection can be deep & enclosed. But I'd guess if you've been treating this way for more than a few months without obvious improvement, (tho wet environs don't help matters either) I'm guessing it's not effective enough. I would be soaking the foot regularly, in something like strong salt & copper, and then applying the topical, and it may also need resecting(IMO often does). If the crack/resect goes up high, I'd also consider bracing across the crack.

His turnout is soft and fairly wet, and I just ordered some Keratex Hoof Hardener and a medicine boot.
I presume the 'medecine boot' is a soaking boot? That should help you treat it more effectively. I don't do the Keratex, but if possible, try to give him a bit of dry ground at least, such as putting gravel down in his hangout areas or such.
 
#7 ·
I'm one of those people who trims her own horses. I think it's a good thing to learn, but honestly I think most folks would find it too much work. It's well worth the money you pay a trimmer to do it for you.
I started trimming my own, because I couldn't find a decent trimmer after my normal trimmer was hurt and retired.
I now have a new regular barefoot trimmer. One of the few who have actually been to school for it. I'm fortunate because there are 2 or 3 horses in our area he does, and he will usually work me in when he's out here. He is really knows his stuff, and I just feel more comfortable having him look at my horses every few months.
 
#9 ·
I will try and get some pictures of his hooves using the techniques outlines in the link you guys provided.

Ahab has some dry areas, and two dry 12x12 stalls that are always open. His turnout is pretty crappy - mostly woods - but now I see posts about Pasture Paradise, and I think I could make a pretty good area for him using those ideas. I'm pretty excited about it, but I will need to gather some $$$$ for footing and a bit of drainage.

I'm not sure, but I think I see some solid hoof wall behind part of his crack. I need to get some close ups posted to see what people can make of it.

Oh, and yes, the boot is a soaking boot.
 
#11 ·
gonna have to agree with Mark, go back and read your own posts, Even if the guy you are using is the most professional educated person in the world, Come on now 7 YEARS ! Time for a change. Many draft breeds simply need shoes. All the wishful thinking in the world cant change that. Generations of selective breeding for strength and size has created an animals who's evolution of feet hasnt kept up. Even if I am clueless and Mark is wrong , 7 YEARS ! time for a different treatment method.
 
#12 ·
I have to agree with Mark here as well. I DID learn how to trim myself (books, videos, help from couple farriers and friends who trim themselves, intensive class in university by prof farrier with hands on). However there are lots of things to consider, in particularly I found correct angle + balance to be the hardest part to achieve. Sure, I have no problem with trimming pasture puff and I do touch-ups regularly on my own horses, but with my horses (that do ring work and most likely jumping soon) I'd much rather be sure they are done correctly and I won't have problems in long run.

P.S. Plus, yes, when there is an emergency it's hard (if possible at all) to get a good farrier out that you don't use on regular basis. Been there myself...
 
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#18 ·
yet he seemed really pleased with his work.
I'm sure it's not what you want to hear, but after shaking my head at the rest, that bit made me giggle!

Be interested to see the pics.
 
#19 ·
Capt. I can totally relate. There are definitely a lot of crappy trimmers and farriers out there. I had the same problem. Take pictures to document his progress. You should see some difference after a couple trims.
Now, let's hear about those big lick horses.
 
#21 · (Edited)
I'm sorry, I haven't taken the time to read through everyone's posts, but here is my experience with trimming;

I've owned my mare since she was one, and she's had the same farrier since. I really love our farrier, he is firm, yet understanding with the horses, makes a very balanced hoof, and finishes his job by always making the hoof look very tidy. Not to mention, he is the go-to guy for one of the best local vets, so you know he has to be decent! :wink:

When she was two, I really started getting interested in alternatives to shoeing. As I was just starting to lead her on the trails, I noticed that her feet were chipping little bits at a time; hence, I googled trimming and maintenance between trims. I studied hoof angles, frogs, and whatever else you can imagine about horse hooves. Then I brought up the idea of rounding the edges to our farrier, and he really recommended that I take a rasp between trims to help keep the edges from chipping.

For about a year, I did this routinely. Still gobbling up information meanwhile, and I finally decided that I wanted to try trimming her feet. Terrified, I took the rasp and 'had at it'. Well, it wasn't all that bad, the farrier was out soon after to help critique me. For several months we went back and forth, me doing a trim and them him. As my comfort grew I started making the time in between his visits longer and longer. Now, 4yrs later, I plan to have him out 1-2times this year.

He has been very supportive and seems to think that it's wonderful that I trim my mare's own feet. Of course, when he does come out nowadays, he gets a bit of a tip or a hat, just something as a thanks, because I now he didn't have to be that AWESOME about the whole thing.

