Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: South Wales, UK
• Horses: 0
The two areas you've indicated look like the tree-point positions which suggests a pressure problem there. Have you templated (wither-profiled) the horse to check against the saddle? If you can do that, it's the best indicator of whether the tree's too narrow. As a rough guide first, put your saddle on the horse un-girthed and your hand between horse and saddle behind the flap. If the saddle is off the horse's back (ie if the flat of your hand slides under it easily) then do a wither template.
If you don't have a flexicurve use any piece of wire that'll hold its shape (about 2 feet long) and form it over the wither and down the shoulder following the contours, about 2" (3 fingers-width) behind the back of the scapula, then offer it up to the front of the saddle. If you find your horse hollows behind the shoulder, to get accurate angles you'll need to draw the shape on a piece of card then draw straight lines from where the wither starts to curve downwards to where the shoulder curves out. If you cut that shape out and hold it against the front of the saddle you'll see if the angles match those of the tree-points. I suspect you'll find your saddle comes inside these angles, in which case it's too narrow, but bear in mind if your horse does hollow behind the shoulder the saddle will need extra flocking as well as the arch adjustment, otherwise it'll just drop behind the shoulder and people will say 'your saddle's too wide.'
Your saddle has the right panel shape to have extra flock added, though whoever does the job will have to nick the stitches - they're designed to keep the existing flock from moving around too much so they're not structurally important.
Good luck :)
Last edited by unclearthur; 05-31-2012 at 06:12 AM.