Horse Fencing - Page 2 - The Horse Forum
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post #11 of 15 Old 08-12-2010, 12:24 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by A knack for horses View Post
To answer your question, you would have to ask the fencing people at tsc, but I believe a stake is a stake, and it should work as long as it is the proper length
Okay. I appreciate your assistance! :)

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post #12 of 15 Old 08-13-2010, 12:36 PM
Join Date: May 2010
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I got my fence from TSC, I used 8' T-post and put them 8' apart. When I put up the fence I used the T-post to measure the 8' by laying it down then just picking it up and pounding it in the ground. I have had no trouble with the spacing, but they are deep in the ground. Then I have two strands of electric high visibility wire, with flags we made from old bed sheets tied to the fence in between the post to help the horses see it.

I also have a spring gate, that has been a bit of a problem. My daughters pony is smart and will actually time the clicking of the fencer and run under the spring gate with out getting zapped, so I had to put up two springs, the bottom about 5" off the ground to keep him from going under it. I am going to get a steal gate soon to replace the spring gate. The spring gates are cheap but inconvenient, so a I think a steal gate is worth the extra coin.

When I have the money to burn though, I want to put up a nice wood railing fence.
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post #13 of 15 Old 08-13-2010, 01:25 PM
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I have always said that the best fence is one that the horses never touches. All my fencing around the property line and several other pastures are all RAMM fencing with Hot wire. Several of the middle areas are divided up with just hot wire. I find that hot wire works well. Although 98% of the time it is not on. The horses including the stallions respect the fence and do not try to go through it. I can put my stallion in an area with just a string and he will not test it.

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post #14 of 15 Old 08-13-2010, 03:57 PM
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We use vinal fencing, and we LOVE it! It gives a little in case a horse runs into it, you never have to re-tighten it like wire fencing, and it never rots away like wood will. It's easy to replace and pop a board back in if a horse kicks and breaks it, and the only mantince is power washing it once a year :)

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post #15 of 15 Old 08-14-2010, 12:01 PM
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I am also looking into fencing options as we are in the middle of a pending purchase on an acreage. From what I have found and what I have experienced is the following:

Fencing needs to provide both a physical and a psychological barrier. It is better that the horses perceive the fence to be a solid barrier than they physically test it. Wide bands (4" or so) of flat, re-enforced PVC fencing in an obvious color will do this as will rails or boards.

Electric fencing is very effective, but the type of conducting material is a consideration. Visible, flat braided strands are better than rope or narrow strands. They will break relatively easily, but they won't cut your horse. Electric fencing used with either step in plastic posts or PVC posts is also very mobile and a great way to subdivide your pasture. This will allow you to preserve and manage the grazing space by rotating the areas your horse are out on.

Galvanized wire or square field fencing with larger squares can still be dangerous. I've had more than one horse put their feet through the fence pawing at the other side and end up cutting themselves quite badly.

When building a fence, try not to give your horse reason to reach through it. Keep the perimeter mowed, and ensure their food supply is well managed so they can graze (safely) most of the time.

I consider T-Bar fence posts to be temporary. Treated wood posts about 5-6" in diameter are better and safer. Make sure your posts are put in the ground deep enough or they will work themselves out. Also, re-enforce the corners well with braces. The post themselves can range from 6-12' apart, depending upon the type of fencing you intend to use. Buy the best posts you can afford, as this is the part of your fence that will remain in tact for the longest period of time.

Regardless of your fencing, your horses will need something to chew on and something to rub on. Make them a "scratching post" that is accessible so they don't use the fence for this purpose.

If you are pasturing horses in a smaller area or a region where grass is seasonal, consider including a "sacrifice" pen where you can contain your horses for winter feeding. Their hooves will do quite a lot of damage to a small pasture, especially when wet, causing you to lose good grazing space.

A mixed materials fence is ideal and reasonably cost-effective. I am considering a treated pole top rail as a physical barrier, with two or three additional strands of either PVC coated wire or electric tape underneath. As I can afford it, I plan to add the second and third rails with time.

Lastly, purchase good quality gates with good latches / fasteners. Metal tubular stock gates are ideal as they also come with a chain fastener. Make sure you have gates wide enough to get a tractor through in case you have to harrow, till or re-seed your pasture at a later time.

I hope this helps.
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