I now enjoy taking care of my horses' feet. I know how she moves, and I genuinely care about her. To keep them short and in good condition, I trim them about every three weeks. And, to this day I am always learning. My mom must think I have a hoof fetish, because I always have screens of hoof info and pictures on my computer!

Long story short, I do not think it is something you can just jump into; however, talk to you farrier and ask if he could show you how to do little touch ups in between. If you're serious about learning, then maybe a year or two down the road you will be trimming your horses own feet. If it is the money concern though, I do not recommend it. you have to be invested and actually want to help you're horses, not just try to save a buck!
 
#22 ·
I'm copying this from Wikipedia.

History of the "Big Lick"
During the late 1940s and early 1950s, when Walking Horses enjoyed a surge of widespread popularity with the general public, exaggerated front leg action, especially at the running walk, drew spectators to horse shows and helped increase the popularity of the breed. This action was also rewarded by judges. This began the rage for "big lick" movement. While "lite shod" horses with naturally good movement could comfortably perform this crowd-pleasing gait at the time, it took both natural ability and considerable time to properly train and condition the horse.
Some individuals, wishing to produce similar movement in less-talented horses or in less time, borrowed practices used by other breeds to enhance movement. This included action devices such as weighted shoes, "stacks" (stacked pads), and the use of weighted chains around the pasterns, all of which, within certain limits, were allowed.
As these methods produced horses that won in the show ring, and as ever-higher and more dramatic action was rewarded by the judges, some trainers turned to less savory methods to produce high action in a hurry. These methods including excessively heavy weighted chains, use of tacks deliberately placed under the shoe into the "white line," or quick, of the hoof, trimming the sole of the hoof to the point that it bleeds or is bruised, increasing the weight of the stacked pads by driving in a large number of concealed nails and the controversial practice of "soring," which is the application of a caustic chemical agent to the pastern of the front legs to cause pain when the chains bang against the pastern with every step. The outcome of these practices is so much pain in the horse's front hooves that the horse snatches its feet off the ground as fast as possible in an attempt to alleviate the pain. Correspondingly, the horse steps under itself as far as possible with its hind legs in order to relieve the forelegs of weight. This results in the "squatting" body outline (hindquarters extremely lowered, forelegs flung very high) typical of the "big lick" horse. Such abuses are illegal under the Horse Protection Act, but are still practised.
 
#23 ·
I do have a Natural Trimmer, and have used him for a year now. My 15 yr old mare was lame on her front when I got her and after 3 visits from him she was completely sound and still is. Another friend had a Morgan mare that had a hair line crack in her front hoof since she had ever owned the horse 9+ yrs. She started using "our" farrier and no more crack after 4 trims.

While I would happily shoe a horse that needs it and find a certified farrier to do it, I dont have that need. I do like in Oklahoma there are several farrier schools and I have learned whih ones to avoid students from and which ones put out knowledgable farriers.

Mark- If I lived anywhere near you I would be chomping at the bit to get on your client list! But my horses needs would most likely be different then too.
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#24 ·
Well, I trim my mare's feet out of pure necessity - she kicks at farriers. I would dearly love to just return to watching someone else do it. My horses have been barefoot for years now - but always professionally trimmed prior. But, in a way I am thankful for being "forced" to study and read....its a fascinating area of study. It is shocking how many differences of opinions there are - when one considers that the horse has been domesticated for thousands of years!

Anyway, I have my farrier "check" my work. In fact, I would currently like a "check up", but she isn't available right now - not b/c she has other customers that take presidence over "self trimmers", but b/c she is out of town.

As far as self trimmers being any threat to the profession, I look at it a bit differently than Mark above. When autos first became common, some of those that produced just buggy whips went out of business - some did not b/c they changed their products to meet the "changing times" - and continued to make buggy whips, too.
 
#25 · (Edited)
Lets look at why I trim. Ive said it before so ill say it again. After years of struggling to get farriers to show up despite being paid well and on time, tipped and taken care of on a regular basis..I got lamed horses, deep sulcus thrush being called normal and no big deal, horses being quicked on every foot, the best farrier in the area starting off awesome, shoeing every 5/6 weeks as needed and the quality STILL going downhill along with a 20K andalusians hoof health as well as his ability to show up and return calls for an easy job with guarenteed big paychecks...well...seems there is a spot to fill.

Owners want quality hoof care (sometimes just ANY hoof care at all would be nice eh?) and sorry to say it ISNT available in many places. When you cant get care, no matter how good of a client you try to be or the level of care just flat out sucks, you look for options. Sometimes you just take the best of the worst because you dont have a choice...unless you learn to do it yourself. Its not like you can just NOT trim them when a farrier wont show up or all of them in your area suck right?

