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Saddle Fitting Tool

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        01-13-2013, 10:35 PM
      #11
    Yearling
    OK, never heard of a triangle plate rigging but I’m guessing it refers to the actual hardware that the cinch strap connects to. Does it have a strap coming down from around the swell then another going back up towards the cantle somewhere holding the rigging plates in position? Full, 7/8ths and centre fire all refer to the position of the rigging not the actual type of the rigging. A general rule of thumb is that 7/8th through to centre fire rigging don’t necessarily need a flank girth (centre fire not at all) whereas full double rigging will. But then if your saddler told you to use a flank girth all the time, it’s probably a good idea to do so. If you can’t get one big enough you could do it the old fashion way and just have another set of cinch straps and a mohair girth as a flank girth.
    And thanks, that old horse was great, unfortunately he is long since dead now though, and though I still have the saddle, even though I make my own now, it was my second custom saddle I’d never part with it, and it’s just too good a saddle to ever let go; unfortunately I just don’t get the opportunity to ride in it nearly as much as I would like these days.
         
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        01-13-2013, 11:05 PM
      #12
    Weanling
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by AnrewPL    
    [FONT=Calibri][SIZE=3]OK, never heard of a triangle plate rigging but Im guessing it refers to the actual hardware that the cinch strap connects to. Does it have a strap coming down from around the swell then another going back up towards the cantle somewhere holding the rigging plates in position?

    Ummm... I'm not quite sure. This is a link to a rigging diagram. I think the front cinch looks more forward than other saddles I've seen.

    What's in the Black Rhino? - About The Horse
         
        01-13-2013, 11:12 PM
      #13
    Yearling
    Yeah, that’s pretty much what I pictured,
         
        01-13-2013, 11:28 PM
      #14
    Yearling
    the way to figure out the rigging position is to picture a line running between the point where the cantle meets the bars at the back of the seat and another dropping down through the middle of the swell where they meet the bars (this bit gets a bit tricky as some swells sit up straight some lean forwards etc). Rigging on the extremities of the line is full double, halfway between them is centre fire, half way between full double (front) and centre fire is and half way between full double (front) and is 7/8ths.

    so it would look kind of like:

    (middle of Fork) = F--------------------C = (cantle meets bars) D= Rigging ring/plate

    Full rigging:

    F--------------------C
    D D

    Centre fire rigging. (typically never have flank girth rigging)

    F---------D----------C


    Rigging:

    F----D---------------C
    D

    7/8 Rigging:

    F--D-----------------C
    D
         
        01-13-2013, 11:30 PM
      #15
    Yearling
    Argggh, stupid thing keeps getting my back girth D rings out of place, just imagine they are under the cantle.
         
        01-14-2013, 07:57 AM
      #16
    Yearling
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Captain Evil    
    EQUImeasure Kit for saddle fit: Make a 3-D model of a horse, mule, or pony back

    This is a link to a saddle fitting tool.
    [HTML]

    It is expensive, but it is a sheet that you heat up, mold to your horse's back, and let it cool and harden, supposedly giving you a 3-D map of the contours or your horse's back. I wondered if anyone has tried it, or has any thoughts about how useful it might be.
    I've used something similar - a mesh sheet produced by a company in the UK which you soften in boiling water. That means you can usually use it on a yard (there's generally a kettle).

    After a couple of test runs I've used it precisely twice, both times on really awkward horses.

    The problem is that while it's useful if you need to go away from a horse, either to make a saddle or alter a panel, IMO it's still too flexible to guarantee a perfectly accurate fit based on its shape alone.

    If you're a long way from a saddle fitter I can see it might be a better bet than a paper template for checking whether a particular saddle fits reasonably well. But it's a long way from perfect, unfortunately. Plus you have to have an oven close enough to the horse so the sheet doesn't go hard before you get there ;)
    Captain Evil likes this.
         
        01-14-2013, 08:40 AM
      #17
    Weanling
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by AnrewPL    
    the way to figure out the rigging position is to picture a line running between the point where the cantle meets the bars at the back of the seat and another dropping down through the middle of the swell where they meet the bars
    I think I get it; so I believe I do have a 7/8 rigged saddle, corect?
         
        01-14-2013, 05:34 PM
      #18
    Yearling
    It looked that way from the picture, but then angles can change perception a bit, but yeah that's what it looked like to me. Technically you could probably ride without a flank girth, but if the saddler said you should ride with one its probably advisable to do so.
    Captain Evil likes this.
         
        01-14-2013, 05:44 PM
      #19
    Foal
    Just to let you know the pad which you ride with to see pressure points they let you lease for $25 a time :) Could be worth it as peace of mind I guess
    Captain Evil likes this.
         

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