Cinchy horse help! - Page 2 - The Horse Forum
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post #11 of 20 Old 08-31-2013, 10:17 PM
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I would agree with most of the replies. I have never been a fan distracting a horse to do anything. My horses need to deal with anything I need to do. I try to gut my mare first time, I don't have time to tiptoe around. I will not hurt her, I know what notch to buckle my cinche to have a safe ride. If she EVER (and she has) tried to bring her nose to me while saddling it will be met with a firm but fair correction.
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post #12 of 20 Old 08-31-2013, 10:31 PM
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If he even pins his ears back slap him in the those.

If he turns to bite you slap his nose even harder.

I ride a Thoroughbred mare and she was like that, her saddle fit her and such but she tried to get away with things. A few years ago I wasn't fast enough to slap her and if I did get her it wouldn't be that hard. So one day her owner stood next to her and she did that, her owner slapped a really good one on her nose and she never ever did that again.

Hit them like you mean it.
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post #13 of 20 Old 09-01-2013, 03:48 AM
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While you may think tack fits fine? It can cause problems that you miss. And weight of rider in saddle changes tack fit too. Greatly. Could be cinch is too long, or you aren't tenting pad/blanket, or have cinch too far forwards, or have skin twisted up under it.

He could also have abscess deep in muscles from ill fitting tack, broken or cracked rib, thorn in body where saddle/girth lies, or something could even be wrong with your saddle, such as nail, screw, or tree is broken.

Could be he is doing this because he has other problems, such as teeth need done, or what have you? Sheath could need cleaning for that matter.

Depending on age, he could also have something physically wrong with him.

Without some sort of diagnostics by an equine vet, you won't know either if this is pain or attitude.

Could also be you have too high pitched voice, or fast mannerisms and irritate him.

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post #14 of 20 Old 09-01-2013, 05:11 AM
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Cinchy behavior is almost Lways born of pain . I think a retook at the tack fit is wise. Can be things like not enough fleece or a nail poking out . One has to be sure there is no current source of pain . If its an oldvlearned habit ,then use the go slow method and you can allo w hin to wll xa few strides between e Each tightening When the horse can move out between tightenings he can release a little bit of tension
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post #15 of 20 Old 09-01-2013, 04:37 PM
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He's been a school horse and he knows that the cinching up means work and he's trying to intimidate you. As you draw the cinch up, flap your left elbow up and down, do it a few times as you begin to buckle. If he connects with your elbow he won't like it and will think twice about doing it again. But, all horses test so do the elbow flap each time you cinch for the next 7 times. Be sure to do it sporadically rather than rhythmically so he can't figure it out.
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post #16 of 20 Old 09-01-2013, 05:02 PM
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You are getting some great advice. What everyone is telling you is true. I work in a summer camp our horses are saddled almost everyday. I try to teach good riding but its kids and they are less them consistent, I deal with nippy horses more then I would like by the end of summer some of my horse get a little tempted to start nipping. I have never been bit by a horse while cinching. Why? because I know they can and I am always watching there reaction to being cinched. As I tighten the cinch I watch their head their ears, their muscles. If I see, feel any reaction to cinching I stop tightening the cinch, I move to the breast collar or bridle, then I go back to the cinch and tighten it a little more. If the horse really reacts and tries to turn its head it gets an elbow, back hand in the neck or side of the head. Not hard just enough to let them know its better to keep my head looking forward. FOR ME, I wouldn't use cross ties. I would teach my horse to keep its head start.
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post #17 of 20 Old 09-02-2013, 02:07 AM
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Whenever he turns to nip, smack the mess out of him right on the nose. Nipping turns to biting quick and you sure as heck don't want to end up with an injury like mine over a cinchy or spoiled horse.
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post #18 of 20 Old 09-02-2013, 11:33 PM
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Thought I'd chime in.

Horses often get cinchy, bloat, nip, etc, from people cinching too tightly. If your tack fits, and you don't have too much pad under your saddle, you really don't need to cinch up very tightly. I have watched people really haul on that latigo and they just do not realize how much of a multiplying effect a couple loops through the rigging makes. Even a small woman or a young boy can cinch a horse way past what it needs to be.

Three things I have seen, besides inexperience, that cause over-cinching are a poorly fitting saddle for the conformation of the horse, too wide of cinch, and way too much saddle pad. Those big ol' pillow-like saddle pads, and some of those really expensive gell-filled and other kinds of "special" pads some folks seem to love, lead directly to over-cinching, as do those extra-wide padded cinches.

If your saddle fits the horse and the horse has decent withers, and you have a good wool-felt pad (I often use a 1/2" wool-felt pad with a navajo blanket cover), all you need to do is snug-up the cinch.

As for nipping, I use CowboyBob's method with the elbow when a horse threatens to nip, but hard enough that the horse doesn't want to feel it again.

However, if I actually get nipped or bit, I leave no question in the horse's mind that doing so will get him hurt. None of this slap him on the neck stuff. I will ball up my fist and knock him into next week if I can. There is no way I can physically injure a horse with a blow from my fist, unless I hit him in the eyeball, which I won't do, and I'm not a little guy. If I am working with a horse that habitually nips or bites, I will work with them on a lead (not tied solid to a hitch rail) and I will carry a leather bat or farrier's rasp in hand. When the nip comes I will instantly give the horse a very healthy wallop alongside the neck with it, and follow that up by aggressively charging into the horse and yelling, like an aggressive horse in the herd would do. It only takes once or twice for the horse to figure out he's not the herd leader and nipping the king is not a good idea.

Watch horses in the field together. Watch what happens when horses start nipping each other. They are not gentle and they INTEND to make it hurt. You should too.
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post #19 of 20 Old 09-07-2013, 11:51 AM
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My good trail gelding initially would pin his ears and try to grab my arm when cinched. I got him at 5 and this was the baggage he brought. I cinched just enough to keep him from twitching the saddle back, then would walk him about 10 strides, then tighten a little more. In time, because I was consistent, he got over it. From his initial reaction to being cinched, I suspected someone had rammed a knee into his ribs to deflate him. Walking does the same thing.
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post #20 of 20 Old 09-07-2013, 12:03 PM
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My horse loves to do this as well.
As I was cinching up, if he brought his head over, I would whip out my hand and hold it right where it nose would be heading and he would run into my hand and not even make it past his shoulder.
You can also tie him leadrope shorter and slowly make it longer and longer every day he stands good.

Never give him any treats when you are saddling or cinching up. Maybe when you put the saddle on his back and he was good - or if you saddled up completely and he was good. But as you do it is a very bad idea.
I do some of Pat's teachings, but that treat technique I disagree with. To me that is just asking the horse to keep bringing his nose over because every time he brings his nose over there was a treat right there!

Also - make sure you are cinching up slowly and nicely.
Don't be jerking on the cinch to get it tight and don't get it tight all at once. Just slowly pull up or down on the cinch until it is snug. Then work him in circles to get his breathing going regular again and you have room to tighten the cinch. then stop him and tighten the cinch again. It doesn't need to be death grip tight, on my saddle the tightest it goes is on the fourth hole. But I always put it on the third hole so it isn't so tight, but it is still snug and steady.
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