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Bit Information (Snaffle and English-Type Bits)

133K views 286 replies 97 participants last post by  Horsebitsgalore 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
English/Snaffle-Type Bit Information

Non-Port Mouthpieces

Mullen Mouth

This bit is especially mild, as it has no breaking points within the mouth. It is great for a horse with a low palate that cannot accommodate excessive bulk within the mouth. Its disadvantage is that it can have a very unrefined signal to the horse, as there are no independent sides to work off of.

Single Joint

A fairly mild mouthpiece with very slight independent action. Usually horses with low or shallow palates are going to be irritated by this mouthpiece. When put in action, the mouthpiece breaks at the single joint, flexing upwards into the palate and downwards onto the horse’s lips. Some horses do not like this type of contact, as it is quite sharp and can pinch at the horse’s tongue.

French Link

A very mild bit that has two joints. Having two joints eliminates the crackerjack action on the tongue, eliminates upward flexion, and has a more “full mouth” feel to it. This type of bit works well on horses with all varieties of palate heights. A favourite of many horses.

Berry/Oval/etc Mouth

Same “full mouth” feel that so many horses like so much. The shape and size of the link influences the breakover point on the tongue; the shorter the link, the more “single joint feel” you are going to have. Some horses prefer a longer breakover point/link, some a shorter link.

Sprenger mouthpiece

A very nice mild mouthpiece. This is a double joint bit, similar to an oval link, except that the center piece is rotated 45 degrees to the rest of the mouthpiece. Sprenger claims that this gives the bit a more anatomical bend to the bit so it sits nicer in the horse’s mouth.

Myler/ Billy Allen

Very nice mild mouthpiece. The barrel serves two functions: an anatomical curve without allowing the bit to collapse inwards, and independent side action. This bit cannot have a crackerjack action, as it does not collapse. The independent side action is common to all double joint bits, bit seems to be more refined in this mouthpiece. Really a nice, nice mouthpiece.

Dr. Bristol

Long, flat, angled double joint bit. A true Dr. Bristol will have the center link at a 45 degree angle to the rest of the mouthpiece. This angle and length of center piece makes the bit slightly more harsh than other double joint bits. It is designed for lots of tongue contact and pressure. I would recommend this only be used by an experienced rider.

Waterford

The ultimate in “full mouth feel.” This bit collapses at every link so you get direct contact on the horse’s entire mouth. Since it has so many links, horses with a shallow palate shouldn’t have a problem carrying this bit. The bit collapses at each link, so the idea is that the horse cannot grab onto the bit and take it too much in its mouth, as the side will just collapse under pressure. A con to this bit is that some horses really dislike a “full mouth” feel.

Icky Mouthpieces
(mouthpieces I think should require a test in skill before being sold to anyone)

Slow Twist

All the lovely advantages of a single joint (nutcracker action, palate protrusion) with the added bonus of a twist to the mouthpiece. The twist makes this bit more harsh, as the raised edges are rough on the horse’s lips.

Corkscrew

Like the slow twist, but with more raised edges, this bit is quite harsh. The raised edges irritate and hurt the horse’s lips.

Single Twisted Wire

Even harsher than the slow twist, it uses pain to get the horse to “pay attention.” The single joint crackerjacks on the tongue, the twist irritates and hurts the lips.

“I will hunt you down and torture you if you use these” Mouthpieces

Chain

This bit acts much like the Waterford in action, but the slim chain and roughness of the links makes it a harsh bit. Mostly seen in western events.

Double Twisted Offset Wire

This bit is very very harsh. You have two different mouthpieces protruding up into the palate at once, they both crackerjack on the tongue in different places, then two wires irritate and hurt the horse’s lips to “make it listen.”

Woodscrew

Very very very harsh, it utilizes pain to get the horse to yield to the rider’s will. If you have ever gripped a screw tight with your hand, you can appreciate the pain; imagine that against your lips.

Bike Chain/ Mule bit

Works off of nothing but pain for the horse. I had to mention this bit to make sure nobody mistakes it for a nice bit, ever.
 
