So, I stood by and watched my aunt and her friend with their lessons, and I remember the trainer saying that while riding in a snaffle bit you should ride with direct contact (2 hands) instead of neck reining. Why is this, and is this true? I usually ride in a snaffle and I neck rein all the time. If this is true, what are some good bits that are meant to be neck reined with? I k now that neck reining doesn't have much to do with the bit, which is why I'm confused.
My daughter rides in a snaffle and only neck reins right now. That's all she's ever used on her lesson horse, and the instructor doesn't think she's ready for 2 handed yet.
The main idea behind that is to keep from confusing the horse. If you neck rein on a loose rein with a snaffle, it is no problem. However, if you have the reins tight and try to neck rein, then the outside rein pulls the bit off center esentially telling the horse to turn the other way. Like if I wanted to turn left, I would move my hand left and that would in turn tighten the outside rein and pull on the outside of the bit, which tells the horse to turn right. That makes a horse that faces the outside of a circle and throws them off balance.
That being said however, if it is being done on loose reins, NR in a snaffle is no problem. If you are looking for something just to step up the finesse though, this is the bit that I put all my trained horses in. It is a very mild bit and still allows the convenience of a 1 rein stop or direct rein if you should need it.
If your horse responds well to neck reining and stopping in a snaffle, then there's no reason to switch to another bit. If you need more "stop", then you can try a curb.
I find smrob's answer to be the best. I think the reason it is believed is that a snaffle is meant to be ridden with contact, so if you have contact, you shouldn't neck rein. However if you ride in a snaffle and a draped rein, it should be fine.
My event horses all neck rein in a simple snaffle. When I get in trouble at a jump and lose my reins, I might not have time to do anything but grab up leather and steer to the next jump any way I can. Neck reining is an essential tool, IMO.
Thanks for the advice guys! Much appreciated. I switched to a tom thumb bit w/ the chain chin strap, mostly because I thought the snaffle I had looked funny on her western bridle set, but I rode her in the tom thumb for about 2 minutes just to see how she was, and she was good with it. I'm going to ride tomorrow longer and see how she is. I will let you all know how that goes.
Her stopping is exceptional, it's not like she absolutely won't stop, unless she's at a dead run, than it takes longer. She simply got used to that snaffle bit and began to take advantage of it, so, back came the tom. It's not like I threw an extremely harsh bit back on her, just back to the old one. She acts just as she did when we had it on her before...very well!
Ton thumbs are one of my absolute least favorite bits. I dislike any jointed curb bit. I would rather see a horse in a regular curb so that you have the subtle feel of a good curb without the "nutcracker" of the snaffle.
I do have to say, I've always heard different things about tom thumbs so I did some research and I guess with the wrong person, they can be pretty damn harsh. I wanted to get a curb on her but the ones we have are huge! So I just put her back in her thumb bit. I don't think this will be a problem, as it never has because I'm very light with my hands and she is very responsive, especially in the thumb bit. All I have to do with that bit is slightly lift my reins up and back, just barely, and she stops on the dime. With the D ring snaffle she was in, I'd have to actually make quite a bit of contact with her mouth. I guess for everyone, it's kind of a hit and miss. But I agree with you, alison, tom thumbs can be harsh.
If your horse is broke enough to be neck reining, then my question is why are you still riding him in a snaffle bit? Just curious. Is your snaffle a shank snaffle? If you and your horse are getting along good the way you are doing things then unless you are showing, it doesn't matter what kind of bit you are riding in. Do what works best for you and dont worry about what other people say, again, unless you are showing. If you are showing in a snaffle bit then you must use 2 hands, and be showing in a green class.
Love longears: Because we switched bits, for a while remember? Thats what I said previously. And I am doing what works best because as stated before, again, she took advantage of the nice snaffle. And also, as stated before, it was not a shank snaffle, just a regualar old D-ring snaffle.
Love longears: I forgot to add. I'm kind of confused on what you said. You asked why am I still riding in a snaffle if she's broke enough to neck rein, than told me it doesn't matter what kind of bit it is as long as it works for us both. lol, maybe you can re-word it or something.
LL- Repeat after me neck reining does not = curb bit, you can neck rein a horse in any bit you could possibly want to use, unless you show then you need to go by showing standards, but she is not showing so a snaffle (shanked((which would be a tom thumb or a broken mouth curb, not a shanked snaffle)) or not) is perfectly fine.
Honeysuga:Thanks for clearning that one up for me lol. It's allergy season here and they are just hitting me now so I'm off a little today and was quite confused. By the way, I didn't know a shanked snaffle is a tom thumb. Is it necessary to have the chain underneath when using the tom? I've seen some without it but I wasn't sure if it was something that needs to be connected in order to be used the way it's supposed to. She's always had one, I was just curious.
Pechos, anyone riding in a shank bit without the chin strap knows nothing about bits or horses. The entire purpose of the shank is to give leverage through the chin strap. The only way it is feasible would be if the reins were attached directly to the rings at the mouth piece (if there were any) rather then the ends of the shanks; but that defeats the entire reason to have a shank bit.
Pechos, anyone riding in a shank bit without the chin strap knows nothing about bits or horses. The entire purpose of the shank is to give leverage through the chin strap. The only way it is feasible would be if the reins were attached directly to the rings at the mouth piece (if there were any) rather then the ends of the shanks; but that defeats the entire reason to have a shank bit.
What I bolded sounded kinda rude....... many english riders might not know about that because they ride with a snaffle........... no offence to you....
Iride: That makes sense. I always thought if there was those holes where the chin strap should be than it must be there for a reason. Just thought I'd ask. Some things can be so awkwards sometimes when it comes to equipment, which is why I asked. Now tell me, do which bits do you prefer to use? And I'm talking western, I assume you're majority of riding is western which is why I'm askin you. Thank on the bit advice!
I was originally taught by a member of the US Equestrian team from the 50's and rode English for many many years before switching to Western ~20 years ago.
As for the bit I use, it has a Billy Allen mouth with calvary style shanks to lower the leverage ratio.
Pechos, it's not unusual to misunderstand bits and everyone needs to learn somehow. I wish the internet was available when I was learning. The thing is to know who to listen to and who to ignore.
Iride: Well, thanks for understanding. I'm no idiot by any means, I just hear different things about the same thing so it's confusing. You are right, I need to know who and who not to listen too. The tom thumb that I have on her now, she doesn't seem to mind. The curb chain is pretty loose just so she can get used to it again. And as I said before, I'm real light with my hands because she's a real responsive horse and only has a few vices which are all only when on trail. Should I tighten the curb chain or leave it go. It's looser than my 2 fingers at the moment. Thanks for your advice by the way!!
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