soles looked decent, but I figured comming from a bad farrier that had done 3 trims on them, its going to take this guy at least 3 trims to get them back on track. Is that good reasoning or should he have gotten it right on the first go round?
The "before" pics present nothing I'd be proud of but the after shots, particularly the shoeing work, is little better.
Biggest problem in both before and after is failure to address dorsal/palmar distortion of the hoof capsule. Those pics presenting the "after" shoe work I would grade as "poor" at best. The hooves left bare are slightly better.
You mention that the first farrier is a jouneyman II level certification. Important note for all readers.
A "journeyman II" is nomenclature used by the BWFA (brotherhood of working farriers). This is NOT the same "journeyman" certification a farrier earns from the AFA (American Farrier's Association). There's a BIG difference. The BWFA is an organization started by Ralph Casey down in Georgia. To say their certifications are questionable would be an understatement. In my opinion, the ONLY credible certification offerings for farriers in the United States are presented by the AFA, the Guild of Professional Farriers and the NB ELPO group.
While there are competent BWFA certified farriers ( I know a few), their competency has little or nothing to do with the BWFA.
I think the toughest part of picking farriers is owner knowledge of good versus mediocre versus poor work. Most owners simply don't have a good understanding of what constitutes quality work. To be honest, I think a lot of farriers struggle with this too. I know I had a lot of problems until I started traveling to find guys that could help me understand the nuances of quality work and how to deliver on that quality. I still struggle every day with delivering the best quality I can but at least I now have a better understanding of the basics. While these won't win any awards they might give you some sense of what to look for in basic quality workmanship.
The shoe should fit the non-distorted foot. Put the metal where you want the foot to be; not necessarily where the foot is.
High nails are good nails. Nails should reach up about 1/3 the height of the hoof wall. While not always possible, it's a good goal, lessons the chance of a pulled shoe and lessons the damage should a horse pull a shoe. Getting good nails is really tough and takes a LOT of practice. With some feet, it just isn't possible but one should still make every effort.
Caudal support is important, both in length and width. Slight expansion should be allowed for.
Clip fit and nail clinches should be close or fitted into the wall. Hot fitting helps accomplish this. So does a clinch gouge.
A slight radius of the distal wall is useful in preventing chipped feet on a barefoot horse but don't get carried away with the "mustang roll" thing. Leave enough distal wall to accommodate shoes/nailing should the horse need it later.
Dress the walls! Remove dorsal dishing and any flares at the quarters. Try to achieve a reasonably straight hoof/pastern angle. Not always possible, dependent upon conformation of the animal, but it's a good goal and delivers optimal bio-mechanical efficiency. This is one area where I see a lot of farriers and trimmers failing to meet minimum.
Spend some time looking at the shape/circumference of the coronary and comparing it to the distal wall/whiteline of the hoof. While the coronary is smaller in circumference, it does define the shape of the distal hoof. The hoof is essentially a geometric cone and should reflect the straight line growth and structural integrity of that dimension.
Does that help?