The Horse Forum banner
Status
Not open for further replies.

Advice on hooves please!

5K views 41 replies 8 participants last post by  loveyourhorse 
#1 ·
i have had my 3 year old tb for about 2 months now. she's had shoes on all four feet since before i got her with pads on the front feet. her front left is much more narrow and upright than the front right which is round and much flatter. the front left (the narrow foot) also has a crack down the center of it from top to bottom. that same foot also seems to dip in at a strange angle from being so upright. i asked the woman who i purchased her from why her foot was shaped the way it was, she insisted that it was from an abscess and it was growing out. when i asked why she had pads on her feet she told me just because the ground is really rocky.

i had the farrier out two days ago for new shoes and asked him about the foot. at first glance he said it may be a clubbed foot, however after looking closer he said it appears she may have foundered at some point before i got her. he took down the heel on the narrow, upright foot and the angle of the foot looked much better instantly. this time instead of putting aluminum pads (which she had on before) he put thick rubber pads.

today when i went to ride her and she seemed off on the front left (the narrow foot). she wasn't "limping" but she was stepping short, obviously enough that i could feel it while she was trotting. i didn't have anyone to jog her for me or tell me if she looked off from the ground so i'm just going by feel.

i know its hard to say anything without pictures (i will try to get some tomorrow) but does my farriers guess of founder in the past make sense? should she be sore on that foot after having the heal taken down 2 days ago? any advice or opinions are appreciated.

sorry if that was confusing i tried to be as clear as possible!!!
 
See less See more
#2 ·
The description you've provided sounds like classic club foot on the left fore.

A club foot will be unusually upright (>60 degrees), tends toward narrow (boxy) with long heels. They often present very thin soles in the toe region and stretched, thin frogs. Radiographs often present a distal phalanx (coffin bone) with remodeling at the solar edge (lipping).

Indiscriminately dropping the heels on a club footed horse will almost invariably lead to lameness and toe stabbing. The reason is a mechanical increase in tension on the already stressed deep digital flexor tendon (DDFT). The stressed flexor then places additional stress at the insertion point on the solar aspect of the coffin bone. In extreme cases, this can lead to mechanical failure of the interdigital laminae (founder).

Club footed horses often present distortion (dish) of the dorsal wall. Excess length and associated ground reaction force, combined with a general toe stab landing to avoid stress in the caudal aspect of the foot, leads to damage (chipping/breakage) of the distal/dorsal wall and sometimes toe cracks.

The management protocol is to trim the foot to healthy horn then apply elevation to the heels to achieve correct phalangeal alignment and reduce stress on the DDFT. A bar wedge pad and a wide webbed supportive shoe with gentle easing of breakover (rolled toe) is the protocol I use. If the horse is tender during use at the solar toe region (due thin soles) I'll apply a wedged full pad with packing (Magic Cushion) or a leather pad.

The trick to the whole thing is reducing DDFT pull. That means elevating the heels, not lowering them!

When wedging, remember that the club foot is the side with functionally shorter limb length disparity even though it appears higher. It's not uncommon for me to apply a #2 wedge on the clubbed foot and a #1 on the non-clubbed foot.

Presume additional cost to run about $20 more than typical shoeing for this horse.

The seller that told you the horses foot shape was boxy because of an abscess was probably less than truthful.

Is the toe crack vertical or horizontal? An abscess that exits at the coronary will result in a horizontal crack.

Cheers,
Mark
 
#3 ·
thanks for all the info mark! my first thought after looking at the foot more and more was that it was clubby. the crack on the hoof is vertical, running from the coronary to almost the tip of the toe smack in the middle of the hoof. there is also a thick horizontal line about half way down the foot which is what made the farrier change his mind from clubbed foot to founder.

the thing that is really throwing me off is he is the same farrier who has done this horses feet for the previous owner so i'm not sure why he is still bouncing back and fourth between a clubbed foot or founder.

i wish i had taken some before pictures of her feet before he came out the other day. i will def try to get some picture tomorrow of what her feet look like right now.
 
