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walking horse bit

9K views 13 replies 6 participants last post by  sandy2u1 
#1 ·
I have a walking horse. Is it true that they make walking horse bits? Should I be using one? What do they look like?
 
#4 ·
They do make bits just for gaited horses. I've had a few pussyfooters over years and bought into the idea that you had to have that particular bit to get the most from them. I never noticed the difference between a regular shanked bit and the WH bit so unless you are showing your horse in a breed specific show that requires that bit, I would just use what he currently does well in.
 
#5 ·
My horse will never be used for any kind of shows or anything...just pleasure riding. I have only ridden him once because I havent had him long and soon learned that I should do ground work first. The bit i currently use is the one with two metal pieces that join in the middle (plz excuse my noobness lol)
 
#6 ·
If the bit has no shanks, it's a snaffle. If the bit has shanks,it's a curb--probably a Tom Thumb. Is this the bit that he came with? Are you direct reining or neck reining? As a general rule, these days most people prefer either a solid mouthpiece (low port curb or Kimberwicke, mullen mouth) or a double jointed (as opposed to the single joint/V shaped mouth) French or comfort snaffle.

The one rule to keep in mind: a direct rein bit is a snaffle and any bit with shanks or leverage is a curb regardless of whether the mouthpiece is jointed or solid. Leverage/no leverage determines the kind of bit, not the mouthpiece.

I like Myler bits, you can read up on them here:
http://www.mylerbitsusa.com/

Even if you don't buy a Myler, there's a lot of good info there about how the different kinds of bits work.

If you google around a little on the internet, you can find a place that will rent you a Myler bit to use for a short time, then you can decide if that's the one that you want to buy.
 
#10 ·
That's a very mild shanked bit and it's not a Tom Thumb but I think it's called tear drop shanked bit. Your horse really should be neck reined in it otherwise go back a step and get him into a simple snaffle. It can be a "D" ring, an "O" ring, or a full cheek.

Once you have your horse neck reining then you can move into the bit you are using or just ride him in the snaffle.

Gaited horses are usually worked in a shanked bit and they will gait better if they are collected a little with some light contact rather then a loose rein.
 
#11 ·
Yep--that bit's not bad. I'm not a fan of Tom Thumbs (v shape driven into roof of horse's mouth when you pull back), but that one is not nearly as bad as a lot of them. If he's going ok in it, I'd stick with it for now. It's best to neck rein with a leverage bit--which your bit is, it's officially a curb, but it's a mild one.

Here are a couple good sites about teaching a horse to neck rein:

http://horses.about.com/od/learntoride/ht/neckrein.htm

http://www.equisearch.com/horses_riding_training/training/general/neckrein_071706/
 
#12 ·
thanks! I will start working with him on the neck rein thing! It would be way better than dragging his head over in the direction I want him to go. Poor Major! Im glad he's so nice and forgiving.
 
#13 ·
kickshaw said:
i know many gaited horses that ride in a bit similar to that - - if he responds to it, i say there is no need for a wh bit - they tend to have longer shaks = more leverage.
Yes, the longer the shanks the more leverage.

Once upon a time I didn't weigh much (early 60's). During that time I raised/trained an Arab/Saddlebred from birth.

Not a mean bone in his body but boy was he "up". A wise Amishman suggested I buy a swivel,long-shanked Walking horse bit and he taught me how to use those shanks.

They were only 6" shanks on a low port curb, but the day that bit went into Sonny's mouth was the day I started riding on a fairly loose rein because he knew I now had control.

My 21 yo TWH still has a huge motor and still wears a low port swivel-shank bit whose shanks are 8 inches.

I don't recommend those long shanks to anyone who doesn't know how to use them. It takes really soft hands because the longer the shank, the more leverage the rider has, and the faster someone can ruin that horse's mouth.

If the horse is performing well with whatever's in its mouth now, I don't think I would change to a bit with long shanks.

I also have a TWH who wears a mechanical hackamore and another one who wears a low port curb with 6" shanks.

I am strictly a trail rider, so all my horses will neck rein with just a slight flick of the rein. We have no need for direct reining :)

The horse will tell you what he's happy with and "if it works, don't fix it" :D
 
#14 ·
Well I am still learning, so I know sometimes I get a little to much in the bit. I dont always feel that I have him in complete control, but that could be because im not used to the fast walking horse pace and changing gaits either. I think I will stick with the bit im using until I can get a feel for things. I dont wanna put unnecessary pressure on a good horse who trys to do what I want. He's a sweetie and a smart horse...i'm the one who is trying to learn to communicate better with him.
 
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