Horse that just wont STOP! - Page 2 - The Horse Forum
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post #11 of 21 Old 05-29-2011, 05:24 PM
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The snaffle isn't working because the bit should not be your primary aid for stopping (or turning or anything else for that matter) a horse. Once the horse gets some retraining, the horse has no reason to not go properly in a snaffle.

A bit is not brakes.

If she is showing, she should make sure her horse is responsive at home in a snaffle of some sort before upping him to a leverage bit for showing.

If the OP likes, maybe try a double jointed snaffle that does not have the nutcracker effect.
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post #12 of 21 Old 05-29-2011, 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Spastic_Dove View Post
The snaffle isn't working because the bit should not be your primary aid for stopping (or turning or anything else for that matter) a horse. Once the horse gets some retraining, the horse has no reason to not go properly in a snaffle.

A bit is not brakes.

SD, Do you mind if I repeat... A bit is NOT brakes.

I agree that she just needs more training, certainly not a stronger bit. Spend time mastering things at a walk & trot before worrying about the canter. A good responsive stop, or anything we ask of our horses really comes from all of your aids.

Life is like a camera. Focus on what's important, Capture the good times, Develop from the negatives and if things don't work out, Take another shot.
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post #13 of 21 Old 05-29-2011, 05:50 PM
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I agree with the others the bit is not your brakes.

My newest horse is similar to yours not wanting to stop and he chucks his head up and braces himself against your hands, a stronger bit would have simply made him harder in the mouth. I have taken the time to get him focused and it has taken a few months and he is still no where near great at it but he has definitely improved. I have simply worked with him on stopping with my others using my hands as a last resort. He still has his days but once he is warmed up he stops from a walk just using my seat, I can control his pace when trotting just using my seat and I can bring him back to a walk just using my seat and voice most times. I haven't even tried cantering until I have the gaits before under control, I will start working on his canter soon though. You should work on the slower gaits before moving up. I think this what you need to do.

Oh and my boy is in a snaffle.

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along with our dogs Patch and Bear.
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post #14 of 21 Old 05-30-2011, 04:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Teeny View Post
I usually say 'whoa' because she actually responds to that very well and also saying her nickname (teeny) helps , but when she just runs through the bit i hold my hands to the sides and pull ( is that right or wrong) but if she doesnt respond to that i turn her in a cicle anc then she just walks again
How does she lunge? Because if she responds well to your voice then maybe it may be worth lunging her and getting her used to your voice 'aids' such as "walk" "trot" "canter" obviously using tone of voice as to weather you want her to move up or down in transition.

After she lunges well then ask somebody else to lunge her whilst you are riding... but with you giving voice aids.... maybe this will help?

My mare used to be similar when i got her... (ironically she came to me in a pelham... but i changed her to a snaffle because bit made no difference) when i lunged her she used to not stop once in canter but after months of lunging sessions she understands now and i can ride her using purely my voice (and seat obviously)

And you mention about turning her in circles and she walks.... do you think this may have just become habit that you both anticipate? therefor you both believe this is the only way to stop? just something to think about...

These are only suggestions xx good luck
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post #15 of 21 Old 05-30-2011, 04:32 AM
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OH also.. if you are consantly pulling and she is constantly running...try half-halt (sqeeze and release, sqeeze and release.... etc..)
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post #16 of 21 Old 05-30-2011, 05:20 AM
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whenever slowing or stopping a horse it should be done with squeezes and releases just like person above me said. give whatever cue you want (seat/voice), then back it up by picking up on the reins untill the horse is slowing at all then release the reins, followed by picking them up again etc.. they learn faster that way, there's less for them to ignore/lean on, and it helps them to engage while stopping, which are all very useful things if you ever want a good stop.

also backing the horse up will help.
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post #17 of 21 Old 05-30-2011, 08:32 AM
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I am another one who suggests the "squeeze, release of the reins" rather than a straight pull of the reins. A horse will run right through a straight direct pull of any sort. In some instances, when I felt the need I have also resorted to doing a small less than an inch of a see-saw give and take of one rein then the other in rapid succession. As an example, I was helping a friend train his Saddlebred mares to drive/pull a wagon. We started out with harnessing each mare to a sulky type cart and doing preliminary driving training that way one horse at a time. On one session I was driving the sulky cart with one of the mares. She spooked and took off galloping with me on the cart. I remained calm, started doing the small squeeze, release with slight one rein to the other less than an inch of squeeze and release see-saw of the reins. Even though I was not mounted on her I talked to her from behind her on the cart. She came "back to me" in a very short time.

I do not believe in going to a more severe bit to correct any problems that can be fixed by less severe methods. My learned theory with horses is that "less is better". I have another example of "less being better". Back several years ago I worked at a Western/English Tack and Clothing Store. I had a man come in the Store asking me to help him with a more severe than what he was using with his horse. I asked him what the problem was with his horse. He told me his horse was not stopping or slowing when asked. I took a complete Western bridle from our supply and asked him to show me what he was riding his horse with bridle-wise. He pointed out the under the chin curb strap was one of the flat leather type. I suggested he get a try a chain curb strap and told him how to make the proper adjustment. He took my advice and a few days later he came back into the store and I asked how that simple solution had worked form him. His reply, "his a different horse now". You know to this day I feel I saved a horse from receiving a terrible experience.

I also agree that the bit is not the brakes.
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post #18 of 21 Old 05-30-2011, 08:03 PM
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Try riding her in a harsher bit. She can probably run right through that snaffle. And try a pair of forks.
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post #19 of 21 Old 05-30-2011, 08:04 PM
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Also instead of pulling back and holding it, try to pull and release. (bumping) at the horses mouth
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post #20 of 21 Old 05-30-2011, 08:57 PM
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I have had many horses like this come in and I find that their desire to run is a short lived situation.
I mean if a horse has a desire to run....I let them and don't really get into a fight about it.
Run,run,run and then I check in to see if they are at all interested in stopping.
If not we run,and run,and run.

Now we want to stop all of a sudden and no we can't yet.
Run some more and all of a sudden we can stop any time we want as their attitude changes.

Most people that are not accustomed to a good strong gallop go into panic mode and never see what happens on the other side.
It is just fine and the horse tires and slows into a lope in most cases.

Three or four sessions like that and they just stop the big gallop in many cases.

It is a glass is half full or half empty kind of thing and I choose to approach it as half full and enjoy the gallop for a bit instead of hauling on their mouth.

Bits are not for stopping.

"The greatest strength is gentleness."
- Iroquois Proverb
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