#4 ·
thanks for all the info mark!
You're welcome.

my first thought after looking at the foot more and more was that it was clubby. the crack on the hoof is vertical, running from the coronary to almost the tip of the toe smack in the middle of the hoof.
That would have been my guess. Vertical, not horizontal as we see in abscess related cracks. (Actually, those horizontal cracks aren't really cracks at all, but that's a different subject).

there is also a thick horizontal line about half way down the foot which is what made the farrier change his mind from clubbed foot to founder.
He's worked the horse that long and still isn't sure? As I suggested earlier, perhaps a second opinion from someone with a bit more experience. A clubbed foot, even severely distorted, is easily recognized by examining the angle of the most promixal 3/4" of wall, just below the hairline. Combine that with the more general attributes of stretched frog, deep commissures, thin soles at the toe and long heels and it leaves little to speculation.

That "thick horizontal line" is probably a stress crease caused by excess stress distorting (dishing) the dorsal wall.

the thing that is really throwing me off is he is the same farrier who has done this horses feet for the previous owner so i'm not sure why he is still bouncing back and fourth between a clubbed foot or founder.
Just for fun, I'll take a guess. He doesn't know.

i wish i had taken some before pictures of her feet before he came out the other day. i will def try to get some picture tomorrow of what her feet look like right now.
Look forward to seeing them. Take a lateral shot (side) at ground level, a dorsal view (front) and a solar shot (bottom of foot).

Cheers,
Mark
 
#6 ·
To OP. Sounds like you have a club foot with a toe crack.

Intersesting strategy you have Mark to try and keep a club sound.
I will have to disagree on your thoughts on how to keep a club foot sound.
Posted via Mobile Device

It's not really my strategy but rather, a generally accepted protocol for managing a club in which DDFT pull is causal. This would be in contrast to a club condition artificially created via improper hoof care or neglect.

I'd like to read what alternative protocol you employ.

Cheers,
Mark
 
#7 ·
So far in my career, every club foot I have worked on, which is quit a few, is to take the dish out of the toe from the top side of the foot. Then trim the heels down to what makes the horse stand comfortable to its comformation.

If you are to put a shoe on a club foot, always fit the shoe a little wide to support the quarters and heels of the foot and normal fit at the toe, because the toe wall is already thinned by filing the dish back where it needs to be.

I have best results with ( kerckhaert SX8 steel shoes ) sometimes SX7 on smaller feet and reset the shoes every 4 to 5 weeks.

Do that every shoeing and I have actually seen club feet widen a little bit.
Posted via Mobile Device
 
#8 ·
So far in my career, every club foot I have worked on, which is quit a few, is to take the dish out of the toe from the top side of the foot. Then trim the heels down to what makes the horse stand comfortable to its comformation.
Removing distortion by dressing the dorsal is fine as long as structural integrity of the wall is not compromised. How much of that distortion can dressed out in one visit will vary.

Trimming the heels down to make a club footed horse "stand comfortable" is an unlikely goal given that the decrease in elevation will increase tension on DDFT pull. If the horse is grossly overgrown at the heel it is certainly appropriate to remove some of that heel but with caution and an eye towards the mechanics of the structures involved. The OP's example is a good case in point. Knock off the heel length and the horse is lame within a couple days. Where do you think that discomfort likely originates.

If you are to put a shoe on a club foot, always fit the shoe a little wide to support the quarters and heels of the foot and normal fit at the toe, because the toe wall is already thinned by filing the dish back where it needs to be.
Fitting for expansion at the quarters/heels is SOP on just about any horse and not unique to a club foot.

Fitting the toe is fine too but easing breakover with a roll to that perimeter fit shoe will go a long way towards removing the ground reaction force that is causal to the distortion in the dorsal wall.

Bonus question... why do you think club feet appear predisposed to dishing/distortion at the dorsal wall? Think about where the horse wants to load and why.