Ever wonder WHY the barefoot movement is taking such a strong hold? If it was just some hardcore naturalists, well, it would stay in that realm and not go very far. It grows because there is a need out there that is not being filled with quality work from good farriers no matter the cost in many many many areas. People are trying to fill a need and basic (and even some corrective) trimming is easy for people who want to learn, apply themselves in a good program and show up to do the work. Sure some of them suck but some of them are just as good also and filling a real need. What is needed is a centralized certifications course to practice for trimmers also that isnt just some made up thing.

Ive started delving past simply trimming alone now realizing how limiting it is in some cases and that boots have limitations, but I do not want to deal with metal shoes, forge work and the costs that come with it. Ill let some other person fill that role and get that paycheck. It isnt for me. If you dont like my choices? Oh well I guess. Good thing its a free country where we can make our own choices as we need to.
 
#27 ·
I agree that having a great farrier is worth their weight in gold. I am lucky enough to have a great farrier who used to work on the R.C.M.P. horses in the area. He is semiretired and is a great resource for me. He has shown me a lot as I like to understand as much as I can about my horses and their care. To that end, I wouldn't do the shoeing on my own. My BO has helped with that in an emergency until our farrier can come out. I only keep their feet free of burs and try to maintain the shape he has kept them in, in between trims. Thanks for all the great info on this thread.
 
#28 · (Edited)
#30 ·
I finally got some pictures of my Percheron, Ahab's hoof crack. It took me three tries and they are still crummy. Hard to hold that huge hoof AND a camera! My husband helped with one picture, so the hairy arms in one picture aren't mine --- just wanted to make that clear.
Captain, what are your expectations/goals/hopes regarding the damage in this horse's hoof?

What have attending vets/farriers suggested can/cannot be done with this hoof?

Cheers,
Mark
 
#29 ·
Hi,

I'd be inclined to keep his toe right back, starting a strong bevel somewhere in the vacinity of the green line. Did the farrier open up the length of it, or is that the way it grows? Thinking latter. I'd probably think about opening it up a bit more at least, to ensure I could treat any infection and think about putting a brace across it.
 

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#32 ·
This is the sixth time I have tried to reply to this post, but I keep n having to get back to work and I get logged out. Look for eagles, drive the boat, talk about harbor porpoise. My boss is getting out of control! So I'll be brief...

Loosie: I wondered to, if keeping his toes wicked short around that crack would help it to heal. It has not been opened up: that is how it has been since I've owned him, except that I think it is shallower. Only about an inch doesn't habe visible wall behind it.

Mark: I want this hoof to be sound and healthy! Ahab may not be anything like a true riding horse, but I would like to do soome trail riding with him, at least. But I want this crack gone!

And finally, he has never been unsound on this foot, except for two days a week or so ago when he stepped on a piece of glass. But some epsom salt soaks and antibiotics cleared it right up.


His previous owner said he had never been unsound for her either. I read somewhere that it is considered a typical heavy horse crack, possibly caused by starting heavy loads. He was used as a cart horse and such as a young horse, but I don't believe he did any heavy pulling. It is popular around here though, so maybe he did.
 
#34 ·
hooves

This is the sixth time I have tried to reply to this post, but I keep n having to get back to work and I get logged out. Look for eagles, drive the boat, talk about harbor porpoise. My boss is getting out of control! So I'll be brief...

Loosie: I wondered to, if keeping his toes wicked short around that crack would help it to heal. It has not been opened up: that is how it has been since I've owned him, except that I think it is shallower. Only about an inch doesn't habe visible wall behind it.

Mark: I want this hoof to be sound and healthy! Ahab may not be anything like a true riding horse, but I would like to do soome trail riding with him, at least. But I want this crack gone!

And finally, he has never been unsound on this foot, except for two days a week or so ago when he stepped on a piece of glass. But some epsom salt soaks and antibiotics cleared it right up.


