Exited horse won't listen. Help! - The Horse Forum
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post #1 of 17 Old 08-10-2013, 05:03 PM Thread Starter
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Exited horse won't listen. Help!

Well today I decided to back up the trail string on my horse today because we just did some training on Tuesday and I wanted to see if it had any lasting effect. He also has gained alot of weight and is feeling better so I just wanted to do one ride with him.

Well he did great at the walk and trot, perfect even. All the crap started to go downhill when we went to canter. He gets SO excited, jiggy, hotheaded and wants to gogogogo. I was told by a few people that his previous owners were kids who would always canter and gallop him down the side of the road, that's ALL they would do. They wouldnt walk or trot, just go fast. So now, I see the damage they have done. He is so confused and thinks I only want to run ect. And I feel so frustrated because he's only like this when we get to places that look like the side of a road. He's perfect at WTC in the yard and around the ranch but he gets so excited if we get to something like a road.

I can see just how much they screwed him up. They have ridden his head so.much and have don't that "collection" where you want the horses nose almost touching his breast. He also probably had a tie down too. I can tell all of this because when I go to slow him down and I lift on the reins lightly, he tucks his head in and does that jiggy thing. When he gets excited he looks just like those freaking Mexican dancing horses.

I really need help! How do I fix this? He's really good anywhere except for the road looking parts. Thanks :)
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post #2 of 17 Old 08-10-2013, 05:05 PM Thread Starter
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Also, another thing to add: when I put leg on him to like side pass or change gait ect, he's confused, he just speeds up faster.
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post #3 of 17 Old 08-10-2013, 05:30 PM
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first of all, pretty much all horses will become more excited at the canter, especially in a group. It doesn't matter if it looks like the side of a road, though the similarity to past places where your horse was raced is probably a part of the problem . But, the canter is always a place where horses tend to flip from the more thiniking side of the brain to the more reactive side of the brain.

That's why you have to have problems worked out really well at lower gaits, so that when you go into the canter, they will remember the training better, since it's more automatic.

Since your horse has been trained to come behind the bit you will probably have to work on slowing him without using a straight pull back on the reins, since he knows how to avoid that. Are you using a snaffle? (and I dont' mean a shanked snaffle). If so, utilitze lots of small circles to slow him when he starts to lose him mind at the canter. So, if he wont slow to the rein, then circle him until he does, then let him come out forward (not riding the reins) and if he speeds up again, circle again. Don't ride the "brakes", but utilize him working harder to circle to encourage him to maybe want to stay slow of his own accord.
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post #4 of 17 Old 08-10-2013, 06:11 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tinyliny View Post
first of all, pretty much all horses will become more excited at the canter, especially in a group. It doesn't matter if it looks like the side of a road, though the similarity to past places where your horse was raced is probably a part of the problem . But, the canter is always a place where horses tend to flip from the more thiniking side of the brain to the more reactive side of the brain.

That's why you have to have problems worked out really well at lower gaits, so that when you go into the canter, they will remember the training better, since it's more automatic.

Since your horse has been trained to come behind the bit you will probably have to work on slowing him without using a straight pull back on the reins, since he knows how to avoid that. Are you using a snaffle? (and I dont' mean a shanked snaffle). If so, utilitze lots of small circles to slow him when he starts to lose him mind at the canter. So, if he wont slow to the rein, then circle him until he does, then let him come out forward (not riding the reins) and if he speeds up again, circle again. Don't ride the "brakes", but utilize him working harder to circle to encourage him to maybe want to stay slow of his own accord.

Yes this is true, but he wont slow down and calm down, even afterwards he still acts excited and jiggy. But the circles sound like a good Idea. Should I start as soon as he tries to speed up, or do it before we go to canter?

And also im riding him in a grazing tom thumb. Could it be a bit issue? :/ as far as I know, that's what theyve been using on him.

When im riding him I don't straight pull on the reins all the time, only if its really necessary. I generally try and slow him down why relaxing and swinging my legs a tad forward and just thinking "slow" it works amazing in the walk and trot and somewhat at the canter but he still tries to race ahead.
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post #5 of 17 Old 08-10-2013, 07:00 PM Thread Starter
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post #6 of 17 Old 08-10-2013, 07:01 PM
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Pulling straight back on the reins doesn't work on the horse I ride either (ex racer) but if I massage the bit back and forth a bit in her mouth lightly she comes right back to me and starts to listen again.
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post #7 of 17 Old 08-10-2013, 07:15 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by JulieG View Post
Pulling straight back on the reins doesn't work on the horse I ride either (ex racer) but if I massage the bit back and forth a bit in her mouth lightly she comes right back to me and starts to listen again.
Yeah I sorta doo that too, or if I have to stop really suddenly I take a rein in each and and sorta pull on one then the other sorta like a gentle saw motion I guess. That works well but im trying to avoid having to do that.
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post #8 of 17 Old 08-10-2013, 11:33 PM
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I have heard BAD things about any type of Tom Thumb, I would suggest getting a different bit. I don't know if you do games with him, but if you do I would use a different bit for trail riding than for gaming.

The moment he starts speeding up, stop and back his butt up about 15' then ask again, EVERY single time do this. Once he canters say 50' without speeding up, go down to a trot and go home.

Or

Do the circle method, the moment he starts going faster do a 20m circle if you can.

But make sure you stick with ONE method, changing methods or using 2 at the same time confuses them. Even if one isn't working, keep with it.
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post #9 of 17 Old 08-10-2013, 11:41 PM
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Go wherever. Arena. Field. Trail. Anywhere relatively "safe".

Work him up to a lope. Don't pull on his face when you ask for the transition. Let him have completely loose rein and if he tries to take off, sit down, stop his butt in the dirt, back up 10 feet, stop, and let him chill out for a minute just standing and start over until he lopes off nicely and therefore learns that loping isnt something super exciting like trotting or walking - its just another gear.

It took me an hour and a half to get this to work for my mare - but it worked.

"all I ever dreamt about was makin' it; they ain't giving it, I'm taking it"
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post #10 of 17 Old 08-11-2013, 06:06 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys for the help! I don't game so I will see if I can find another bit. And when I ride him today ill try backing him up.
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