Overall, for never taking a lesson, you aren't doing too bad.
However, there are ALWAYS things we can improve on as riders. ALWAYS.
And you can either be that
person on the trail ride who clearly doesn't know anything and does not
want to learn .... or you can be the better rider who is open to learning and improving
I agree with the others about your stiffness in the legs and body.
And I agree that you are being very confusing to your horse. Watching the video, you almost NEVER take the pressure off the reins. As a result, your horse is throwing her head, sticking out her nose, and is very stiff. And she's getting frustrated with YOU. You won't give her any relief from the rein pressure, and she's expressing her discontent.
If you won't go get lessons to teach this horse how to be SOFT in the bridle and give to the bit, then at least try to watch a few of these. These are not the best videos in the world, but the ones I could find with a quick YouTube search.
These 3 by Ken McNabb are excellent (I think). He goes through many different types of bits and explains what each one does. But pay close attention to how SOFT his horses are in the face. This is what you should try to work toward with your horse.
Remember: When doing things with the bit (or anything in general), the very instant you horse "gives" to the pressure, you MUST release immediately. That's the horse's reward for doing something correct. And that's what makes (and keeps) a horse soft.
So work on releasing those reins more when your horse responds softly to your hands. Right now, she's getting upset with you and your constant "nagging".
i got bucked because the horse was being a brat, she does that sometimes.
Actually, you got bucked because YOU were frustrating her and annoying her and confusing her with your conflicting body and hand signals. You weren't rewarding her for anything she was doing right, so she had to do the only thing she could do = buck.
she was also prancing a lot too. She stops when she gets tired out.
She shouldn't be making the decisions (ie stopping when she is tired). YOU should be making the decisions. Don't allow her to get away with it.
the field is right in back of the barn and well.. she also wants to go back which also leads to her side stepping- a problem even her owner, an experienced rider who has had horses all her life, can't fix.
I'm a no-name horse person. I'm not a professional trainer, and I don't claim to be. But I bet I could "cure" her of wanting to go back to the barn and side stepping because of it. It's all about consistency, and being FIRM.
As I kinda eluded to above, it does not mean anything for how many years you've been involved with horses to make you "experience". What matters, is what you have DONE in those years to LEARN and make yourself a better rider. I do not mean to put-down your friend in anyway, but just because she's had horses her entire life does not mean she knows how to correctly deal with them.
Like I say: There's those who stay stuck in their ways. And then there are those who are always changing, learning, asking, and improving.
if I loosened the reins in the field, she wold go toward the barn as said above. Thais is why I keep them a little tight.
Don't keep them tight to prevent her from making a mistake. Let your horse make a mistake!! That is how they learn --> when the rider corrects them.
Let her start to drift toward the barn. Then give her a good outside leg kick to move her butt back over to where you asked her to go in the first place. Go ahead and make a circle near the barn over and over and over again. Every time she tries to drift, correct her. Eventually, she'll get the hint that she ain't going back to the barn until you say so.
me and my friend used to ride bareback and with halters and lead ropes in the pen, but we stopped after her horse bucket her off.
...... Just curious .... is this the same "experienced" friend you spoke of earlier?
ok, ok I will admit I used to much crop when she bucked, but what you don't see is that she was also prancing instead of walking before the video (meaning for her that she has energy and she IS got to try stuff like that) I trot her when she is "ready" to canter and she cuts all the testing and relaxes, but some times she will do things like that even when she has calmed down. What you don't see is that when she is tired she will not respond to kicking all the time, if you tap her with the crop at that point she does listen. Just because you ride western doesnt mean you can't use a crop :/
I do believe that crops have their place in riding. However, in this particular case, I myself would NOT use a crop. I feel that if I can't get my horse to MOVE with my body, then I shouldn't be on the horse. That's my opinion. Because .... if she ignores your legs now when she is tired, what are you going to do when she starts to ignore the crop too?
Some horses do need crops to keep them going and that is what this horse needs.
In my opinion, this horse needs a better rider -- not a crop. I do not mean that to come off as harsh or rude (kudos for you to come on here and ask for advice!!
) but I think if you try to fix these rider issues we are pointing out, you will find your horse will start listening better if she's not confused and frustrated with your riding.
I also need to keep the reins snug to keep her going where I want her to go, if I made one looser she would get out of line, and try to go home.
Can you re-read the section I bolded? Does it make sense to you to be pulling
on the reins when you are asking your horse to go forward
No, it does not make sense to have pressure on the reins when you are asking your horse to go forward. Again, hence why your horse gets "pissy" and is frustrated with you.
Again, go ahead and let your reins loose and LET her make a mistake. Then correct her. She'll probably try again right after that. That's okay. Correct her again. Patience and consistency are key.
Not all westerns neck rein.
True, not all horses neck rein, but this goes back to the same idea I've been talking about. Do you want to stay stuck in your current way of riding? Or do you want to grow and improve?
If you want to grow and improve, neck reining is an advanced manavaur that your horse should know, because you've taught her.
On the trails I have loose reins but when doing ring work I have to keep her going in the way I want her to, if I don't have then snug she will not listen. They aren't tight, they are just enought so she know I am 'there'.
YOU being on her back should be all she needs to know.
Your weight/body cues should always come BEFORE a rein cue. The reins are just a "back up".