I have best results with ( kerckhaert SX8 steel shoes ) sometimes SX7 on smaller feet and reset the shoes every 4 to 5 weeks.
Nothing wrong with either choice but when used alone it means you're either leaving a lot of heel on the horse or you're not addressing DDFT pull associated with a functionally shortened flexor tendon/muscle group.

Bet you see a lot of atrophy in the frog tissues of those flat-shod feet.

Do that every shoeing and I have actually seen club feet widen a little bit.
Posted via Mobile Device
Sometimes they may expand a bit but in my experience, improvement is limited.

Cheers,
Mark
 
#9 ·
Hey Mark I'm back.

I realize your concern of pull on the DDFT, but you also need to keep slight tension on the DDFT in my opinion.

what I see happening if you don't keep tension the DDFT contracts more and more and so do the heels.

Also if you don't trim to make the knees even heights you will have problems there and shoulder issues.

The club footed side is always higher in the knee than the other side.

I do agree beveling the shoe at the toe relieves more pressure on the DDFT, also a properly fitted straight bar shoe helps heel support.

What is more uncomfortable for a horse some pull on the DDFT or uneven knees which also has to push up on the shoulder ?

I can't see how you can be even close with having the knees level and the same heights with 1 degree higher wedge pad on the club foot versus the foot on the other side, but if that works for you, I'm hats off to you, because every farrier has their own opinion and ways of doing stuff, they all have a right to do so as far as I'm aware of.

Not wanting to start a debate.
I was just stating what works for me.
Posted via Mobile Device
 
#19 ·
Hey Mark I'm back.

I realize your concern of pull on the DDFT, but you also need to keep slight tension on the DDFT in my opinion.

what I see happening if you don't keep tension the DDFT contracts more and more and so do the heels.
No disrespect but it's not a matter of opinion. It's a matter of anatomical science.

Unlike the muscle tissue they are attached to, tendons don't "contract". The expression "contracted tendon" is a misnomer. In a congenital case of club foot, the musculature/tendon flexor apparatus is functionally shortened, hence the tension imbalance. Tendons have a "rest" state and a "working" state, not a "contracted" state.

The difference is a matter of parallel collagen fibers that, as compared to muscle tissue, react slowly to electric impulses and are already in a coiled state. At best, there is the slightest amount of stretch to tendon tissue but, no contraction.

Also if you don't trim to make the knees even heights you will have problems there and shoulder issues.

The club footed side is always higher in the knee than the other side.
No sir; a horse presenting a unilateral club foot condition will present a leg length disparity that is "functionally" shorter on the club side; hence the physiologic reserve response that results in the accelerated heel growth .

Trimming the club footed heel down further will increase stress on the DDFT and subsequent pull on the distal phalanx. That pull on the coffin bone increases strain on the interdigital laminae and pressure on the solar corium, compromising the vascular bed in the anterior of the foot, resulting in the thin soles so common in a club foot.

Don't misunderstand. I'm not suggesting that a farrier leave excess heel on the club foot. Excess heel length is causal in contracted heel distortion, to frog tissue atrophy and increased risk of fungal/bacterial intrusion of those then compromised tissues. Trim the heels to healthy, strong horn with an eye towards passive frog engagement, but then follow up by restoring elevation via orthotics to assure correct mechanical function.

On the surface it appears contradictory. We trim the heels down/back, only to raise them back up again via wedging, but by doing so, we increase the base of support, reduce DDFT pull and passively engage the frog.

It has been observed that managing a clubbed foot shares some protocol aspects common to treating a laminitic. There is considerable truth in that observation.

I do agree beveling the shoe at the toe relieves more pressure on the DDFT, also a properly fitted straight bar shoe helps heel support.
You must have misunderstood me. I said that rolling the toe will ease breakover; not that beveling the shoe will reduce pressure on the DDFT. One has nothing to do with the other.

Elevation (+/-) effects DDFT/SDFT/Interosseus tension. Easing breakover reduces ground reaction force at the distal margin of the wall/toe structures.

