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Making a Vet Kit

2M views 277 replies 215 participants last post by  AmiraAchek 
#1 ·
Hey guys! I am posting this thread primarily to gather thoughts on what your Ideal Vet Kits are, what you always have on hand, and to get together and put together a list of what all horse owners should have around the ol' tack room in case your horse gets ill or acts a fool and gets hurt ;)

What is a Vet Kit? Usually a trunk sized container with different compartments where you store your medicinal stuff for when your horse may get an injury or infection.

I was absolutely startled when my friend was purchasing her first horse, and bought saddles, bridles, brushes, and other riding/grooming stuff, but didn't buy so much as one vet wrap, or bottle of Iodine. The day she brought her horse home, she noticed she had a nail stuck in the sole of her hoof.. and couldn't do anything about it since she had no supplies. She did all she could do, and pulled the nail, then proceeded to... put the horse's foot down in the dirt. The next morning the horse had a fever and was very sick. She had an infection from the open sore in the sole, and cost her a lot of money in vet bills. Why? All because she didnt have Iodine, gauze, and vet wrap. An 8 dollar investment.. and she could have avoided the 200 dollar vet bills. Nice.

Since i know people who are new to horse ownership may visit the forums, i would love to have a list of items that should be in a vet kit. If there are any added suggestions, please post, and i will add it to the list! (and put your user name by it, since it was your idea :)) If you have a question as to why something is on the list, post, and i will explain why i recommend getting it (since some of these things are going to seem really off the wall. I will try to put *'s by the ones that are bizarre, and at the very bottom of the post have a "key" of sorts, that says why i believe they are needed.

Onto the list!

Thermometer
Vet Wrap
Gauze rolls
Non-stick gauze pads
Rubber Gloves
Betadine Scrub (Iodine, for washing)
Betadine Solution (Iodine, for soaking)*
Triple Antibiotic (Neosporin)
Alcohol
Hydrogen Peroxide
SWAT
Bute (Must be purchased from Vet)
Desatin**
Diapers***
Aspirin
Powder Electrolytes
Mortar and Pestle/Pill Crusher
Cotton Swabs
Bandage Scissors
Scissors
Stiff Plastic Grooming Brush (all plastic)
Small Rubber Soaking Bucket
Epsom Salts
Wonder Dust
Terramyacine ****
Pillow Wraps
Normal Wraps
Thin Polo Wraps
Duct Tape (Comes in handier than ya think!)
Bigeloil *****
Bot Knife
Clean Stainless Steel Hoof pick
Ichthamol ******
Fura Septin *******
A jug of purified or distilled water
Spray bottle of purified or distilled water
Mineral Oil ********
Anti-bacterial Soap (recommended by barnrat)
Vaseline (recommended by kristy)


* (Betadine Solution) I highly recommend offloading some of the Betadine Solution into a little squeezie bottle, or a spray bottle, i have needed it in the past to squirt on the frog, and this way you will waste less.

** (Desatin) Found at any human stores, its used to treat diaper rash in babies, but also works well when mixed with Swat.

*** (Diapers) These work awesome if the horse has a problem on the bottom of the foot, like an abscess or a cut. When the horse's foot is in it, it offers extra padding so ensure the horse will be comfortable. Of course, you will need to use vet wrap to make sure its on securely.

**** (Terramyacine) Sold at many tack stores, this is a little tube of gooey medicine that has the same texture as triple antibiotic. Its sold over the counter, and it is really essential to have around if your horse gets a weepy, gunky, or irritated eye.

***** (Bigeloil) Sold at many tack stores, this is the horse's equivalent to Ben Gay, or Icy Hot. It is in liquid form, and is used to apply to sore muscle spots on the horse.

****** (Ichthamol) Sold at many tack stores, GREAT medication/salve that is primarily used on abscesses.

******* (Fura Septin) Sold at many tack stores, it is used to prevent bacteria infections on surface wounds or burns. I prefer triple antibiotic, but this works just as well, and comes in a larger container!

******** (Mineral Oil) Found at many human stores, we have had to use this in the past with horses that weren't defecating, when ingested it helps loosen the stool if there is a blockage. This has also been used when a horse was choking, to help the item the horse was choking on slide down its throat.

-Skippy
 
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#3 ·
At our barn we have everything that we need and when we run out (before we can get to the store and buy some more) we are always welcome to Borrow or use someone elses.

I did not see anti-bacterial soup on your list but that comes in handy when cleaning the wounds.
 