His previous owner said he had never been unsound for her either. I read somewhere that it is considered a typical heavy horse crack, possibly caused by starting heavy loads. He was used as a cart horse and such as a young horse, but I don't believe he did any heavy pulling. It is popular around here though, so maybe he did.
Percherons like other large footed horses are prone to cracks - maybe why when they are in work they are historically almost always shod. I have a mare that is half clydesdale half arab, she would pass as a gypsy cob but I know how shes bred and also know that a lot of the UK ones are bred in a similar way - thats another rant!!! Anyway - she is the one of my lot who is going to get a crack in her foot as soon as the weather gets too dry or she gets worked on stony ground and yet her feet appear healthy - they are healthy, its just the way she's made. I could never have her anything but shod - and I have tried as since we came to the US she has her shoes off in the winter but as soon as we hit the trails they are back on and any small cracks soon disapear.
The Romans used leather pads strapped onto their horses feet to protect them, a horse shoe with nails was found in 5th century AD tomb in Europe and they were probably using small draft type animals so nothing new about shoeing, pretty sure they didn't come up with the idea because they had nothing better to do. barefoot works for some horses but not for them all, you do whats best for the one you have. I have a mare that I rode barefoot for 8 years but as soon as I moved to an area that had sharp gritty stuff on the roads she got a couple of bad abcesses and on went the shoes.
 
#40 ·
I don't understand how further loading the walls with rim shoes is supposed to relieve the wall crack. IME holding the distal surface together by way of a shoe does nothing to hold the crack together further up & it can actually put it under further pressure. Therefore I wouldn't be inclined to conventionally shoe this foot until such time as the crack has grown out - assuming it can. I agree rads would be helpful, to better understand the extent of damage.
 
#41 ·
I am back at work, and so finally have time to post...

There is a lot of really interesting information coming on this thread, and some fascinating links... I have tried to read them all, and have gone off on some interesting Google tangents.

Nutrition keeps coming up, but I think Ahab is doing fine in this regard, He is on a high fat, low carb, low sugar diet

www.draftresource.com/EPSM/Draft_EPSM_Diets.html

based on Omegatin feed (20% fat) fed at the minimum reommended rate of 3 pounds a day. I have an automatic feeder that gives him one pound, and the rest is fed morning and night with added suppliments and flax & black oil sunflower seeds and oil to keep the fat levels enough for 1500 pounds of horse. His suppliments include Source Focus HF Hoof, daily Strongid dewormert, and Glanzen 3 (just because I want to.) He gets timothy hay pretty much free feed, which comes out to about 14 pounds a day, and about 2 pounds of alfalfa cubes.

BUT, his turnout gets muddy when it rains, and he doesn't get enough excercise. Those are two things we are working on. He has access to a paddock 24/7 and his stall area is 12 x 24 and is quite dry, but his paddock isn't. We are working on that.

I think his farrier is good. His hooves look, to me, better by far than they have ever looked. He had flares on every hoof, which are now gone, his heels used to be right under him and his toes stretched on forever. And I think his toe crack is looking better since he came back here in December. Since I have had Ahab, he has had 6 farriers, with my current farrier being the sixth.

I have no strong feelings about shoes versus barefooted. My Arab wore shoes for about three years on and off, until my then farrier, the very best farrier I've ever had, suggested I try him barefoot, as his hoofs were so strong.

My Arab's mother and a thoroughbred I leased could not be barefoot, at all. If you rode them, you had to shoe them, and the thoroughbred needed new shoes or resets every six weeks, at least. So if shoes are the answer, I am fine with that.

One thing I read is that with a toe crack you have two options; holding the crack together or holding it apart, and this person felt that itwould heal better when held apart. Hmmm. Interesting.
 
#48 ·
split Hoof damage

I am back at work, and so finally have time to post...

There is a lot of really interesting information coming on this thread, and some fascinating links... I have tried to read them all, and have gone off on some interesting Google tangents.

Nutrition keeps coming up, but I think Ahab is doing fine in this regard, He is on a high fat, low carb, low sugar diet

www.draftresource.com/EPSM/Draft_EPSM_Diets.html

based on Omegatin feed (20% fat) fed at the minimum reommended rate of 3 pounds a day. I have an automatic feeder that gives him one pound, and the rest is fed morning and night with added suppliments and flax & black oil sunflower seeds and oil to keep the fat levels enough for 1500 pounds of horse. His suppliments include Source Focus HF Hoof, daily Strongid dewormert, and Glanzen 3 (just because I want to.) He gets timothy hay pretty much free feed, which comes out to about 14 pounds a day, and about 2 pounds of alfalfa cubes.

BUT, his turnout gets muddy when it rains, and he doesn't get enough excercise. Those are two things we are working on. He has access to a paddock 24/7 and his stall area is 12 x 24 and is quite dry, but his paddock isn't. We are working on that.

I think his farrier is good. His hooves look, to me, better by far than they have ever looked. He had flares on every hoof, which are now gone, his heels used to be right under him and his toes stretched on forever. And I think his toe crack is looking better since he came back here in December. Since I have had Ahab, he has had 6 farriers, with my current farrier being the sixth.