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#87 ·
So I've got question. There's a snaffle at my lesson barn where the bit itself is a single joint but the cheek piece is shaped like a "P". It's not a cheek piece that you have listed. At the barn we call it the "P" snaffle. Is there an actual name for this cheek piece?

I don't currently have any pictures, if you need some I can get some.
 
#149 ·
It's a halfspoon snaffle (the ends looking like spoon handles) and is also used for riding. It's great if the horse/pony is inclined to open it's mouth and resist turning as the lower cheek prevents the bit sliding through and also applies soome pressure to the jaw to aid in turning. Also great for those that don't like the pressure against the side of the face/teeth.
 
#92 ·
Not sure how to search this thread to see if somebody already has a question like this one....

I am using an o ring snaffle for trail ridding. Dolly does fine until we are on the way back and she wants to hurry up. I can keep her in a walk/trot but when she canters I have a very hard time getting her to slow down. I turn her around and go the other way. Well my question is should I use a different bit? I feel like no matter how much I tell her to slow down she doesnt listen like the bit isnt there. I was told a wonder bit???
 
#93 ·
Hi Annie54, thanks for your question.
In your situation, a stronger bit will only frustrate your horse, and might cause a very unsafe situation. There are a lot of threads on this forum regarding slowing a horse down - it's all in training. You want your horse to listen to your seat and legs, and collect the energy with your reins. With a stronger bit, your horse might start tossing its head, or evading the bit completely, control of your horse's speed comes from the body; the head is just a hood ornament, more or less. I hope that helps! If I can think of some threads to help you, I'll link you to them.
 
#97 ·
A bit will only be a band-aid for the problem, and you'll find that you'll keep needing more and more severe bits. Using a bit to control a horse (especially for speed) is relying on pain to control the horse. Instead, you want to learn how to control the horse's energy with your own body, if that makes sense. Even riding once per week, if you're being consistent and have help to show you exactly what to do, you will see improvement.
 
#99 ·
Good news! I rode earlier for a little over an hour. I rode away from the barn toward the cotton field. I turned around before I was around the field and as soon as we are around the corner closest to the barn she starts to pick up speed so I turn her around and go away from the barn... I did this over and over only if she started to trot. I did some circles too. After about 45 minutes I got her to walk to the barn :D I feel like I have a lot more control over her now! Over all I think she did great!
 
#101 ·
Another Dressage/English Bit worth mentioning is the Baucher. It is a legal Dressage Bit. After experimenting with four other bits with my mare she really excelled with the Baucher. This bit is a true snaffle in that there is no leverage/shanks. It has about a 1 to 1 1/2 inch solid extension on the rein rings that the cheeks of the bridle go into adding a small amount of leverage to the poll.
 
#102 ·
candandy49, good point, I should have posted about the Baucher on the OP, and I might ask a Mod to edit that information in. However, from what I understand, the Baucher does not have any leverage; it doesn't have two fixed points to get leverage from. It is more like a full cheek in the sense that it's attached to the headstall, making the bit sit correctly in the mouth.
Please take my information on Bauchers with a grain of salt though, as I am not as informed as I would like to be on the action of that particular bit.
 
#103 ·
JustDressageIt, what I should have said is the Baucher has a fixed purchase on the bit. The purchase being the part of a bit that extends above the mouth piece like on a Western type curb bit or Pelham, i.e. With the Baucher there is slight poll pressure when the horse has bit contact or on the bit.

I used the Baucher with my QH mare when I decided to try going in a Dressage saddle and snaffle bridle with her. As an 8 year old when we became each others she had always been ridden Western and with a tiedown. The first time I tried riding her without the tiedown she flung her head until I could see the tip of her nose.:shock: After trying 4 other snaffles on her I found the Baucher. It worked like a charm with her.
 
#108 ·
Baucher has no leverage as the reins attach at the same level asn the mouthpiece and there is no curb chain - So nothing rotating the bit to make the purchase come into play. The arms above the bit only serve to keep the bit in a specific place in the mouth and keep it much stiller than other bits.
 
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