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New to western riding...conflicting info. about the Tom thumb

3K views 11 replies 10 participants last post by  SorrelHorse 
#1 ·
I joined this forum because I am frustrated with my conflicting answers about the bits used on a few horses I am riding. I have been riding hunter/jumber for 26 years and have pleasure rode western off and on. But I am now working 5 horses western pleasure/trail and have noticed after months of riding that lately a few have been evading the bit. 2 of the horses are my main concern. I am riding in a tom-thumb on one and she has finally mastered yielding on the ground and in the saddle. I am so proud of her...her trot is great. She responds to my leg so well, turning on the haunches and forehand, half-passes through the center with just a touch from my leg I barely use the reins and always ask with my seat and leg first. I like to say I have soft hands...and I am very forgiving. However, I am wanting to work on lead changes so have been really doing a lot of loping...but she pops her head up and gapes her mouth open when we lope now but only around the turns...down the sides and straights she is fine. I want to change her bit and try a myler bit that was suggested to me...a mb#33 with an HBT shank. This bit is a shorter shank then the tom-thumb she is currently in and has a wide low port. The purchase and shank I believe move seperately and also each side moves independently from each other. I have read a ton of books on western bits, and have reread my myler "The level best for your horse" book but I still am not sure what to do? Does anyone have any info. about the tom-thumb or advice/ideas. The second horse I am concerned about is in a very high ported curb bit and is starting to root/bcome very heavy on the bit. I don't like using this ported bit because I don't feel he needs this much correction but the owner feels he is strong and needs the "stopping power". Ugh...advice/help :-(
 
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#2 ·
First thing: find a different bit. The tom thumb contradicts itself. The 'snaffle' mouthpiece is supposed to be mild, but then they put the shanks on it to make it tougher...? I don't get it.
With the shanks and the broken mouthpiece, the tom thumb puts a lot of unbearable pressure on the top of horse's mouth (the 'nutcracker' effect) and that causes some horses to either gape, raise their head to get away from the pressure, or maybe even rear! :-x
This is the best article, it explains it all in detail!!!..
Trouble with Tom Thumb
I don't know if that's your case, but that's mine, and if I were you, I'd stop using the tom thumb immediately, even if your horses aren't responding terribly to it, your life will probably be easier if you switch to a different bit. I'd suggest a mild, ported bit, like this one: (I love this bit)


And for the second horse; my trainer always says once a horse gets heavy on a bit like you described, she tells me to switch back to an O-ring snaffle and get him soft again, then work back up the 'bit latter'... :)

Hope I helped a little :)
 
#5 ·
And for the second horse; my trainer always says once a horse gets heavy on a bit like you described, she tells me to switch back to an O-ring snaffle and get him soft again, then work back up the 'bit latter'... :)
That's the perfect way to describe it!! My trainer always said you and your horse had to earn the next bit level. If you couldn't do the task right in the milder bit you didn't get to step up to a more advanced one!
 
#3 · (Edited)
Tom thombs are horrible! Only heard bad things about them.

O ring snaffle for training
shank snaffle too.
I wouldnt train with a curb just yet unless they master everything with a snaffle first.

reinsman, myler bits are my favorite so far. my horse personally does better with the myler bit.

You can watch videos that may help like Clinton Anderson and Buck brannaman :) their the best!
 
#4 ·
The Myler bit #33 is a good bit. I doubt you will be disappointed in it. I have one and my Fox Trotter does excellent in it. And mine has the longer shanks. The HBT shanks will be even milder.

If you want to use something without a port that is sort of like a tom thumb you can try something with a "dogbone" mouthpiece like this:

http://www.smartpetz.net/training-p...a-mi-training-sweet-iron-dog-bone-roller-bit/

I have a dogbone bit and use it a lot. The horses are very soft in it and it doesn't poke into the pallet like a single jointed mouthpiece does.

But if you already have access to the Myler try that first. The Myler folks say the #33 mouthpiece is the one to aspire to because it gives maximum tongue relief.
 
#7 ·
I have no use for broken link shanked bits, I just dont get them. I also cant see a bit being so super duper I would pay anywhere near what Myler charges. That thing would have to come with a Vulcan mind meld device. I cant see a bit doing much more than the $25 bit pictured above. Also just a straight low port $12 bit works pretty well also.
 
#10 ·
While I am not willing to pay more than $100 for a bit that isn't a custom job, I certainly wouldn't dare fault those that have the money and want to. Even a fool knows that quality costs money and there is a huge difference between the quality of something like this


and something like this


But, I guess if you aren't the least bit concerned with the amount of "feel" a horse has, then it really doesn't matter and one bit really is as good as the next.
 
#11 ·
:oops: Oops, I forgot to reply to the OP's post.

OP, if it was me, the horses that you are having trouble with need to go back to a simple snaffle (either single or double jointed) and get them working properly on the bit and responsive to your cues. Also, make sure you are riding properly and not giving conflicting signals. Once they are responding the way they are supposed to, then you can move them back up to the curb bit.

Beyond that, I agree, a TT bit is not ideal, especially if you are trying to train a horse or tune up their training. Those bits tend to just have too much going on in all the wrong places. For curb bits, mylers are one of the better brands if you can afford them. If not, then something like what DoublS posted is good. I have one of those bits and like it. You can also browse Billy Allen bits, they are similar to mylers but usually aren't quite as expensive and there aren't quite so many options for different mouths.
 
#12 ·
Im a little late to the discussion but my absolutely favorite bit to step up to as a transition bit is the curb bits with the Billy Allen mouthpieces. It is SO soft and every horse I have it on has loved them, and they are also the main bit used at my barn for transitioning. I personally stay in it to show though too, I love it!

Billy Allen Bits
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