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Choosing a stronger bit....

This is a discussion on Choosing a stronger bit.... within the Horse Tack and Equipment forums, part of the Horse Tack category

     
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        11-04-2008, 11:11 PM
      #11
    Foal
    Sorry I guess I didn't answer much about being heavy on the bit over jumps, haven't jumped in a long time!
         
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        11-04-2008, 11:22 PM
      #12
    Showing
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Zappasowner    
    Sorry I guess I didn't answer much about being heavy on the bit over jumps, haven't jumped in a long time!


    The problem with any bit with a curb chain is that if the horse tosses its head, the chain will clunk them in the jaw - resulting in some not-so-pleasant sliding stops... yes I've been there.
    Training will do what a bit can't - that is, make a better horse for it. A horse that travels heavy on the forehand will continue to do so regardless of the bit. A horse that's rushy ... well, the bit may help for a little while, but it is just a "band aid" for an underlying problem.

    Like I said, I always recommend looking at the training rather than switching to a harsher bit.
         
        11-05-2008, 07:05 AM
      #13
    Showing
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by JustDressageIt    

    The problem with any bit with a curb chain is that if the horse tosses its head, the chain will clunk them in the jaw - resulting in some not-so-pleasant sliding stops...
    JDI, I aways enjoy your posts and advise but I need to disagree with just that one statement. If the chain is adjusted normally there is no way that it can clunk them in the jaw. The chain will swing but there is simply not enough weight or space to cause a reaction. I suspect that if you had a problem with your horse coming to a sliding stop, then there was something else going on.
         
        11-05-2008, 12:15 PM
      #14
    Showing
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by iridehorses    
    JDI, I aways enjoy your posts and advise but I need to disagree with just that one statement. If the chain is adjusted normally there is no way that it can clunk them in the jaw. The chain will swing but there is simply not enough weight or space to cause a reaction. I suspect that if you had a problem with your horse coming to a sliding stop, then there was something else going on.


    If the chain is adjusted properly (so the bit swings to a 45 degree angle when engaged) then there is enough play in the chain to (perhaps not "clunk," per se) hit the horse on the lower jaw. It doesn't happen all the time, but if a horse does toss its head, the chain can get a reaction. I've been there, done that - and yes, the chain was adjusted properly. Many riders ride with the chain too tight, so there would be no play in it.
    Remember, horses have different reactions to different pressures.
    The horse that I experienced this with was a very sensitive TB mare that I bought when I was 11 and she was 5 and fresh... anyways, long story short I didn't use a kimberwick for long. My mare would toss her head before a fence, get hit with the chain, toss her head higher, not see the jump (I was doing hunters) and come to a sliding stop.
         
        11-05-2008, 12:59 PM
      #15
    Yearling
    Jdi I am using a full cheek snaffel I do not want a harsh bit like the ones mentioned. I do want something more friendly to her mouth. I have soft hands but she is not %100 paying attention to me??? Does that make sense? I was wondering whats the horses reaction difference from what I am using in comparison to a french link snaffel?
         
        11-05-2008, 01:06 PM
      #16
    Foal
    I wont use anything but a snaffle on any of our horses. Its usually just their temperment or a training issue that is causeing them to be head strong. If she's getting strong over jumps try using a grid. It forces the horse to think more than "go go go!". Also before moving to a harsher bit try using a "pull cord". Its mostly used for head strong racehorses.

    We use tongue ties but if you can find something else (I don't suggest bailer twine I find it can cause burning.) To put a pull cord on put the middle of it over the horses nose and down under to its chin. Make sure you bring the loose ends behind the bit and tie it. Tightness depends on how much pull you want added.

    What this does is applies added pressure to the nose instead of the mouth. Horses don't tend to become dependant on it so if one day she's strong and the next day she's not just use it on the stronger days.

    BTW: Couldnt find an exact picture so I found one of a horse head and drew where the pull cord should be :)
         
        11-05-2008, 02:01 PM
      #17
    Green Broke
    Kimberwicks work great
         
        11-05-2008, 09:18 PM
      #18
    Showing
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by tbenitez    
    jdi I am using a full cheek snaffel I do not want a harsh bit like the ones mentioned. I do want something more friendly to her mouth. I have soft hands but she is not %100 paying attention to me??? Does that make sense? I was wondering whats the horses reaction difference from what I am using in comparison to a french link snaffel?


    I stand by my first comment that you should look at the training - is there a reason she's getting strong? Try lots of circles, bending, yielding to the bit and leg, and lots of transitions. Perhaps you could give me a little more detail on exactly what problem you're having, and I'll take a stab at some exercises for you.
    Again, and especially with a "forward" horse, I'd rather see the horse trained a little more rather than going to a harsher bit.

    Quote:
    Originally Posted by VanillaBean    
    Kimberwicks work great


    VB, perhaps you could expand on that thought? It's fairly vague.
         
        11-06-2008, 05:19 PM
      #19
    Zab
    Yearling
    The first one. Put the chain tight enough (You sould be able to move the shank some 30-45 degrees not more) and cut off te rest of the chain so it won't hit the horse.
    Use it for now, find out why she's not working on the other bit over fences, solve the problem and change back to your normal bit.
         
        11-06-2008, 07:42 PM
      #20
    Showing
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Zab    
    The first one. Put the chain tight enough (You sould be able to move the shank some 30-45 degrees not more) and cut off te rest of the chain so it won't hit the horse.
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Zab    
    Use it for now, find out why she's not working on the other bit over fences, solve the problem and change back to your normal bit.


    Why not solve the training problem in the bit she has now instead of changing bits?
         

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