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Help with Bolting

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        08-09-2009, 04:31 PM
      #11
    Weanling
    He may be use to more work and is getting fresh on you. You may need to get someone who can help you for a few weeks. Do your ground work, have them ride for an hour or so and then you finish the ride. Get you over that hump of not being confident in him and him not fully respecting you.
    I am going to have someone do something similar with my colt - he has a couple more blow-ups pent up in there. I will either have them work him a week or we will work together with me doing ground work, my friend riding him out, and me finishing. I don't like the flighty feeling that comes when I am not sure how the horse will blow up.
         
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        08-09-2009, 05:04 PM
      #12
    Foal
    I don't exactly approve of the method of putting a horse in a stall with a bunch of scary stuff to desensitize them, or leaving them with the halter and lead rope on, but I thought that I'd throw it out there :)
         
        08-09-2009, 05:16 PM
      #13
    Showing
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by ZippoNDixon    
    I don't exactly approve of the method of putting a horse in a stall with a bunch of scary stuff to desensitize them, or leaving them with the halter and lead rope on, but I thought that I'd throw it out there :)
    I put mine out in the dry lot (about 1-2 acres) with the scary stuff. I have seen trainers put them in stalls with milk jugs and plastic bags tied all round them though. Not sure how I feel about that.
    I never left my foals more than a few hours at a time with the lead rope trailing them. Its does work wonders I have to admit.
         
        08-09-2009, 06:39 PM
      #14
    Super Moderator
    How long had you been riding him for when he'd start to do that?

    I used to lease a horse that would start bolting as soon as she got tired. You could ride her for an hour or so but over that and she'd find stuff to freak out about and take off.

    Does the saddle fit well? Is the bit a snaffle or something similarly friendly like that?
         
        08-09-2009, 09:43 PM
      #15
    Yearling
    Most horses I've worked with will be on their best behavior for the first couple of weeks in a new place. After that, their real personality begins to come out. Personally, I don't think there is any "fixing this from the ground"...mounted problems can only be worked/fixed while mounted. Based on what you've said and your perception of it, he reminds me of a horse who isn't being ridden in the way he's accustomed to. Something you are doing is different than he is used to and he's running around like a wild child in an attempt to "obey" hoping something sucks in while waiting for you to tell him what to do in a way he understands. If you can, call the previous owners and talk to them about how they rode him, what bit they used, cues, and so forth.
         
        08-10-2009, 06:11 AM
      #16
    Started
    Rosie. Your horse has moved from his old place, where let us be honest, you probably don't know what happened to him to your place - where he knows nothing and noone. Sellers of horses aren't known for telling the whole truth. He has not yet made a connection with his new surroundings (although interestingly he did run back to his stable). WHen you take him out, he knows you are a different rider and that you are going to take him where he has not been before. So he gets frightened. When he's frightened he will think of running away. He will also be unpredictable.
    At this stage be very carefull he doesn't hurt you even if only accidentally.

    WHere do you start? - at the very beginning. At this early stage you have to give him the benefit of the doubt.
    Your first job is to ease his fears. Try to establish a new routine with him and keep to it. Groom him - often. Make sure it is you that gives him any feed - and cut down on the energy intake. Restrict his access to fresh green grass. Watch his waistline - use a measuring tape. Stroke him, talk to him. Wear the same clothes every time. He must learn to recognise your voice, smell, body language and touch. He must come to accept a new routine.

    Then start a programme of work in hand. Walk him round in a confined arena. Stand at his head so he can see your face. Use the pressure on the lead rope carefully - try to use as little back pressure as possible.
    Walk him past scary things - bags, bags, signs. (When doing this work, wear a riding hat and good tough boots and don't wrap the rope around your hands)
    Repeat the same routine every time.
    Try not to damage his mouth - use a training halter which works on the nose and poll.

    Then swop to lunging him. Just walk & halt. Then trot. Not too long though. Leave out the canter for the time being.