#143 ·
I usually use hydrogen peroxide, or iodine when cleaning a wound, but i will add it to the list! =)

Thanks guys!
Just noticed this comment and thought I would mention that hydrogen peroxide can actually hinder the cleaning of small wounds. HP eats away at the bacteria and essentially 'cleans' the wound, which is great, but it also eats away at the good bacteria, skin around the wound, and can lengthen healing time by destroying the scab and 'good' bacteria trying to seal the wound.

Just a helpful heads up! Soap n' water!
 
#6 ·
Thanks Kristy! Vaseline is wonderful to have around for general lubrication and whatnot. I use that, or Lubricating Jelly (like KY) when i need to take a horse's temperature and whatnot. Its also great on chapped skin.

Sunscreen is also good to have around during the summer months for those of us with horses with pink noses ^^

If its ok, i am going to sticky thing thread for a little bit since i think it is a good reference for people to have when shopping for veterinary items for their horse =) People browsing the forums could get some use of this :)
 
#10 ·
Nappy rash cream(the kind you use on babies) is cheap, easy to get hold of and is really good for girth gall, greasy heal and other rubs and rashes. :)
 
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#13 ·
no stuff

I was a little stressed to find that the barn I was at didn't have certain items. I know that I should have my own things as well but I assumed the barn would have certain things on hand. Come to find out boarders have borrowed it and never returned it. What is wrong with people. I have printed off the entire list and am going to buy everything on it whether I need it or not. I hate not being prepared
 
#16 ·
giget said:
hi guys
is it really stupid to ask what swat is??
:oops:
It's a pest repelent *spelling?*. I use it in my horse's ears if the bugs are bothering them. and i think you can put it on wounds to keep the bugs off of them too. and by the way, you're not stupid for asking the quetion i think it was good you did. :D
 
#19 ·
I would make a few changes to the list:

no hydrogen peroxide, iodine, spray on wound dressings --all of these products are harmful to the tissues and slow healing. Hydrogen peroxide is far from a good antibacterial cleaning agent too. (information presented at the 2006 AAEP convention)


I would also ensure that the vet's phone number is included in the first aid kit so you don't have to go digging for it in an emergency and a copy of a good equine first aid manual.

Here is are a couple of good links on first aid and when to call the vet, but be warned there are some graphic photos:

http://www.acvs.org/AnimalOwners/HealthConditions/LargeAnimalEquineTopics/GeneralWoundManagement/

http://www.acvs.org/AnimalOwners/HealthConditions/LargeAnimalEquineTopics/EquineFractures/
 
#21 ·
Here is an article from an archived issue of The Horse. It is from 2000, however, it is still very relevent... see where I have highlighted what has been known for many years now in the article from 2000. It also includes several new items to add to your list as well as some of the standbys that are already included. Superb idea whosever it was!
Bravo!

Your Barn's First Aid Kit by Karen Briggs 7/1/00
If you're a new horse owner, there's a simple truth that you're likely in the process of discovering: a horse is an accident looking for a place to happen. Cats might have nine lives, and dogs a nose for getting into trouble, but horses are in a class all their own when it comes to needing nursing. It seems they're always coming in from the field with a knee the size of a cantaloupe after a well-placed kick from a pasture mate; or tearing their hides open on a protruding nail you swear wasn't there yesterday; or getting their corneas scratched in an altercation with a thorn bush. If you haven't memorized your veterinarian's phone number by now, trust me, you will.

If you want to look on the positive side of the equine propensity for injury, just think how it's sharpening your emergency first aid skills. A couple of years of horse ownership makes most of us very experienced at wrapping legs, hosing wounds, and giving injections (even if the very sight of a needle and syringe used to make you faint dead away!). Along the way, we tend to acquire cabinets full of antibiotic lotions and potions, rolls of bandages in every conceivable length, size, and stretchiness, and various other bottles and daubers and jars of "stuff" for treating minor crises. Yet with all the clutter, when we do need something specific for an emergency, we often can't find it!

Some Handy Extras

Here are a few items that might not fit in your first aid kit's container, but which are helpful to have around:

A twitch -- to divert your horse's attention while you doctor his injuries.

A clean fly mask, to protect an injured eye.

An Easyboot or poultice boot, to keep a hoof or coronet injury clean.

A couple of clean buckets designated only for first aid use.

Hoof testers, which can help you diagnose a foot-related lameness.