I have no strong feelings about shoes versus barefooted. My Arab wore shoes for about three years on and off, until my then farrier, the very best farrier I've ever had, suggested I try him barefoot, as his hoofs were so strong.

My Arab's mother and a thoroughbred I leased could not be barefoot, at all. If you rode them, you had to shoe them, and the thoroughbred needed new shoes or resets every six weeks, at least. So if shoes are the answer, I am fine with that.

One thing I read is that with a toe crack you have two options; holding the crack together or holding it apart, and this person felt that itwould heal better when held apart. Hmmm. Interesting.
Like everyone else suggests the best thing you can do is to get that hoof X rayed as if there is damage going on above it thats too bad then not a lot you can do.
I would be seriously concerned about a farrier that thought it was OK to rasp around the coronet band as anything other than a light cosmetic buffing is going to thin & compromise the hoof wall as it grows, thats not what you want.
Assuming that there is no significant damage above the crack its never going to grow out unless you pull it together as its constantly being pulled apart from the pressure below and this is actually stronger in a horse that has very hard hooves as they don't 'give' at all.
Wet land especially in hot weather is a perfect breeding place for all the nasty fungal and bacteria infections that are going to harm a horses feet and lower legs, if he chooses to stand out there for the most of his time I'd actually be tempted myself to shut him in his stable for a good part of the day, it sounds to be a wonderful size. A horse of his build and height having no exercise should really be on enough acreage for him to be able to have a run around when he feels like it, 2 acres would seem like a minimum to me.
Its good that you are feeding him on a low sugar diet but if his feet are otherwise healthy and his coat is shiny & weight good then his diet isn't the issue here however I would question the supplements - I mean they are intended for his well being and not just because 'you want too' and too much can be as or more dangerous than none at all, I think if you check whats in your feed against the 2 supplements you will find that you are duplicating most of them and just wasting your money. If you feel he's looking a bit thin or his coat looks dull then adding some oil is OK but a horse thats no working and in a fairly confined space should actually manage fine on just good hay/grazing with a small feed to brighten up his day
You mention a daily wormer - that is SO frowned upon now by veterinarians as the proven cause of resistance in parasites, of course the pharmaceuticals will keep selling them as it cash in their pockets. At most you should use a 4 x year programme using a different active ingredient each time that is aimed at the worms that are most active at that time of year. If you keep your horse in as I do my lot in what is a called an isolated situation i.e. grazing is not exposed to other horses (larvae can travel from one field to another) then I would suggest you get involved in your vets manure sampling programme, this quarter two of my girls were actually negative for parasites and two were very low level strongyles and I was advised to worm them with a specific product aimed at removing them. If you have been constantly using the same active ingredient then its most likely doing nothing at all which can either mean your horse has a heavy worm burden as they are resistant to it or he has no need for one.
This is another link to crack repair and also a nailess shoeing system that can be used in conjunction. If you dab some red nail polish on the top of his hoof it will give you an idea of how fast his feet are growing, average is about 1cm per month. Good (controlled as per laminitis risk) grazing and exercise to maintain good blood flow are beneficial to healthy hooves as is protein and calcium. Sugar beet (No added molasses) is very high in calcium and a good feed to use.
Quarter Crack Repair - A technique that does not penetrate the hoof wall
Again ignore that its aimed at a quarter crack as the principle is the same
 
#42 ·
Apparently your farrier is doing a good job keeping this foot together . With that said I think this crack will never go away. It looks to me this is a coronet band injury that has disrupted the laminae at the corium . I think what appears to be excessive periople is actually a scar at the coronet band which is holding the together . Like I said before without a vet everything is merely speculation.
 
#49 ·
split hoof

Apparently your farrier is doing a good job keeping this foot together . With that said I think this crack will never go away. It looks to me this is a coronet band injury that has disrupted the laminae at the corium . I think what appears to be excessive periople is actually a scar at the coronet band which is holding the together . Like I said before without a vet everything is merely speculation.
Though I agree that this horse is way overdue for an X ray and chances are that there is serious damage somewhere above the hoof deep into the coronet band that may prevent it ever 'healing' I can't see that the farrier has done anything at all to significantly improve the situation as its been like it now for I think 7 years with this owner and 4 years with the previous one, I know she has gone through several different ones and I honestly shudder to think how they can call themselves farriers at all - is there not a law in the US that requires all farriers to complete a quite long college course and exam and then a training period with an established qualified farrier? This poor animal has suffered at the hands of incompetents and any decent farrier would have told the owner to get an X ray right from the 'get go', and that includes the one she has now because without that he's pretty much working blind
 
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