    The principle I am suggesting is that he has got to lose his fears and put his trust in you. But you have got to earn that trust. No loud voice. No waving arms No crop. But you must be very positive if he does anything to hurt you - but don't get angry. Chastise him if necessary but by tone of voice - nothing physical.

    These first few months are very important with a skittish horse. The work you put in now may save a lot of pain and heartache later on. If you can build a bond with this chap, then you will have won. Once he starts to neigh when he hears your car, then you are beginning to win.

    Barry Godden

    PS I cheat. I always keep a carrot or a small apple in my pocket. As I say hello I give my horse ( a skittish mare) something to nibble. As I leave I always say good night and again I give her a small horse biscuit. I get told off by every body but it works for me and my horse. She's got me round her finger now - but it has taken a year.

    B G
         
        08-11-2009, 02:45 PM
      #17
    Weanling
    Thanks for all the advice...Barry, this is pretty much what I am doing now. At his previous home, he was ridden by a uber beginner rider who had no clue what she was doing and let him run away with her constantly. After the last bolt, she put him out to pasture and left him alone until he sold.

    I did ride him before I bought him, he was very responsive to seat and hand aids and I was impressed. I could whisper what I wanted and he immediately responded. His saddle and other gear fit very well. He is only "trail broke", he knows no leads, no collection,etc none of that which I am teaching him.

    He already knows the sound of my car and meets me at the gate when I drive up. We are working in the round pen everyday at the walk and trot, I am basically putting him on the same basic program I put my OTTBs on which works very well for them. I think it is going to be the routine that will work best for him.

    Oh, I have already fired our local trainer. Her first insistance was to bit him up, and that's not going to work for me. I'll let you know what happens inthe next couple of weeks.
         
        08-11-2009, 02:50 PM
      #18
    Weanling
    Why don't you bit them up?
         
        08-11-2009, 03:19 PM
      #19
    Banned
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Barrelracer Up    
    Why don't you bit them up?
    I ride problem horses. Runaways, barn sour and each I handle different but the same.. For the confirmed runaways I put in a big western bit with a curb chain and port. I then encourage the horse to run and then set him down on his butt after a big loud WHOA and then hit him with my back and shoulder muscles and pull him down harshly. I then encourage him to run again. Again the big WHOA and then hit him with the bit again.
    They don't run the 3rd time.
    I would bit him up. I don't buy this new place, work from the ground, build a foundation. All crap.
    If you are afraid of him he will know it and run. Confidence, no nonesense and enough bit to shut him down hard will do it.
    Snaffle bit?? Forget it unless you couple it with a running martingale adjusted properly and are a strong rider.
    All young horses bolt in the first few weeks of training but a firm hand quickly shuts them down and the habit disappears.
         
        08-12-2009, 12:47 AM
      #20
    Weanling
    I do a lot of ground work and flexing/give exercises on the ground. I usually will "bit" one up in a halter tied to either a surcingle or a saddle.
    I usually start driving them during this period too. I start in a halter then will introduce a snaffle and bit them up in it. Then I will drive in the snaffle. Age is the factor on when I will actually begin riding them.

    I like bitting them up so that they learn to give to pressure, immediately reward themselves with release of pressure and they only fight themselves. We are human and tend to not always be consistent with our give and take - especially on the young guys. There is only one right when they are bitted.

    Story: Now my 3 yr old filly has been handled nearly daily since I imprinted her at birth. That cow pulled a high O silver the other day. I put her in a cowboy snaffle for the 3rd time. She started pulling the reins from me and locking up while I was riding, so I got off and went to back her and she flipped all the way over. I bitted her up for 30 min. Each side and she has been sweet as pie since. Glad I felt the need to get off, cause she was probably ready to do that with the slightest inclination. She has never done anything that extreme before, though she will pin her ears and kick out when I get to working her hard and asking for a lot of collection.
    Told her today I was going to send her to a cowboy trainer I know who would work her like I have never thought of working her. My training regime will be a walk in the park compared to what he will put her through. She really starts acting like a beach, I will put a barrel pattern on her. She'll be begging to go back to WP.

    Sorry for the vent That ^@$^*!!
         

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