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western saddlery saddles

This is a discussion on western saddlery saddles within the Horse Tack Reviews forums, part of the Horse Tack category

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        06-06-2014, 08:23 PM
      #11
    Showing
    A few months back I had a genuine Western Saddlery saddle in the shop. I spent hours trying to determine who the W with the saddle was made by. The logo was stamped into the horn, no metal plate. This was a heavy quality saddle likely made in the early 70's with a rawhide wrapped tree. The only fixin this saddle needed was to have the horn restitched. If you look closely the metal plate isn't an exact copy of the real one but close enough to fool people.
    SouthernTrails likes this.
         
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        06-06-2014, 09:00 PM
      #12
    Yearling
    Any idea what my knock off is worth?
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        06-06-2014, 09:11 PM
      #13
    Showing
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by countrylove    
    Any idea what my knock off is worth?
    Posted via Mobile Device
    Not really, to be honest....

    Maybe someone will


    .
    smrobs likes this.
         
        06-06-2014, 11:09 PM
      #14
    Yearling
    OK thanks for all the info :)
    Hopefully someone will come along and know...

    I also had another question or two :)
    What's the leather? Buffalo?
    What's the best way to maintain cheap leather?
    It might be an import but I'd still like to keep it in good condition :)
    Thanks again!
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        06-06-2014, 11:29 PM
      #15
    Showing
    The bars of the saddle should not exceed the last true rib. It's ok if the skirt does as long as it doesn't rub the hips. I'm curious as to what the tree is made of. Take a stiff coat hanger and make a form and fit it over his back about two fingers behind his shoulder blade. Be sure it is perpendicular. The google horsesaddleshop and download and print their free templates. Use the shape of the wire to compare with the templates to find what tree you need. One half the template should fit the horse, the other half the saddle. Works great if you transfer them to cardboard.
         
        06-06-2014, 11:57 PM
      #16
    Yearling
    Pretty positive its fiberglass. Even got DH opinion since he works construction and restoring cars as a hobby. Figured he'd know for sure. Upon first glance it looks wood but after inspection 99.9% sure its fiberglass.

    I'm going to check out the template. Thanks a bunch!!! Any advise is always welcome :)
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        06-07-2014, 09:47 AM
      #17
    Showing
    The forks on a fiberglass tree is hollow so don't rely on the horn, particularly in cold weather. I'll see if I can find a few pics of one that cracked.
         
        06-07-2014, 12:00 PM
      #18
    Showing
         
        06-07-2014, 12:17 PM
      #19
    Trained
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Saddlebag    
    The bars of the saddle should not exceed the last true rib...
    This custom saddle tree maker disagrees:

    All western saddles extend over the loin

    The problems with too-short bars
    AnrewPL likes this.
         
        06-07-2014, 01:01 PM
      #20
    Showing
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by bsms    
    Well, I disagree and so do most vets about putting weight on the last 2 ribs, they are floating ribs and cannot tolerate bearing weight for very long.

    Look at the last picture in the 1st link, the middle area of the bars are supporting most of the weight and the ends of the bars are hardly touching, that is called reverse bridging.

    As far as too short, Western bars are still much longer than the bars English Saddles, so I do not agree with his theory either.


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