What is more uncomfortable for a horse some pull on the DDFT or uneven knees which also has to push up on the shoulder ?
There is no reason for the horse to suffer discomfort for either condition. Trim the feet to capsule conformation and apply orthotic wedges as appropriate to compensate for increased DDFT pull and limb length disparity. In this case, you can have your cake and eat it too.

I can't see how you can be even close with having the knees level and the same heights with 1 degree higher wedge pad on the club foot versus the foot on the other side, but if that works for you, I'm hats off to you, because every farrier has their own opinion and ways of doing stuff, they all have a right to do so as far as I'm aware of.
I make considerable effort to avoid personal opinion and focus more on anatomical mechanics to address the needs of the horse. In some cases (mild club), evenly applied wedging works fine. In more severe cases it may be necessary to adjust/vary caudal elevation to assure bilateral balance.

By the way, I didn't say a 1 degree higher wedge pad. Wedge pads are typically offered as a #1, #2 or #3 product. The nomenclature is typically not a measure of angle.

Not wanting to start a debate.
I was just stating what works for me.
Posted via Mobile Device
Debate can be educational. What "works" should always be viewed with a critical eye, particularly given that some horses appear to get along alright in spite of our efforts, not because of them.

Cheers,
Mark
 
#20 ·
hopefully these pics are good enough, if not i will try again! the last picture is just so you can see the size difference between her two front feet. the rings around the top are sweat marks from her bell boots.
Photos are fine.

The vertical crack appears old and generally closed. With proper hoof care, it should grow out in the coming months.

The horizontal crack does not look like an old abscess. While it may have been a metabolic episode originating at the coronary (growth ring), it appears more to be a stress crease in the wall that is part and parcel of the long term distortion of the hoof capsule.

The second photo tells the story. It's a grade 2 club foot with dorsal wall distortion (dishing). The current shoeing protocol will not influence a healthier growth pattern beyond what you see at this time.

D/P balance around COA isn't bad but I'd want to see more expansion in the heel quarters. This shoeing is more of a "hunter fit".

The full pad provides two advantages. Protection of the solar tissues and possibly some passive support of the frog, dependent upon any packing he may have used. If he used no packing, the heel length will probably reduce/negate frog stimulation and the pad will create more of an anaerobic environment conducive to opportunistic bacteria/fungus.

Your farrier likes a tight fit. Is there some concern/history of this horse pulling shoes? The dorsal view of the right front doesn't really tell me much. No obvious capsular distortion or coronary jamming.

No reason to expect that the two front feet will ever look like a matched pair. The right front is the more normal of the two; the left is a club and will always be rather "boxy" and more upright. You can manage it but you cannot fix it.


Cheers,
Mark
 
#14 ·
I will definitely ask him about getting the toe more relief. He said next time he is out he wants to seal the crack to give it a chance to grow out. Thoughts on doing that?

Based on my pictures, you would definitely say its clubbed not foundered, correct?
Posted via Mobile Device
 
#21 ·
I will definitely ask him about getting the toe more relief. He said next time he is out he wants to seal the crack to give it a chance to grow out. Thoughts on doing that?
There are times when sealing/lacing/casting a crack may be appropriate but in this case, I'd say no.

Address the distortion in the foot and the cracks will eventually grow out (particularly the horizontal "crack") or, in the case of the vertical crack, it will grow out or simply tighten. Using adhesive or any polymer to "seal" the vertical crack is likely to trap anaerobic bacteria.

Based on my pictures, you would definitely say its clubbed not foundered, correct?
Posted via Mobile Device
Definitely clubbed.

As to potential for founder (laminitis), probably none active although there may be history of mechanical rotation. Radiographs are always a good idea, if for no other reason, to determine extent of any bone remodeling, sole thickness and to set a baseline for future reference.

Cheers,
Mark
 
#15 ·
Yes a club foot.

The more toe relief you get the quicker that crack will grow out as there won't be as much pressure on the toe wall.

Also clips can be very helpful, they need be in toe quarter area that will help hold the crack together normally in between the first and second nail hole, sometimes right in front of the first nail hole depends on the nail pattern in the shoe.

