When to put out fescue?? - Page 2
 
 

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When to put out fescue??

This is a discussion on When to put out fescue?? within the Horse Health forums, part of the Keeping and Caring for Horses category

     
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        11-12-2009, 09:24 AM
      #11
    Weanling
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Production Acres    
    The fescue you are sowing is called "Tall Fescue". It has nothing to do with whether or not you mow it or let it go to seed. It is differentiated from "creeping fescue" a type of lawn grass.
    Yeah I had thought that too, but was not sure so did not want to say anything. The fungus gets onto the fescue regardless of whether or not it grows tall. Frankly, doing all the research of which fescue to use is not worth the trouble in my opinion just use another grass type. There are plenty of other grasses out there that do not have this problem.
         
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        11-12-2009, 10:32 AM
      #12
    Foal
    Sorry, did not realize there are soooooooo many types of fescue. I have been doing some research the last few days. Also, I never said I was sowing Tall Fescue, just fescue. I have found out that our local store can mix several kinds of grass recommended for our area and for what we are feeding.

    Thanks everyone for your replies.
         
        11-12-2009, 02:56 PM
      #13
    Weanling
    1. Judging from the lack of pasture in your paddock, you have your animals in a high traffic condition. Meaning you probably don't have the horses stocked at 1 amu/ 10 acres. You may be closer to 1amu/acre. (I am not trying to slander, just quantify what I am saying) When you have high traffic conditions, the #1 concern in sowing a grass is its ability to withstand traffic! 90% of the grasses in Horse pasture mixes don't withstand traffic very well. Orchardgrass and Timothy are prime examples of poor grasses to sow in high traffic conditions. Bermudagrass is a good high traffic grass. The #1 high traffic grass that exists (to my knowledge) is Tall fescue (endophyte infected) The endophyte exists in a symbiotic relationship with the grass and is the reason it performs so well in adverse conditions. If you sow a tall fescue E- such as max-q, 1. You cannot tell when fescue e+ has crept into your field, 2. It doesn't perform any better than orchardgrass so what was the point, 3. It is expensive.
    2. Horse pasture mixes are designed to make the seed salesman money.
    3. The best thing you can do in high traffic situations for horse paddocks is 1. Lime, 2. Fertilize according to soil test, 3. Sow some fescue E+, 4. Sow some red and white clover, 5. Drill in small grains occasionally.
         
        11-12-2009, 07:28 PM
      #14
    Showing
    ^^^ good information That was my problem with so many of the "Horse Mixes" you can get at supply stores. They contain sort of blanket grasses like orchard that supposedly will do well in my area but in reality do not.
    Again, I think the best bet is to contact your county agent, get that soil test done and have them recommend the best plan for your area and pasture use.
    Good luck with it, just remember it does take time. You might want to set up a sacrifice lot while you are getting your grass established as well.
    I have a soil test done every year and fertilize accordingly.
         

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