Trailer is fishtailing on the highway...HELP! - Page 3
   

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Trailer is fishtailing on the highway...HELP!

This is a discussion on Trailer is fishtailing on the highway...HELP! within the Horse Trailers forums, part of the Barns, Boarding, and Farms category

     
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        02-28-2010, 09:16 AM
      #21
    Banned
    Ditto, ditto, ditto.

    Also, as much as I love trailers with a tack room/dressing room up front, they make it very hard to load the trailer correctly with enough weight forward.

    This trailer requires a bigger truck in *wheel base* and overall body length, not just in towing capacity. And it's the type of rig, because of the length of the trailer, that absolutely benefits from hitch stablizer or anti sway bars.

    One final note: IMO and IME, anything larger that a standard length two horse going short distances locally requires a 3/4 ton truck. Dealers and people how don't haul horses will tell you a 1/2 ton will work. Don't listen. If you're going to do anything other than haul one horse short distances, get a 3/4 ton truck.

    Also, ask for specifics on what the "tow package" is - dealers will tell you it has a "tow package" if it has a hitch mount and a connection for the brakes. A real tow package includes a beefed up suspension, heavy duty radiator and a transmission oil cooler.

    Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, looks like an awesome trailer that I'd love to have.

    PS - per Iridehorses - The emergency brake cable needs to run free of all other elements of the hitch. It's purpose is to lock the brakes on the trailer and keep it from rolling if the trailer breaks away from the tow vehicle. It can't do that if the cable is hung on another part of the hitch - the cable will break without pulling the pin and setting the breaks.

    Safety chains need to be shorter, and I like beefed up heavier ones. You can cross yours several times or run the clip through the ring on the hitch and fasten them back to themselves. You don't want them dragging or throwing sparks.
         
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        02-28-2010, 09:50 AM
      #22
    Foal
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by maura    
    Ditto, ditto, ditto.

    Also, as much as I love trailers with a tack room/dressing room up front, they make it very hard to load the trailer correctly with enough weight forward.

    This trailer requires a bigger truck in *wheel base* and overall body length, not just in towing capacity. And it's the type of rig, because of the length of the trailer, that absolutely benefits from hitch stablizer or anti sway bars.

    One final note: IMO and IME, anything larger that a standard length two horse going short distances locally requires a 3/4 ton truck. Dealers and people how don't haul horses will tell you a 1/2 ton will work. Don't listen. If you're going to do anything other than haul one horse short distances, get a 3/4 ton truck.

    Also, ask for specifics on what the "tow package" is - dealers will tell you it has a "tow package" if it has a hitch mount and a connection for the brakes. A real tow package includes a beefed up suspension, heavy duty radiator and a transmission oil cooler.

    Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, looks like an awesome trailer that I'd love to have.

    PS - per Iridehorses - The emergency brake cable needs to run free of all other elements of the hitch. It's purpose is to lock the brakes on the trailer and keep it from rolling if the trailer breaks away from the tow vehicle. It can't do that if the cable is hung on another part of the hitch - the cable will break without pulling the pin and setting the breaks.

    Safety chains need to be shorter, and I like beefed up heavier ones. You can cross yours several times or run the clip through the ring on the hitch and fasten them back to themselves. You don't want them dragging or throwing sparks.
    Thank you so much for the info... I am just learning and I knew I could rely on the wisdom of the forum members!!! I may take it to the trailer people and just see if sway bars will help before I look for another truck.. I will not be traveling more than and hour or so away from home.. but I want my horses safe!!!
         
        02-28-2010, 09:55 AM
      #23
    Showing
    "Horses" as in plural? Then sway bars are not going to be very effective - especially in the mountains of NC. As difficult as it may be to say, you need a different truck.
         
        02-28-2010, 10:35 AM
      #24
    Green Broke
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by iridehorses    
    Very good point. If it is too short (meaning the wheel base) that can easily cause the problem. I would be more concerned about wheel base then towing capacity. A Featherlite should be a light vehicle and with one horse, shouldn't be a problem at a 3500lb rating but if the wheel base is too small or too short, that will make the rig touchy to drive.

    A picture, as maura suggested would be a big help.
    Yes when I said TOO SMALL I meant every thing including wheel base, weight, capacity and everything inbetween just didn't spell it out but I knew that a sport truck could not handle a trailer that big. That picture is just plain scary.
         
        02-28-2010, 01:28 PM
      #25
    Foal
    Well now we know where to start girl we will take my trailer next week.
         
        02-28-2010, 07:08 PM
      #26
    Trained
    I saw this thread and thought "truck's not big enough". The pictures confirm it. I argee with churumbeque, I would be scared even passing that on the highway.

    As a rule of thumb I don't like to take up more than 50% of the truck's hauling capacity when hauling horses. They are a "live load" so the truck needs enough power to keep going straight even when the horses are moving.

    I was able to find a 2006 3/4 ton with a 6.0L engine, a hauling package and 4x4 for under $13,000. They are out there, you just have to have a good mechanic and a few thousand left in the budget for repairs.

    Good luck!
         
        02-28-2010, 10:46 PM
      #27
    Started
    All the boarders at the barn I'm at have all bought trucks off of Trucktrader.com

    You can search locally owned, private, dealers, whatever and they'll list all the prices, numbers, and whatever else you need to find. It's a great site. Check it out for your new truck and you can always call a dealer to find out the towing abilities of anything you're interested in.

    My trainer refuses to pull anything even a small one horse with anything less than a 3/4 ton. Short or long distances doesn't matter. She's always on the overly safe side which is way better than going with the minimum package, something she's layed into me about making sure I avoid when talking with dealers for trucks.
         
        03-01-2010, 08:06 AM
      #28
    Foal
    Talking Thanks for all the great advice!! It was truly helpful

    Thank you so much for the info... I am just learning and I knew I could rely on the wisdom of the forum members!!! I may take it to the trailer people and just see if sway bars will help before I look for another truck.. I will not be traveling more than and hour or so away from home.. but I want my horses safe!!!
         
        03-01-2010, 08:46 AM
      #29
    Banned
    If you want your horses to be safe then get the sway bars AND a bigger truck.

    Your rig is dangerous, not only to your horses but everyone else on the road.
         
        03-01-2010, 09:14 AM
      #30
    Green Broke
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Horseluvr88    
    Thank you so much for the info... I am just learning and I knew I could rely on the wisdom of the forum members!!! I may take it to the trailer people and just see if sway bars will help before I look for another truck.. I will not be traveling more than and hour or so away from home.. but I want my horses safe!!!
    If I had a jet ski I might pull it with that truck but not a horse trailer. Just asking for trouble and it said you live in the mountains that is even more risky. Sorry to be harsh but when I saw your rig it just doesn't make sense at all.
         

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