This is just my limited opinion on shoes through my research and without any shoeing experience to back it up. Shoeing will make it harder to rehabilitate your horses hooves back to where they need to be. If you want to get him sound you need to do it with him barefoot. And it may take time because you can't take a horse from a soft field and turn him into a gravel cruncher in one day. But with consistent and logical conditioning you will have those hooves rock hard going over all sorts of terrain and in proper shape.
Now that I've said my peace....
Looking at your horses hooves in your hoof critique thread here's what I see. The entire bottom of the hoof is being pulled forward. You need to back up the toe and get the breakover into it's proper position. The heels don't need to grow out, they need to, "relax back into position" basically. This is done by rasping a bevel on the toe to the proper breakover and maintaining the heel height to the live sole plane. You also need to maintain a bevel every week or two to keep the hoof walls. The idea is to never let the hoof wall get into contact with the ground so much so that it is causing leverage and literally pulling the hoof wall away from the coffin bone. OUCH. If you ever notice small cracks between the outer hoof wall and the sole, that's generally proof of excessive leverage in that area. Also as has been mentioned, the hooves aren't balanced all that great.
The best way to learn about where the breakover needs to be is to study ELPO hoof mapping. And I really like to recommend people to watch Linda's videos on youtube. Start with "hoof trimming to the true anatomy of the equine foot part 1" and work your way to the most current date. Here's her channel.... thehappyhoof - YouTube
For the heels the hoof mapping is going to help tremendously. It will allow the whole hoof capsule to begin to "relax" back into it's proper position. Once that long toe is no longer able to pull the entire sole forward it will allow everything to move back into it's proper place. But you need to bring back the heels, which is basically lowering them to the live sole plane. And the bars in your situation look okay, but I would still make sure they are lower than the heel height and properly defined, as in, not laying over at all. Also when you rasp the heels make sure you rasp level to the collateral grooves and not to the sole. There is some concavity in those hooves but it still appears that t, those little cracks are proof of leverage in that area. Even if you don't see any of those small cracks full of dirt I would still maintain the bevel......he collateral groove is deeper in the back of the hoof than it is at the tip of the frog. So basically you will need to rasp the heels with the rasp floating a little bit above the tip/toe of the hoof. This will give you a heel that is on the same plane or parallel to the collateral grooves.