Don't have the clips back along the side of the foot any further than that or you are better of with no clips for a club foot.
Posted via Mobile Device
 
#16 ·
He said he wanted to put some sort of mesh on the cracks then some sort of putty to seal it. I will be sure to mention the clips to him.

I will also be seeking out a second opinion from another farrier considering mine has worked with the horse for a while and still didnt know if it was clubbed or foundered.

I have never had a horse with a clubbed foot before. Are there any limitations for her physically as far as riding, jumping, competeing, etc?
Posted via Mobile Device
 
#17 ·
No she should be fine you will have to get her feet done more often so there isn't a big change in the leg and foot.

Watch her knee bones try n keep those even with one another in hieghts.

I used to shoe a saddlebred with a severe club foot that was shown successfully till the owner sold it.

We had to add more wieght on the club foot than we did on the other side to get the horse to pick the feet up the same hieghts.

That's why most horses with a club foot short step a little bit on that side because a club foot is a tad bit lighter than the normal foot.

Good Luck.
Posted via Mobile Device
 
#22 ·
Thanks mark, im not looking to fix her foot I just want to learn more and be sure that she is receiving proper care and of course keep her sound.

As far as the tight fit, she does have a very big over step so I keep bell boots on her but I havent heard anything about her ever pulling her shoes.

Under the pad he put 3 or 4 cotton balls soaked with thrush buster and iodine.
Posted via Mobile Device
 
#26 ·
Thanks mark, im not looking to fix her foot I just want to learn more and be sure that she is receiving proper care and of course keep her sound.
Good goals and hopefully this discussion has provided additional information that you'll find useful.

As far as the tight fit, she does have a very big over step so I keep bell boots on her but I havent heard anything about her ever pulling her shoes.
Bell boots can help a lot and may afford your farrier opportunity to provide a wider shoe fit at the heel quarters.

Under the pad he put 3 or 4 cotton balls soaked with thrush buster and iodine.
Posted via Mobile Device
Good that he makes some effort to avoid bacterial/fungal problems. I use Magic Cushion to achieve a more uniform coverage/protection. It's relatively inexpensive and effective.

Mark, I've been following this for a while. I know nothing of what you are talking about. I know the hoof, the frog, the coronary band and the pastern. All these other technical words you use are so confusing. Is there a way you could come down a little to us so we can understand the parts better? You obviously have studied and gone to school but we little people (me) don't understand those tech words for the bone and hoof parts. You seem very intelligent but I would like it so I could understand it in my language. I get very lost when you talk but am interested in what your saying.
Posted via Mobile Device
While I understand your concern, discussing specifics of equine hoof care can become grammatically more complex as we delve into greater detail while trying to understand/explain lameness, gait and performance issues.

The structures you acknowledge familiarity with (hoof, frog, coronary band and pastern) are those things we can see. The farrier has to be familiar with many of those anatomical structures that we cannot see. He also needs to understand the mechanical forces in play that effect those structures.

Yes, I could probably "dumb it down" in terms of language, but I honestly consider that a disservice to the reader. Correct terminology encourages the reader to gain a larger understanding of their horses anatomy and hopefully, why a farrier employs a given protocol for a specific horse.

The best possible team for assuring quality health and performance of your horse is not the farrier and vet. The best team is the farrier, the vet and YOU. The more you know about your horse, the better prepared you will be to engage in meaningful conversations and decisions in behalf of your horse.

Here's a sidenote you may find interesting.

Did you know that until recent years, the what/why/how of the farrier's trade was often considered very secretive? Not only did farriers not share information with horse owners, they wouldn't even share information with each other!

A farrier could walk into a barn where another farrier was working and guess what happened?

The working farrier would stop what he was doing! He didn't want the competing farrier to see his "trade secrets".

Even today, there are still farriers that engage in this practice of "secrecy".

The good news is that has largely changed in the last thirty years. Farriers have become much more open about their work; pursuing continuing education and sharing information with each other and the equine industry in general. It's a hugely important change for everyone involved. Personally, I credit the American Farrier's Association and some of the better farrier schools with much of this change.

