Can my suburban pull a trailer? - Page 4
 
 

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Can my suburban pull a trailer?

This is a discussion on Can my suburban pull a trailer? within the Horse Trailers forums, part of the Barns, Boarding, and Farms category
  • Sway control hitch for travel trailer
  • Can a suburban pull a 32 ft travel trailer

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    05-01-2014, 11:03 PM
  #31
Weanling
Quote:
Originally Posted by tim62988    
I'm not sure who mentioned anti-sway bars but I would suggest them as they don't hurt to have as extra insurance for stability
A lot of people get weight distribution bars and sway controls mixed up. They are two different beasts:

Weight distribution bars:



Sway control:



There are weight distributing hitches that mix the two (add sway control as well as weight distribution) but they're arguably overkill for a horse trailer as the weight distribution of a horse trailer doesn't lend them to having sway problems to begin with the way a travel trailer can. Inadequate tongue weight is the biggest reason for trailer sway, but it's almost impossible to load a horse trailer heavy on it's tail as can happen with a travel trailer when people load gear incorrectly.

A weight distribution hitch is far more important than a sway controller for a horse trailer, especially if being pulled with a tow vehicle with a light capacity rear axle...such as a half ton. As a side effect to proper weight distribution the vehicle combination becomes more stable (rear tow vehicle wheels not squashed and squishy, for example) so the setup becomes inherently more stable as a simple result of that alone.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mnevans    
I have to agree with this advice: "One thing that might help in your research is taking your vin number off the suburban in to the dealer, and they can print you off a sheet that tells all the options that come on your vehicle." by Altaleft.
It won't tell you much beyond what the OP has already told us other than about options that are not relevant to towing. The OP mentioned it has the tow package (which includes a tranny cooler amongst other things) and that the rear gearing is 3.73 which is also an important consideration with towing..but we already know those facts. The same option codes that a VIN search would result can be found on any vehicle by looking at the RPO sticker usually located in the glovebox:



All those codes indicate options and specifications. If you decode them it'll tell you everything about your vehicles options and outfitting from the factory with no need to run the VIN.
     
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    05-02-2014, 01:05 AM
  #32
Green Broke
I still disagree with using a 1/2 ton and always will but darn good post.
     
    05-02-2014, 08:32 AM
  #33
Weanling
Quote:
Originally Posted by Darrin    
I still disagree with using a 1/2 ton and always will but darn good post.
On what basis? If the vehicle is of adequate capability, weight, and wheelbase to tow a trailer safely within it's ratings with a total absence or any negative factors such as sway or inadequate braking ability, the fact it's "only" a half ton under the skin is irrelevant.

I know it's a difference of opinion, but it's just not based on the facts, that's all - it's based on the aforementioned "You need a 1 ton dually to pull a pop up tent trailer" mindset. "Adequate" can be entirely safe and suitable... "Overkill" isn't necessarilly worse, but arguably is unnecessary.

I've seen a lot of people discouraged from joining the RV scene over the years because they go look at a trailer they like and then go online and hear the same story at places like RV.net... "You can't pull that with your vehicle! You need to trade that in right away on a big burly truck otherwise you're putting your family at a huge risk driving a deathtrap!".

Meanwhile, if they looked at the numbers, their current vehicle would be just fine. They walk away instead because they can't afford the payment on not only a new trailer, but a new tow vehicle they are told they "need" to tow it as well, when in reality...they didn't.
     
    05-02-2014, 03:18 PM
  #34
Foal
I think for short hauls, it will be fine. I'm in the same boat as you;) Idon't know much on trailers and vehicles that haul them lol But my mom has a mercury mariner that everyone says can't haul one horse for a 30 minute ride down the road. But every dealer and professional has been fine with it and the trips we've taken haven't been problematic.
I have heard that suburbans are better than my SUV and if mine can haul one horse, I would think yours would be fine for one if not two also
Sorry if I'm just repeating stuff;)
     
    05-02-2014, 03:24 PM
  #35
Weanling
I also haul with an SUV for short trips and have no trouble with 1 or 2 horses. I do find it unpleasant over 55 mph or longer than an hour or so, but that is more my own insecurity than a problem with the vehicle. Our vehicles have similar options and capacity. As long as you follow the great advice about brake controllers and weight distribution and take it slow while you're getting used to your rig, I think you'll be fine. You can get a bigger truck when you start making more long hauls.
     
    05-02-2014, 06:27 PM
  #36
Green Broke
Quote:
Originally Posted by PrivatePilot    
On what basis? If the vehicle is of adequate capability, weight, and wheelbase to tow a trailer safely within it's ratings with a total absence or any negative factors such as sway or inadequate braking ability, the fact it's "only" a half ton under the skin is irrelevant.

I know it's a difference of opinion, but it's just not based on the facts, that's all - it's based on the aforementioned "You need a 1 ton dually to pull a pop up tent trailer" mindset. "Adequate" can be entirely safe and suitable... "Overkill" isn't necessarilly worse, but arguably is unnecessary.

I've seen a lot of people discouraged from joining the RV scene over the years because they go look at a trailer they like and then go online and hear the same story at places like RV.net... "You can't pull that with your vehicle! You need to trade that in right away on a big burly truck otherwise you're putting your family at a huge risk driving a deathtrap!".

Meanwhile, if they looked at the numbers, their current vehicle would be just fine. They walk away instead because they can't afford the payment on not only a new trailer, but a new tow vehicle they are told they "need" to tow it as well, when in reality...they didn't.
Go back and read my post again and you'll see I'm not a 1 ton diesel dually required type. I'm against 1/2 tons because when it comes to safety I think you're pushing the envelope towing horses. If you want to tow your 25 ft travel trailer then go for it. FYI, I know quite a few people who have fried their rear end, fried transmissions, boiled brakes, broken suspension parts, fried motors (older non computer controlled), blown tires, broken drive line and bent axles all using 1/2 tons that were towing within their ratings. For heavier rigs I've seen boiled brakes, fried transmission and one who burnt a hole in a piston on a 429 cobra jet set up to race but dropped in a pickup to tow with.

Flat out 3/4 and 1 ton pickups were built as work trucks which means they are built with heavier, longer lasting components. 1/2 tons fall into fuel standard laws and are built lighter to meet those standards. Lighter parts mean they are more likely to fail when repeatedly stressed.

Also when things go south I want to protect my horses as much as possible, for me that means a truck built sturdy. Not one that's built to get fuel mileage, grocery runs, taking the kids to play soccer and oh yeah, tow.
     
    05-02-2014, 06:38 PM
  #37
Weanling
I can't speak for the Suburban, but I'd argue my Land Rover is better built than some "work" trucks today. But then, mine was not built with fuel economy and grocery runs in mind.
     

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