Worming horses. - The Horse Forum

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post #1 of 13 Old 09-22-2011, 11:56 PM Thread Starter
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Worming horses.

All of my horses are due for worming. I want to be sure I get all the stages and clean them up good for the winter so I won't have many problems. One possibly has bloodworms not sure about him. The other ones are fat and healthy. The only exception is my OTTB who I don't believe will ever get fat enough.. He's hot enough as it is , he don't need any more feed. My question is what could I use for them that is almost or as effective as a powerpack but not super expensive because with 5 horses it adds up and we are having to hay early this year. Thanks!
Also, any ideas for my TB to cover those ribs a little more? He's got a big belly just his ribs still show. Don't want him getting hot, I already have problems with him at times. Need to keep weight on him which is going to be harder through the winter so it'd be nice to find something that actually works!
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post #2 of 13 Old 09-23-2011, 12:02 AM
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First I'd take stool samples to the vet to find out what types of worms you may have and what to treat for. What makes you think the one horse has 'blood worms' aka Large Stongyles?

If your horse has a big belly and is ribby, chances are he's wormy and once you've got them dewormed properly, he may start picking up weight on his own. If he needs extra calories, then I'd feed him Purina Ultium Competition formula, it's high fat and formulated to not make them hot. Protein and fat don't make them hot, carbs (sugar, molasses) do. I feed Purina Strategy GX to my Arabians and if anyone needs extra I give them Ultium. I never feed sweet feed of any kind.

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post #3 of 13 Old 09-23-2011, 12:05 AM
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Bloodworms?

Sounds like your horse(s) need(s) a thorough vet exam. Run a fecal to check for parasites and choose the proper deworming protocol based on that. You absolutely cannot choose effectively without performing that test. The fact that your horse is ribby shows that something isn't working.

For gaining weight, not more grain. More hay. Unless there is an underlying physical issue which needs to be addressed first. Do blood work, float the teeth.
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post #4 of 13 Old 09-23-2011, 02:46 PM Thread Starter
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The TB has had his teeth floated a few months ago, I believe one may have bloodworms because we saved him from a dirt pen he was in with two horses that were scrawny and horrible looking. He looks better than they did but still. I figured it wouldn't hurt to clean him up real good. I was just wondering what wormers work best for all the different stages. I figured I would use 10 cc ivermectin on the healthy looking QHs. And then maybe ivermectin and then quest on the TB. Could I do the same with the QH I got from that dirt pen? Or should I do a whole powerpack on him? Would ivermectin and quest a few weeks later work all the same?
I had the vet look at my TB and he said he's better off being a little skinny than acting how he was. He's calmed down a lot since we've taken some feed away but the way he looks saddens me.
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post #5 of 13 Old 09-23-2011, 07:46 PM
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Your vet said your horse is better off skinny than acting "hot?"

Sounds like time for a second opinion. Crazy.
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post #6 of 13 Old 09-24-2011, 07:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shortysmalls View Post
I had the vet look at my TB and he said he's better off being a little skinny than acting how he was. He's calmed down a lot since we've taken some feed away but the way he looks saddens me.
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Your vet said he would rather see him skinny?
I think it's time to get another opinion. If the way he looks right now saddens you than put him on more forage. What is your TB getting right now food wise?

As for the worms, definitely get a vet out and run a fecal that's the only way you'll know what the right wormer is.
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post #7 of 13 Old 09-24-2011, 04:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dreamcatcher Arabians View Post
First I'd take stool samples to the vet to find out what types of worms you may have and what to treat for. What makes you think the one horse has 'blood worms' aka Large Stongyles?

If your horse has a big belly and is ribby, chances are he's wormy and once you've got them dewormed properly, he may start picking up weight on his own. If he needs extra calories, then I'd feed him Purina Ultium Competition formula, it's high fat and formulated to not make them hot. Protein and fat don't make them hot, carbs (sugar, molasses) do. I feed Purina Strategy GX to my Arabians and if anyone needs extra I give them Ultium. I never feed sweet feed of any kind.

Sound advice
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post #8 of 13 Old 09-24-2011, 05:33 PM
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First you do not worm a horse you de worm them.

Second like has been said you MUST do a fecal. With out one you are only adding to the problem of resistance in horses. If they do not need to be de-wormed then do not de-worm them.

Feeding less does nothing to change how a horse acts. It is what you are feeding and working a horse. Taking food a way from a thin horse does not calm him down but just takes away what he needs. He has calmed down b/c he is lacking nutrition. Not a good thing. Get a good vet who knows about equine nutrition and get on a good feed.

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post #9 of 13 Old 09-24-2011, 06:11 PM
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You may want to check on adding corn oil to his diet. This helped me put weight on my TB. You need to start out less then increase it over days, but I am up to 2 cups at one sitting once a day. Pour it over something yummy!

Oh and I use Ultium also, but seems the oil put it on faster.

Last edited by nvr2many; 09-24-2011 at 06:13 PM. Reason: added content
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post #10 of 13 Old 09-24-2011, 07:15 PM
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When I bo't my Shetland mare she was chunky as they were bred to be but in mid summer she was pretty hairy but in good flesh. I called the seller to learn when she'd last be dewormed. He laughed and said to look at her that she didn't need it. I promply dewormed her and within three weeks she was dumping her old winter coat and her summer coat as the new winter was growing. She was dewormed a few more times over the winter and her new summer coat was beautiful.
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