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Clip a draft for summer heat?

This is a discussion on Clip a draft for summer heat? within the Horse Grooming forums, part of the Keeping and Caring for Horses category

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        05-03-2013, 08:15 PM
      #11
    Super Moderator
    I agree with the suggestions of loose salt and hosing her down on especially hot days.
    My mare gets sort of heat stressed very easily (by the end of a 85-90* day, if she hasn't been hosed off, she'll be acting a little...strange - all cranky, a little "lost", etc) and I've found that adding 4tbls of loose table salt to her feed on hot days (I feed her 1-2T on a daily basis) and really soaking her with water (whether she wants it or not) does wonders.

    Since doing those two things, she hasn't had one event of "weirdness" since.
    Oh, the other thing I did last summer was, on days over 100*, I stalled her in the shade and wet down+froze her flymasks so she had "frozen flymasks." The only reason I stalled her was that she'd just stand out in the sun and not seek shade, even when it was 111* in the sun. Her stall is shady and has the bonus of a cross breeze blowing through from the deep forest so it stays markedly cooler than anywhere else in the pasture.
    Then, I'd let her out at night.
         
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        05-04-2013, 04:07 AM
      #12
    Yearling
    I'd worry about sunburn.
         
        05-06-2013, 11:37 AM
      #13
    Started
    Debbie Bell was born and raised in Texas, too. I never clipped her, and she workked pretty hard. She sweat easily, and freely, and her feathers got thin, but I never felt she was stressed by it.

    She seems A LOT more comfortable here in Kentucky, though, and she is fatter, and her feathers are MUCH better. She also is not plagued by scratches here. She has been here a year.

    Nancy
         
        05-06-2013, 11:42 AM
      #14
    Green Broke
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Left Hand Percherons    
    I would ditch the salt lick and make sure she has loose salt so you know she's getting what she needs. Make sure she has loose minerals to replenish the electrolytes she looses through sweat (no need to buy packaged electrolytes because that's all they are). I will also mix Lite Salt in to give extra K when it's bad.

    She'll let you know if you need to change her care. Mine will line up by the watertank when I'm filling it. If I spray them and they don't walk away, that tells me they want it.

    No to hi-jack but please tell me what to ask for when I go to the feed store? Never used the loose salt or minerals. Do I just put them out in a tub or mix some with their beet pulp at night??? Thanks!
         
        05-06-2013, 01:42 PM
      #15
    Started
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by nvr2many    
    No to hi-jack but please tell me what to ask for when I go to the feed store? Never used the loose salt or minerals. Do I just put them out in a tub or mix some with their beet pulp at night??? Thanks!
    Your feed store will have 50# bags of livestock salt. You can use koshering, pickling or table salt as well. Livestock will be the cheapest. There are some good national brands of loose minerals. Progressive Nutrtion and ADM Grostrong are the better ones. Your local feed mill will also have a blend that they make that will complement the deficiencies and the forages in your area. When looking at a product, Ca should be around 15-20%, P 10-15%, Salt 20-25%(don't want to pay a premium for this but it's needed for taste and freeflow), and the Vit A 100,00+ IU/#. Next look at the Se value. Does it need to be a high or low value in your area? If the blend hits these values, you can be pretty confident that all the other minerals and vitamins will have good values as well. Don't overlook cattle minerals if you live in cattle country. Stay away from the medicated blends. In a pinch, Purina and Nutrena both make a 12-12 mineral blend (that means 12% Ca and 12% P).

    I offer it free choice as mine are infrequently grained. You can mix it 50/50 or put out a bucket of each. Don't be alarmed if they power through a pound or more in the first few days. They are just replenishing their stores and they will drop down to about 1/4 C a day. I prefer to let them eat what they want.

    The lite salt (K) is good if your horse is having a really tough time in the heat and overheating. It's the light blue containers of salt substitute at the grocery store. I'll add a bottle of it to the straight salt in prolonged heat spells.
         
        05-06-2013, 04:29 PM
      #16
    Green Broke
    If you clip her, be sure there is good fly control. If she has shed her winter her and is slick, and has shade, and is not showing heat stress, excessive sweating, flared nostrils etc, I would probably leave her alone. If she was box stalled and clipped and had a fly sheet, it would be different.
         
        05-06-2013, 04:46 PM
      #17
    Teen Forum Moderator
    Our miniature horses are all pretty hairy with THICK manes and tails even in the summer, and one thing that helps them in the summer is braiding their mane so that their necks get air circulation. You can leave them in for a few days at a time and it really seems to work for them. We also offer to spray them when we re-fill the water tank (2-3 times daily) and offer plenty of shade, hay in the shade, and loose salt.

    With our riding horses that are used during summer camps, we braid their manes as well and hose them down during their lunch break and before we put them up. We never hose them before or during work though because its a very icky feeling to have something wet on you when you're hot and sweaty too. We just use a sweat scraper, and change saddle pads frequently.
         

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