eating on a hack - Page 2 - The Horse Forum
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post #11 of 16 Old 06-03-2013, 11:35 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: southern Arizona
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Our BLM mustang pony considers the desert to be an "All You Can Eat Buffet". But he weighs perhaps 700 lbs and eats on the go.

One rein pulling works well. I think it is a bad habit for a horse to get into, overall. I will sometimes turn my horse's head to a mesquite tree, so it can stop and grab a little to eat - but I need to be the one turning their head. It is my choice, not theirs.

For the OP: Hacking alone, there is a lot to be said for an Australian style saddle. The Mickey Mouse ears on the front (poleys) are wonderful if your horse makes a sudden stop, falls forward, or tries to spin. With my eyes closed, it feels like my Bates AP saddle.

In the picture below, you can see a folded leather rein in one of the D-rings, then wrapped around the horn. My horse doesn't need it often, but it doesn't get in the way and is waiting there for the 3-4 times a year when I think it is useful.



Where the poleys go against the thigh:


tinyliny likes this.

"Make the right thing easy and the wrong thing...well, ignore it mostly."

Last edited by bsms; 06-03-2013 at 11:37 AM.
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post #12 of 16 Old 06-03-2013, 12:26 PM
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OP how old are you, and what breed is the horse?

When you say that the grass reins snapped, where you using baling twine or shop-bought grass reins?

This information would be useful to help you more.

Apart from that, as has been said you should yank his head up with one rein rather than struggling pulling at two. And you need to be more pro-actively looking ahead for nice patches of grass and tightening your grip on the reins to prevent it happening. But depending on the answer to my first question, I appreciate that you might not have the strength to do that successfully.
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Get up, get going, seize the day. Enjoy the sunshine, the rain, cloudy days, snowstorms, and thunder. Getting on your horse is always worth the effort.
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post #13 of 16 Old 06-03-2013, 12:47 PM
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get you some western spurs., His head goes below horizontal lay the spurs to him. He'll learn. At basic levels Never ever ever let your horse eat or drink under saddle. If he needs a water or grass brake, dismount. Thats pretty much how I trained my chow hound that would go to nearest clover patch and stop. Then you play the pulling on head game. Need to elevate the leverage. That horse is much stronger than you. In a battle of strength he'll win. You need to elevate the correction. Either one rein him up as has been mentioned, hit him with spurs to urge him forward or use a crop.

Now if you are a long distance or endurance rider, you teach your horse to eat or drink on command. I use verbal. But I dont let my horse eat any time he wants. Only when I say so. For the average rider there really is no reason to let your horse eat under saddle. Much easier to teach a horse Never, than it is to teach sometimes.
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post #14 of 16 Old 06-03-2013, 01:50 PM Thread Starter
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I'm 15 and Arthur is a gypsy vanner thing although he is 17hh so I don't think he actually fits in the specifications, I don't know what that makes him haha
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post #15 of 16 Old 06-03-2013, 01:59 PM Thread Starter
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Oh and they were store bought reins
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post #16 of 16 Old 06-03-2013, 09:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tinyliny View Post
I want to restate that if you want to resist a horse that is trying to pull the reins out of your hand, pulling back with both reins will only give the horse some to lean into. you must use one rein much harder than the other, and if he resists that, pull that rein straight UP, not back toward yourself.

you may have equal connection on both reins as you ride along, but if he dives, you use ONE rein to break his pull. If he's trotting along, this will make him come to a stop and move into a tight circle, so sit up straight in the saddle and be ready for this. when he stops leaning on the bit, you give him some rein and ask him to move on.

Don't do trots or canters out on the hack until this issue is a non-issue.
I want to reiterate here - one rein for correction but try not to lose the second rein to him. I was told to use direct reining, the purpose of which is this - direct reining is more about my being in charge of what we do. Not the two of us sauntering along western style.

But it's not aggressive meaning making my horse feel my power at all times. It's assertive and proactive meaning I have a purpose for you and when I want you to do it - this is what I want. So when the horse is doing what it should, reins are slack and the horse knows it's acting correctly. When I want to move or change directions, etc, I use aids to let him know including reins if he's not responding to my seat/leg alone. first in a whisper, then I speak, then I assert.

If you want my advice it's this: you shouldn't be going faster than a walk and you shouldn't be riding alone. THis is a big horse. He knows he's big. You're young and I have a feeling he thinks he's in charge. You might want to have someone with you to help you with this - someone who's knowledgable or a trainer to show you how to deal with his issues quickly and safely. This may not be quick - his re-education. So it needs to be safe for both of you. My concern reading your responses is safety.

Good luck. :)

-Cynthia
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