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dressage arena is finally under way!

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  • Dressage arena fencing ideas
  • Dressage arena surface fall

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    02-06-2012, 10:03 PM
  #11
Started
That is so awesome CHS! I am extremely jealous! I want a jumping arena really, really bad, but for now I just jump in the woods, and dodge the trees
     
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    02-07-2012, 01:33 PM
  #12
Green Broke
Super cool! I'm trying to get an arena too. Atleast you already had a nice area.
     
    02-07-2012, 01:52 PM
  #13
Trained
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gallop On    
That is so awesome CHS! I am extremely jealous! I want a jumping arena really, really bad, but for now I just jump in the woods, and dodge the trees
Not wanting to be a Debbie Downer, but that is dangerous, I was there when a friend failed to completely dodge a tree and hit it full on with her knee, that wasn't good.
     
    02-07-2012, 01:58 PM
  #14
Trained
Congrats, CHS!! What are you going to use to surface drain? On top are you considering sand?...chewed up rubber (Re-cycled tires)?...something else? I'm interested. =D
Are you going to leave the sides open? Are you thinking about chains with the letters? I think I would consider treated recycled RR ties--Menard's sells them, $10/piece...something else?
Gotta take pictures to share as it comes together. **sigh**
     
    02-07-2012, 02:22 PM
  #15
Foal
Wow, that looks wonderful! Haha, doesn't it always seem that things are a yearlong battle? ;) At least you got your way! I bet it will look spiffy when it's all finished and fenced off. What are you considering for a fence?

I'm curious as to how to keep the grass edge from encroaching again, though. Hand tilling? Or is it a property of the eventual fill, grass suppression? Sorry for the questions, inquiring minds and all, heh!
     
    02-07-2012, 02:24 PM
  #16
Started
Quote:
Originally Posted by Corporal    
Congrats, CHS!! What are you going to use to surface drain? On top are you considering sand?...chewed up rubber (Re-cycled tires)?...something else? I'm interested. =D
Are you going to leave the sides open? Are you thinking about chains with the letters? I think I would consider treated recycled RR ties--Menard's sells them, $10/piece...something else?
Gotta take pictures to share as it comes together. **sigh**
thanks guys
Hopefully I may get sand but we arent going to spend a fortune but I need a area to train in when it has been raining without spending a fortune.
Probably not chain as such as they are dangeous if a horse decides to play up.i do have letters and they will be put up when the base is done. Then hopefully I can get something like this done with a top rail and a middle rail.. with the rubber is that like 10 bucks for shreaded rubber.. how much??

I sure will put up pictures when its done!
     
    02-07-2012, 02:27 PM
  #17
Started
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pineapples    
Wow, that looks wonderful! Haha, doesn't it always seem that things are a yearlong battle? ;) At least you got your way! I bet it will look spiffy when it's all finished and fenced off. What are you considering for a fence?

I'm curious as to how to keep the grass edge from encroaching again, though. Hand tilling? Or is it a property of the eventual fill, grass suppression? Sorry for the questions, inquiring minds and all, heh!
seing we put it on a slope it does have a fall on it so that is where the grass is growing. Im undecided whether to plant ( seeing I can't spell it ) - kycura grass or leaving it that soft powdered dirt. Im just thinking that the grass may provide cushioning
     
    02-07-2012, 02:51 PM
  #18
Super Moderator
I wouldn't take the clay out and put topsoil in. The top soil will not make a good base. Anything you put on it will mix in. Here are some ideas;

Sub-Base
The consistency of the soil plays a big part in the sub-base at the foundation of your arena. Scientists have identified more than 10,000 different kinds of soil; sandy soils are vulnerable to runoff, while clay-based soils are more stable and harder. Your sub-base should have a slight crown at its center, or be rolled with a 1-to-2- percent grade to allow for runoff.

Base
The base is laid directly on top of the sub-base, just beneath the footing itself. It's often composed of crushed stone, then rolled flat and sealed with chip and seal (the same process used to construct rural roads).

Arena Design
The footing material you choose should be loose, and provide good drainage. If you plan to surround your arena with sod, it's a good idea to line the base and footing area with a pressure-treated board. This keeps the base from shifting under the constant weight of the horses plodding along the rail. Another option is to extend your base and footing beyond your rail or fence. A 20-foot walk track on the outside of your arena provides a cushion for the shifting of the base and footing. The arena's design will impact your footing depth. If you choose the board option, make the footing 2 to 4 inches thick, while an arena with a 20-foot walk track should have footing 3 to 6 inches thick.

Sand Footing
Sand deeper than 6 inches can be dangerous for your horses' tendons. Sand breaks down and compacts over time, so start with a 2-inch depth and be prepared to add material regularly over time (ideally in one-half inch increments). Sand also has a tendency to dry out. Products such as Arena RX (available from Midwest Industrial Supply) coat the particles and reduce or eliminate dust.

Rubber Footing
Rubber does not degrade, and its dark color reduces surface glare on a sunny day. It also absorbs the heat from the sun, keeping the footing thawed on a sunny winter day. Mixing rubber with sand retains these benefits while keeping the footing from becoming too hot. Add 2 pounds of rubber per square foot of sand. The rubber will float in heavy rain; reintegrate it into the sand by dragging the arena with a flat board so as not to damage your carefully prepared base. Buy rubber footing from a horse footing supplier to avoid footing with remaining metal or other foreign materials that may injure your horse.

Topsoil Footing
Although topsoil may seem inexpensive at first, maintaining it is very time consuming. Soil dries out very easily, creating severe dust problems. Soil containing a large percentage of clay is slippery in the rain, and will dry to a very hard surface. In addition, some soils do not drain well, remaining wet for long periods of time. The problem of drainage can be mitigated by adding more than 50 percent sand to the topsoil, but it still needs to be disked daily to maintain a pleasant riding surface.
Corporal and BaileyJo like this.
     
    02-07-2012, 05:03 PM
  #19
Started
Quote:
Originally Posted by Golden Horse    
Not wanting to be a Debbie Downer, but that is dangerous, I was there when a friend failed to completely dodge a tree and hit it full on with her knee, that wasn't good.
Your not Yes, I know it isnt the safest thing, and truthfully, its more of a "shute" that I jump in. Its a line without trees, but their are trees surrounding, and a few in the way. I have no where else to ride, and can't afford an arena
     
    02-07-2012, 05:40 PM
  #20
Trained
This is as far as we got with it last year, a flat (ish) area roped off. Fine in the dry, but can't ride in it at all when wet as our 'soil' just turns to a slime which is lethally slippery



I'm hoping to move to one of the old cow pens this year, with a better surface, and enclosed.
     

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