Don't be afraid to ask questions if the terminology or concepts seem unfamiliar. A basic understanding of equine anatomy and bio-mechanics is a reasonable goal. All the better if, along the way, we pick up some correct terminology to assist our discussions.

Cheers,
Mark
 
#23 ·
Mark, I've been following this for a while. I know nothing of what you are talking about. I know the hoof, the frog, the coronary band and the pastern. All these other technical words you use are so confusing. Is there a way you could come down a little to us so we can understand the parts better? You obviously have studied and gone to school but we little people (me) don't understand those tech words for the bone and hoof parts. You seem very intelligent but I would like it so I could understand it in my language. I get very lost when you talk but am interested in what your saying.
Posted via Mobile Device
 
#24 ·
Mark, I've been following this for a while. I know nothing of what you are talking about. I know the hoof, the frog, the coronary band and the pastern. All these other technical words you use are so confusing. Is there a way you could come down a little to us so we can understand the parts better? You obviously have studied and gone to school but we little people (me) don't understand those tech words for the bone and hoof parts. You seem very intelligent but I would like it so I could understand it in my language. I get very lost when you talk but am interested in what your saying.
Posted via Mobile Device

Been trying to tell him this for a while.:wink:
 
#27 ·
What your not understanding is many of these posters are very young. Some don't care about all the terminology. All they want to know is what, why and how to go about fixing something. Its great you want to teach others the anatomy of a horses inner structures and what cutting or beveling can do to not only the hoof but the bones all along that. But there is a reason farriers become farriers and go to school and learn all that and there's a reason some people don't. I believe there wouldn't be a farrier business and that everyone would be able to do their own horses.

I'm only asking that instead of getting so technical that 13yr olds here get way too confused and learn absolutely nothing that you would come down to a childs level. And I take a little offense to the "dumb it down" comment. That is a little uncalled for. That only makes me not want to learn from you and makes me want to walk away from your advice. Is that how you want to portray yourself, as a self loathing jerk?
Posted via Mobile Device
 
#32 ·
What your not understanding is many of these posters are very young.
Your presumption is in error.

Some don't care about all the terminology. All they want to know is what, why and how to go about fixing something.
And those readers will pass on the more involved posts. Reader's choice.

I believe there wouldn't be a farrier business and that everyone would be able to do their own horses.
Knowledge can be taught. Experience cannot. I think the farrier industry is generally safe from any serious risk that horse owners might learn too much.

I'm only asking that instead of getting so technical that 13yr olds here get way too confused and learn absolutely nothing that you would come down to a childs level.
If I'm talking to children (e.g. 4-H members, etc), I do "come down to their level". When talking to horse owners, I have adult conversational expectations. Adults pay the bills and often want more information.

In my experience, 13 year olds "get way too confused" about a lot of things.

And I take a little offense to the "dumb it down" comment. That is a little uncalled for.
Not "uncalled for" at all. It's a common expression used frequently and all to often appropriately in American educational systems, government and business. Frankly, it's a fundamental problem in our country. Everyone wants everything served up simple, easy and fast with as little effort in critical thinking as possible. Ya want fries with that burger?

That only makes me not want to learn from you and makes me want to walk away from your advice.
Is it your habit to "walk away" from anything that challenges you or that you find unsettling? Sorry, I'm a professional farrier. I don't do hand-holding, hair brushing, daycare or therapy. Child counseling is 3 doors down on the left.

Is that how you want to portray yourself, as a self loathing jerk?
Is this how you want to portray yourself... as a whining child with an aversion to learning anything that seems difficult, challenging or otherwise "not at your level"?

Growing up is tough. Growing up in ignorance is lot tougher.

Cheers,
Mark
 
#30 ·
I don't think there is any reason to be offended by the "dumb it down" phrase.

