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I still think he is too skinny!

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        07-10-2011, 12:47 PM
      #21
    Foal
    You'll get the most out of it if you feed it everyday. IMO pretty much all feeds and supplements should be fed on a daily basis. The horses digestive track is naturally built to constantly be digesting forage, not complete feeds or feedstuffs. That's why it's so important to gradually introduce new feeds to a horses diet - their digestive tracks need to adjust to the different starch, fat, and protein levels that are not typically found in forage. Once the horse has been fully introduced to a new feed, it's best to feed the same meal each day.

    Once you've started feeding the Enrich & flax (and free choice hay if possible, you'll see optimal results this way), give it few weeks to see if you notice any coverage starting over the ribs. If my assumptions are correct then this should be a sufficient amount of feed, but if he's a harder keeper than I suspected you could add a few cups of beet pulp or alfalfa pellets to the mix, you'll just have to play it by ear.

    I also converted the weights I suggested into cups for you:

    Current ProBiotics
    2 lbs (4 cups) of Enrich 32
    1/4 lb (3/4 cup) of whole flax seed

    I apologize for such long, ranty posts. My horses have been on the same feeds for so long I think I was deprived of playing with different ideas...
         
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        07-10-2011, 12:54 PM
      #22
    Green Broke
    "Look at him from directly behind and if the belly is wider than the hips, he's too fat."

    I think that this statement is generally true; however, I have two 24 year old horses that have big bellys that are wider than their hips, but they show ribs. One is WAY overweight and he still shows ribs. I think it is just the fact that they are ancient. They seem happy and healthy enough.
         
        07-10-2011, 06:05 PM
      #23
    Cat
    Green Broke
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by AmazinCaucasian    
    1
    2. Look at him from directly behind and if the belly is wider than the hips, he's too fat.

    Not true at all. I've seen this in horses that were too thin. Also if you have a horse that is draft/draft cross or some of the stocky ponies they tend to have wide sprung ribs. Might apply to light riding horses.
         
        07-10-2011, 06:28 PM
      #24
    Green Broke
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by trailhorserider    
    I don't see how a horse showing ribs could be overweight.

    There will probably be a few people that prefer them just showing ribs, but I personally don't like to see ribs at all.

    I admit I prefer them on the slightly heavier side though.

    But I really don't see how someone could say he is overweight. That boggles my mind.

    If a horse has a large hay belly, they could be getting too much roughage and not enough nutrition, and/or be wormy (not saying that's your horse, just in general). But horses don't carry fat in their belly like people do. So a large belly doesn't equal overweight.

    In horses, you look for weight over the ribs and topline. The ribs suggest to me that he is slightly underweight, not overweight.
    Yeah what trailrider said
         
        07-10-2011, 11:03 PM
      #25
    Yearling
    Post

    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Cat    
    Not true at all. I've seen this in horses that were too thin. Also if you have a horse that is draft/draft cross or some of the stocky ponies they tend to have wide sprung ribs. Might apply to light riding horses.
    Yes I'm referring to light riding horses. That's what this thread is about; a woman's saddle horse. He's pictured on the original post and he's not a draft or a pony. It's just a general guideline she can use on him. But as people mentioned, he's probly wormy
         
        07-11-2011, 11:12 AM
      #26
    Weanling
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by AbbeyCPA    
    You'll get the most out of it if you feed it everyday. IMO pretty much all feeds and supplements should be fed on a daily basis. The horses digestive track is naturally built to constantly be digesting forage, not complete feeds or feedstuffs. That's why it's so important to gradually introduce new feeds to a horses diet - their digestive tracks need to adjust to the different starch, fat, and protein levels that are not typically found in forage. Once the horse has been fully introduced to a new feed, it's best to feed the same meal each day.

    Once you've started feeding the Enrich & flax (and free choice hay if possible, you'll see optimal results this way), give it few weeks to see if you notice any coverage starting over the ribs. If my assumptions are correct then this should be a sufficient amount of feed, but if he's a harder keeper than I suspected you could add a few cups of beet pulp or alfalfa pellets to the mix, you'll just have to play it by ear.

