I would get off and start lunging the horse away from home. Letting him go home is the last thing I would do haha. Getting his mind focused on a job getting it done, then after he has settled a little bit, reward him and go home.
I would also not just 'go home' untack and throw him back where ever. I would also work more at home getting it in his mind that home means work. Instead of just hoping off and putting him away. I would leave him tied and work around him (like sweeping the floors and other barn chores).
Kicking and spuring is just a harsher way and getting a horses mind back on you. You can make him come back to you by making him work hard and 'doing a job'.
If a horse throws a fit, let him do it.... act like it was nothing once he looks at you for a reaction and go on doing whatever you were doing. If you don't feed to his attitude (and yes fear does), then he will learn that throwing a fit just means more work.
I agree 100% with this post.
Ricci gets worked up leaving the barn, and it's not so much she doesn't want to leave the barn or her friends as she is just SO excited, she can't contain herself. If she acts up, it's in the same spot; the intersection we have to cross to get to the hill. She spins and pops up and bucks and prances. This is when I first give her a swift kick in the right direction, and if that doesn't work, she gets whacked in the rear with my excess rein. She'll give a little buck, but then she goes on. The trick for dealing with Ricci, as well as with most horses, is to not over-react to the bad behavior. Negative attention to a negative behavior is still attention. It's a very simple process. I said, "go" and she can either go when I ask nicely, or she can go when I get a little rough.
That being said, if you aren't capable of handling a certain situation, like rearing, and it scares you enough that you can't do what needs to be done or has become extremely dangerous, that's when the professionals should be called in. It's important to know your limits. I, for one, don't like habitual rearers. I'm confident in my ability to prevent the behavior with Gracie when I start riding her, and I could probably work out the habitual rearer, but it's something I'd rather avoid.
And for the record, I ride in spurs, and very rarely, I ride with my dressage whip. They are simply extensions, and are in fact very rarely used while riding. My horse is trained to respond to my seat and thigh muscles more than my calves or heels. But if I ask Ricci for a leg yield and she doesn't respond as quickly as she is supposed to, she gets a kick with the spur. Ask, tell, demand. I'm very good at never letting my spurs touch her sides unless I'm doing it on purpose, and 98% of the time, Ricci never feels them.
If you don't ride with spurs, you aren't not asking for enough. Some horses are simply more sensitive to cues than others. If you have a dead-sided horse, using spurs appropriately can help the horse become more responsive. If you ride a horse who moves off your leg with the pressure of barely a feather, using spurs can actually create a problem. All artificial aids serve a purpose, and if used appropriately can really make for a better horse, but if your horse doesn't need anything extra to respond to you, there's no reason to use it. If you think that all horses need artificial training aids, or that all artificial training aids are unnecessary, you aren't as good a horseman as you think. Every horse, every situation, every aid is different, and you should be open to dealing with the situation in the way that works best for the horse.