I beleive that Mark is correct to put things the way he does. He puts a lot of substantial information into his posts. If you (collective) don't know a specific term that he uses, it really isn't that hard to discover what it is. Also, in my opinion, by him using the correct phrases and terms for the structures of the hoof/leg he is being a lot more specific than if he tried to translate it into "layman's terms."
 
#34 ·
Wow Mark. I wasn't looking for a fight. I never said that the way you explain things was wrong only that I wish that you would explain your terminology a little less fancy. I am ending this and yes walking away. Finding your attitude is a wee more "I'm better than tho", pretty disgusting.
Posted via Mobile Device
 
#38 ·
Wow Mark. I wasn't looking for a fight. I never said that the way you explain things was wrong only that I wish that you would explain your terminology a little less fancy. I am ending this and yes walking away. Finding your attitude is a wee more "I'm better than tho", pretty disgusting.
Posted via Mobile Device
Just my opinion, but it sure "read" like you were looking for one...
 
#35 ·
Mark do you go shoeing horses wearing a suit and tie since you are such a professional.

You are sounding like you need to get a tax cut passed or something.

I really am wondering how much experience you actually have if any.

You sound like a farrier that wants to shoe everything by the book with little to no experience and NO ONE else knows anything.

Seriously you really have taken this a bit far I believe.

End of story i'm done with you and your attitude.

I have never ever met a farrier with quite the mentallity you show on this forum not even in shoeing clinics and shoeing conventions.

Good luck with you and your business.
Posted via Mobile Device
 
#37 ·
Mark do you go shoeing horses wearing a suit and tie since you are such a professional.

You are sounding like you need to get a tax cut passed or something.
Are you that easily intimidated by someone who might challenge your notion of how to manage a club footed horse?

I really am wondering how much experience you actually have if any.
And I wonder about the credibility of a farrier that doesn't understand that tendons do not contract and there's sometimes more to managing a club footed horse than just trimming down the heels til the knees match, nailing on a pair of flat keggers and telling the owner "she will be fine".

You sound like a farrier that wants to shoe everything by the book with little to no experience and NO ONE else knows anything.
Your perceptions are your problem, not mine. Don't think I'll apologize for having read more than "the book", whatever that is.

Seriously you really have taken this a bit far I believe.
How so? By questioning some of your assertions? Heaven forbid anyone on a public forum do that.

End of story i'm done with you and your attitude.
Your choice, but no attitude here. The topic is management of a club footed horse. Not your sensitivities or perceptions.

I have never ever met a farrier with quite the mentallity you show on this forum not even in shoeing clinics and shoeing conventions.
Really? Most farrier clinics, conventions and seminars include various and liberal doses of equine mechanics, anatomy, forging, shoeing and problem solving protocols.

Those venues are where many other farrier's and veterinarians teach and demonstrate this "by the book" stuff. And yeah, a few of them occasionally show up wearing suits and ties. I never really cared much about what they wore, as long as I could learn something. Perhaps your attendance at such venues is over-stated.

Good luck with you and your business.
Posted via Mobile Device
And to you yours.

Cheers,
Mark
 
#42 ·
Just an update for you guys...
I have been searching fot a new farrier and got a recommendation from my feed barn. He will be coming out next week.
Since her feet were last done their condition seems to have gone down hill... The clubbed foot now has a much larger chip out of the toe. The "normal" front has chips along the sides. Both feet appear to be growing out past the shoe on the sides. Im no expert but I would have to guess thats because the shoes are too small, right? Im also finding that small stones had made their way in between the pads and the shoe of her clubbed foot.

Ive been doing some reading about clubbed feet and I have found everyone has a different opinion, which of course is expected. I know they are conformational defects, however I did find a few websites that said they can be "man made" by poor shoeing, injury, or a lack of hoof care. Is this at all possible? Or are they always 100% conformational/genetic? Could she have the clubbed foot due to her shoes being put on too small? She's had the same farrier for a while now..

Sorry if that was a confusing mess! Any comments or opinions are always welcomed and appreciated! Thanks in advance :)
Posted via Mobile Device
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
You have insufficient privileges to reply here.
Top