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post #1 of 7 Old 12-13-2006, 09:54 AM Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Houston,TX
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Hey everyone, check this out... i recently just purchased a new horse ( 16.3 14yr old Thoroughbred gelding), and i am constantly having to struggle pulling him down to a walk. He is very strong and immediately wants to pull me into the trot and canter. What should be the immediate thing i need to concetrate on? Walking and halting? Also, I am having his teeth floated this week but could teeth alone set that big of a problem? Thanks everyone!
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post #2 of 7 Old 12-13-2006, 10:41 AM
Join Date: Nov 2006
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i'm no trainer, but the first thing i would have in place is lateral flexions (if its not already).

i had the same problem with my appendix mare when i first got her. now that the trainer is working with her, he has her doing them wonderfully and that emergency stop is in place.

at this time, if she wants to go faster or pull, he stops her and does the flexions, and backs her up a few steps, and she now knows, when he does that, that she needs to concentrate on what he wants, not what she wants.

hope this helps.....
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post #3 of 7 Old 12-13-2006, 03:14 PM
Join Date: Oct 2006
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My Thoroughbred did this every time I did a downward transition. My trainer told me to turn him in a circle then back him up after. It worked after only a couple of times. But basically this is what mommadog1956 said above.
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post #4 of 7 Old 12-13-2006, 04:36 PM
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The most important thing to concentrate on are his teeth. Once a vet or dentist has checked and done any work needed, then progress to training. Yes, any dental pain can cause multiple problems; this problem may be eliminated with dental work. I would recommend postponing any training until after a dental check. If he is in pain and is being problematic to tell you about his pain, training may cause future problems or misunderstandings.
Ride after the dental work has been done to see if there are any changes. If not, update us and I'm sure someone could be helpful to you!
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post #5 of 7 Old 12-20-2006, 01:28 PM
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when you are in a walk tell your horse that its in a walk and allways say praise in a higher voice then any other command

This is also a classic example of horses that need more time spent in them and that means that the horse will always try to please you

Try lunging beafore you ride and the horse will tyre slightly

I am the youngest horse whisperer
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post #6 of 7 Old 12-20-2006, 11:11 PM
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Horatio, SC
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If the problem isn't oral, heres some advice =)

When my horse would get "explode-y" I would concentrate my energy on bending, circling, flexing, and weaving. The Arena I ride in has tons of jumps in it. I would constantly weave in and out of jumps, circle, leg yield, move from a 20 meter circle to a 10 meter circle.. figure 8 at the trot, etc. If you don't have jumps, get cones (sold at Lowes or Home Depot) set them up randomly all over your riding space and just weave from pole to pole. This will get him listening to you, since he doesnt know which way he is going to turn next.

The canter can be very hard to control once they blow. Once my gelding 'sploded.. it would take me more time to get him back, haha!

I would recommend setting a goal with each ride to attain a more controlled horse. Your goal.. get him to walk at the pace YOU are comfortable with. This could take allot of trot work.. or not much at all. Once he walks at your pace, continue the ride for about 10 minutes at first (expand this time period with each ride) then dismount, untack, and praise! Cookies, Carrots, whatever! When he realizes that he will be rewarded with being untacked and spoiled when he chills out.. he will begin to do it on his own =)

This will take time and consistancy! Dont get too ahead of yourself!

By the way, he is HANDSOME!

-Skippy! The Wonder Horse!
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post #7 of 7 Old 12-21-2006, 07:58 AM
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As you've probably found by now, you'll never out pull a horse using both reins. They're simply too strong and learn very quickly to brace against you or avoid the bit by tucking their heads. I always teach horses a one-rein stop the first day I'm in the saddle. The groundwork is laid by starting while the horse is standing still. Take all the slack out of one rein and pull the horse's head around to your boot. It doesn't matter which rein at this point. Horses respond differently to this exercise and you'll get different responses. Most likely, the horse will begin to turn in a circle, run in a circle, back up, or even rear up as he tries to figure out how to release the pressure. No matter what, don't release the pressure until his feet stop moving. The release must be instantaneous. Repeat this exercise over and over until he learns exactly what he must do to get out of the fix he's in. Most horses will fight you so be prepared not to give in until his feet stop moving. Horses learn this very quicky. If your consistant, 30 minutes usually does the trick. Horses don't transfer left to right so you'll have to teach him on both sides. Once he learns it standing still, go to the walk, then to the trot, then to the canter. Just teaching him at the walk, for instance, won't automatically work at the trot because the horse doesn't make the connection until he's taught at all his gaits. Once he's learned this lesson, picking up one rein will stop him no matter what speed he's going. With practice, he'll learn
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