Kieffer wien saddle fit-not good :-( - The Horse Forum

 
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post #1 of 8 Old 01-05-2013, 06:01 PM Thread Starter
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Unhappy Kieffer wien saddle fit-not good :-(

I bought it on ebay a month ago and haven't had a nice day where I got off work with enough time to try it on her. I finally got to try it on her today and I don't think it fits, despite it being cutback, it doesn't give nearly enough wither clearance . Do you think there is anyway to have it re-flocked to make it fit? I haven't worked Bella in a while, so she's also lost a lot of muscle tone, so maybe when she gets more muscle tone back(she'll likely have the winter off due to not having an indoor, and her bucking issues) it would fit better.
Anyway, here are the pics

















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Last edited by Rachel1786; 01-05-2013 at 06:03 PM.
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post #2 of 8 Old 01-05-2013, 06:24 PM
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Despite it being low on the withers, from these pics I'm not convinced it's wide enough. Could be wrong because open-head tree designs are really difficult to judge without being on the spot - the way the panels attach makes it difficult to be certain. I'd check it against a wither template to make sure the head angles match the horse before doing anything else.

If that does look okay, the only way to increase wither clearance and maintain level is to flock it right through, though that probably means it'll need to be fairly firm in front to stop it dropping in behind the shoulder. The rear gusset's not over deep but should be okay unless you're very heavy ( which you're not from your avatar).

It looks a fairly modern Keiffer and they had synthetic trees which are alterable by main dealers.

Best of luck :)

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post #3 of 8 Old 01-05-2013, 07:12 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by unclearthur View Post
Despite it being low on the withers, from these pics I'm not convinced it's wide enough. Could be wrong because open-head tree designs are really difficult to judge without being on the spot - the way the panels attach makes it difficult to be certain. I'd check it against a wither template to make sure the head angles match the horse before doing anything else.

If that does look okay, the only way to increase wither clearance and maintain level is to flock it right through, though that probably means it'll need to be fairly firm in front to stop it dropping in behind the shoulder. The rear gusset's not over deep but should be okay unless you're very heavy ( which you're not from your avatar).

It looks a fairly modern Keiffer and they had synthetic trees which are alterable by main dealers.

Best of luck :)
Thank you for your input. I sent the pics to a fairly local saddle fitter as well, so maybe she could come out and check it in person and re-flock it. I do have a wither tracing, tho it's not recent, I compared it to the saddle and it actually looks pretty good there. I tried to get pics but they didn't come out well, from the tracing it looks like it would clear her withers as I had the flexible ruler about 2 inches above her withers.



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post #4 of 8 Old 01-05-2013, 07:33 PM
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From the pics the saddle looks a little too far forward, There should be a two finger space between the edge of the scapula and the saddle. The angle looks good but a bit wide.
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post #5 of 8 Old 01-05-2013, 07:57 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Saddlebag View Post
From the pics the saddle looks a little too far forward, There should be a two finger space between the edge of the scapula and the saddle. The angle looks good but a bit wide.
I'll try to go out again tomorrow and move it back and take new pics
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post #6 of 8 Old 01-06-2013, 08:27 AM
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That looks a good tracing!

Because of the hollows, it's awkward to see the tree width you need. Just lay your template on another piece of paper then with a ruler draw a straight line from where the top of the wither starts to curve downwards to the widest part of the shoulder, on both sides. If you also draw around your original outline, the whole lot then shows the gullet angle you need (straight lines) and the also amount of gap to be filled out with flock.

Having the gullet angles matching your straight lines means the tree points sit neither inside the horse's shoulder, to impede movement, nor outside, to allow the saddle to rock back and forth, important when there's a lot of stuffing behind the shoulder as it's usually soft enough to allow some movement (it has to be fairly soft to allow the shoulderblade to slide underneath when the horse's front leg extends).

You can see the horse's unevenness from your template (nothing to worry about - that's very common) which a decent fitter should be able to take into account when reflocking so the saddle sits level.

Hope that helps :)

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post #7 of 8 Old 01-06-2013, 09:31 AM
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If you can get a chunk of firm 4" foam (mattress foam) cut a wedge and place it in the hollow on the more hollow side. 4" seems thick but the foam will compress. You may need to add a second one.This may give you a better idea of fit and how reflocking will change the fit.
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post #8 of 8 Old 01-06-2013, 05:40 PM Thread Starter
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I got more pics today with it moved back, hopefully it's in a better place but she was being a huge pain in the you know what today. I wasn't able to get any from the back this time as she wouldn't stand still. I did get profile pics without a saddle.





















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