    I also converted the weights I suggested into cups for you:

    Current ProBiotics
    2 lbs (4 cups) of Enrich 32
    1/4 lb (3/4 cup) of whole flax seed

    I apologize for such long, ranty posts. My horses have been on the same feeds for so long I think I was deprived of playing with different ideas...

    Abbey, your posts are ANYTHING but long and ranting!! You have given me sound, detailed advice, which is EXACTLY what someone like myself needs. I truly appreciate it so much! It allowed me to make an informed decision, along with a bit of research and you have helped a lot.
    Thank You for converting the weights for me and I am grateful for the thought that you have put into my question. When it comes to my horse EVERYTHING is so terrifying for me, and I have gotten some not so great advice from the people I deal with on a face to face basis. The lady at TSC is my new best friend and I feel like a groupie when I go in there and hunt her down.
    I'm sure I could give you a million things to roll over in your mind and come up with different ideas for!
    Thanks again. I have everything written down, purchased yesterday and begun immediately, along with having my boyfriend drive out on the days I can't make it.
    Thanks again, so much. To you and everyone who has given great advice. <3
         
        07-11-2011, 04:56 PM
      #27
    Banned
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by ScharmLily    
    I had read that the BOSS contains more omega 6's than omega 3 fatty acids. These can contribute to inflammatory responses in animals. However, research has not yet shown if this would affect horses.
    My mare's skin started reacting to bugbites like CRAZY when she was on BOSS she's on Canola Meal and is doing well now. As soon as we stopped the BOSS I noticed a difference.

    I would highly suggest Canola meal as a way of putting weight on your guy it has worked very well with mine.
         
        07-14-2011, 11:46 AM
      #28
    Weanling
    Here are the photos I promised. A little late due to my stupid PC. Anyhow, he seems to be filling in slightly. I have started him on the supplements Abbey suggested, though I'm sure it hasn't made a difference this early. I think it is because I figured out a way to sneak him his ProBios with a carrot/apple salad type of thing, although last night I mixed them with the flax and he ate it up. Made a face a couple of times, but continued eating anyway.

    I have another question, if you guys don't mind. What, in your opinion is a good worming schedule?
    As I stated earlier, he was done with Quest in March and Ivermec twice since then and I would like to keep him on a regular schedule, the people I have spoken to around me, worm twice, once in the Spring and once in the Fall/Winter, but what I had read and researched before I bought him said a good schedule is important which is why I have continued on my own. What are your opinions?
    Thanks You Guys!!!
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        07-14-2011, 01:11 PM
      #29
    Foal
    It really depends on what his turnout is like. Is he with other horses? If so are the all on the same worming rotation? Is the paddock mucked regularily? Is the horse stalled often? How old is he/she?

    I used to have fecals done twice a year before I acquired 3 more horses :roll: Then I'd base my worming shedule on the worm count and what type. Worming every 6-8 weeks is just a general rule of thumb, but now a days it just helps the horse build a resistance. That's why IMO fecals are important, therefor you aren't over or under worming.

    If fecals are not an option, seasonally should do the trick. It also depends on the location. In warmer climates you'd typically want to worm more often (again, depends on the turnout, etc), but in those with extreme heat or below zero, worming less often is O.K.

    My herd of 4 is on a dry 6 acre lot that is mucked out every 2-3 days. I usually do a Fenbendazole in the middle of winter, Moxidectin in spring, Ivermectin in summer, and Pyrantel Pamoate in fall, then repeat if my fecals come back low.
         
        07-14-2011, 01:22 PM
      #30
    mls
    Trained
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Dusty1228    


    I, too, would like to see his ribs covered. Before I bought him(Last fall) he never had ribs showing, but he was never ridden either. I was also wondering about the quality of the hay. It is all my B.O.'s hay from his fields he bales himself, I'm not sure how to tell as far as quality goes...? I'm going to work on supplements. I have gotten some great advice. Thank You!
    That was going to be my question. Hay quality. If the hay is more filler, they will have the large belly due to undigested 'crap' in their system.

    However he also needs condition/muscling.
         

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