Material for a splint -- PVC pipe, one to two feet long, split lengthwise, can be used on top of a leg wrap to support a leg that has suffered a fracture or severe tendon strain until your veterinarian arrives. (Ask your veterinarian for advice on how to safely apply a splint before the emergency occurs.)

A spider bandage, useful for wrapping awkward areas like knees or hocks -- it consists of a large rectangle of cotton material, torn along two edges to form 20 or more little "tails." The tails are knotted or braided together to provide a bandage with some flexibility over the joint. (Spider bandages also take some skill to apply; practice on a healthy horse first.)

A snake bite kit, if you live in an area where snakes are a problem.

A wound cream with fly repellent properties, such as Swat.

A tube of diaper rash cream, such as Desitin, to protect heels from the moisture that can cause dew poisoning (a.k.a. scratches).

A tail wrap.

"Second skin" collagen bandages -- these are expensive, but get rave reviews from horse owners who've used them to protect minor wounds.

Bute, or phenylbutazone, a mild non-steroidal pain medication that comes in pill, powder, or paste form.

A pocket first aid guide, such as Dr. Kellon's Guide To First Aid for Horses, by Eleanor Kellon, DVM.

If you're comfortable with the technique of giving intra-muscular injections, it's useful to keep a couple of injectable medications on hand as well. These drugs should be administered only in consultation with your veterinarian; never try to self-diagnose. (Check with your veterinarian about their storage requirements, too -- some medications need to be refrigerated.)

That said, two injectables that are extremely useful to have around are Banamine (flunixin megalumine), which can be used to ease the discomfort of colic, and Acepromazine, a tranquilizer that can make an injured horse easier to work with. (Acepromazine suspension, incidentally, can be administered orally; ask your vet for dosage instructions.) You might want to keep on hand a bottle of long-acting injectable penicillin, which is useful for combating minor infections. Again, don't self-diagnose your horse; seek your veterinarian's advice before giving any medications.

If you have injectables on your farm, you'll also need sterile needles and syringes, which you can get from your veterinarian, feed store, or pharmacy. Make sure you know appropriate dosages for these medications, what gauge needle you should use, and under no circumstances re-use syringes or needles.

One for the Barn, Two for the Road

Having all of these handy first aid materials available at the barn is fine and dandy, but they'll do you no good if you find yourself with an injured horse at a horse show or out on the trail. So consider assembling a second first aid kit that will stay in your truck or horse trailer, and a mini-kit to take with you when you're going on a long ride. The latter can contain just the basics, for both horses and humans -- Band-Aids, gauze, a Vetrap bandage, sunblock, a hoofpick, acetaminophen, a small pair of scissors -- and either a cell phone, or at least some quarters for the nearest phone booth should you need to summon help.

You can assemble such a kit in a fanny pack or a small bag that can hang from your saddle dees (if you ride English) or the horn (if you ride Western).

Any first aid kit should include a sturdy card with emergency phone numbers -- your veterinarian, your farrier, the closest veterinary and human hospital, a horse rescue or ambulance service (if there is one in your area), the fire department, and the police. It's important to have an inventory, as well, that you can tape to the inside lid of your kit. Type a list of every ingredient in the kit, so you'll be able to see at a glance if it contains what you need. When you use up an item, cross it off the list -- then be sure to replace it! Otherwise, over time, you'll end up with a mostly empty container that will do you no good at all in a crisis. (Remember, too, that many drugs have expiration dates. Write those dates on your inventory checklist to make sure you're not keeping vials of useless medications.)

A final caution: even the best-equipped first aid kit is intended only to help you deal with minor injuries and health problems. You should not expect it to cover major medical crises. Any situation you can't quickly and confidently treat, consult your veterinarian immediately.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Stocking Your First Aid Kit

A barn’s first aid kit, with all the essentials in one place, is a great idea for any horse owner. Stored in a conspicuous spot, it’s at your fingertips the moment you discover the latest equine injury. You can buy a prepackaged first aid kit designed for horses (see the web site addresses at the end of the article for some companies that offer these kits), or you can assemble one yourself for relatively little money and a lot of peace of mind. Store your kit in an airtight, waterproof container to keep the materials sterile and ready to use—a large fishing tackle box or sewing box, with lots of little compartments, are options, or you could use a tight-sealing plastic kitchen container (the transparent kind will let you see at a glance whether it contains what you need). Get some bright red tape and mark the lid with a cross that will let even a stranger in your barn know its contents, then stock it with:

A rectal veterinary thermometer—the plastic digital kind is safer around the barn than a glass one, and gives faster readings.
A pair of safety scissors (with rounded ends so you don’t accidentally cut into your horse if you’re snipping off a bandage).
Another pair of small, sharp scissors, for suture removal.
A stethoscope (inexpensive ones can be purchased through medical supply stores or pharmacies for less than $30).
Self-sticking bandages such as Vetrap.
Gauze squares at least three inches by three inches (where horses are concerned, larger is better!).
Vaseline or another type of lubricating jelly (for the thermometer and for protecting the tender skin of your horse’s heels from chapping if you have to cold-hose a leg injury for several days).
Medical adhesive tape.
Gauze bandage such as Kling.
Some type of cold pack, for days when cold hosing a new injury just isn’t possible—chemical packs that create "instant cold" are available, although in a pinch you can use a bag of frozen peas from your freezer.
Stable bandages and quilts.
An antiseptic wound cream (yellow furacin ointment is a popular choice) and a spray-on wound treatment such as furazolidone or Topagen.
Hydrogen peroxide—its bubbling action is useful for cleaning dirt out of fresh wounds and for dealing with thrush (a fungal infection of the hooves), but don’t use it routinely on a healing wound as it will inhibit the healing process.
An antiseptic scrub such as Betadine (povidone-iodine, or "tamed" iodine) or Nolvasan (chlorhexidine).
Latex gloves.
A flashlight to help you see wounds in a gloomy stall at midnight.
A bottle of saline solution—useful for cleaning out wounds in delicate places like around the eyes. A bottle of contact lens saline solution with a squirt nozzle is perfect.
A roll of sterile cotton.
Pre-moistened alcohol swabs (you can find these at your pharmacy, individually wrapped)—good for cleaning small wounds or creating a cleaner site for injections.
A bottle of rubbing alcohol, for sterilizing instruments.
Forceps or tweezers, for removing splinters, ticks, or other nasties.
Epsom salts (magnesium sulfate)—mix with warm water to soak an abscessed foot.
Iodine shampoo—good for various skin conditions, as directed by your vet.
A quick-to-apply poultice such as Animalintex (which can be used hot or cold).
Thick sanitary napkins (the obstetrical pads you can get at a hospital or pharmacy are good) or disposable diapers, for applying direct pressure to a bleeding wound.
A hoof pick—you can never have too many.
A farrier’s rasp and nippers, for removing a shoe if you need to (ask your farrier if he has cast-off ones he can donate to your cause).
A hoof knife.
Duct tape—useful in any emergency, and especially good for hoof wraps, as it’s water-resistant, moldable, and fairly durable.
Along with all of these items for treating your horse, it’s also an excellent idea to keep a first aid kit designed for humans in your barn. These are readily available in pharmacies, or you can assemble your own. Some of the items in your equine first aid kit, such as tweezers, medical tape, and gauze, can do double duty, but you should have some antibiotic cream, sunblock, Band-Aids, and aspirin or acetaminophen for minor aches and pains—plus any allergy medication that your barn residents might require.
 
#22 ·
WOW!!
Thsi is a good thread!!
I have a HUGE first aid kit, i cant even begin to list what is in it, but almost all of the things in the previous list.
My horse first aid kit is bigger than my human one at home!! And growing all the time!!
I went to the local riding club on the weekend and a horse hurt itself and i was the ONLY person there with a kit! Lucky horse!!
 
#23 ·
Great thread. My first vet kit was sooooo small. I bought a little plastic case to keep the items in. It had a thermometer, alcohol, antibiotic ointment, vet wrap and that's about it. Now I have stuff stacked everywhere in the tack room, plus I bought an extra bucket and filled it when I was getting ready for our foal to be born. I need to get better organized with all the stuff because it's here and there and everywhere!! So probably a good sized container (that closes to keep dust out) to keep it all in would be a good idea!
 
#25 ·
Xanadu said:
Great thread. My first vet kit was sooooo small. I bought a little plastic case to keep the items in. It had a thermometer, alcohol, antibiotic ointment, vet wrap and that's about it. Now I have stuff stacked everywhere in the tack room, plus I bought an extra bucket and filled it when I was getting ready for our foal to be born. I need to get better organized with all the stuff because it's here and there and everywhere!! So probably a good sized container (that closes to keep dust out) to keep it all in would be a good idea!
We're gonna need a storage cabinet!!! :shock:
 
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