Horse refuses to turn, doesnt like bit.. help!! - Page 2
   

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Horse refuses to turn, doesnt like bit.. help!!

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  • Horse doesnt like three piece bit
  • Horse training in latex

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    01-13-2012, 02:12 PM
  #11
Green Broke
Can't STAND looking at Arab pics--reminds me too much of my "Corporal" who passed away in 2009. **sniffle**
TOO cute!!!
I suggest that you try "slobber straps".
Martin Slobber Straps - Statelinetack.com
These give an immediate release when you are not in contact with the horse's mouth. Also, PLEASE get rid of those reins. I've had MANY bridles and reins over the years with those brackets and they have failed me MANY TIMES. The ONLY thing worse is Chicago screws!
You need reins that either buckle or tie--they come in both leather and synthetic.
I even had leather reins with a long slit. You created a loop out of the slit end and ran the end of the rein through the bit's ring and threaded it through the loop--cool design. The military even used to sew their reins to the bridle so you wouldn't loose control of the horse. It WILL frighten him if you lose a rein. Sorry to be lengthy, just FYI. =D
     
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    01-13-2012, 02:27 PM
  #12
Super Moderator
Great video! I learned something. The tieing up part is useful.
     
    01-13-2012, 03:25 PM
  #13
Foal
Thanks for the video... very helpful :)
     
    01-17-2012, 01:03 PM
  #14
Foal
Some horses don't care for snaffle bits. The first bit I got for Flicka was a double jointed D-ring and she wouldn't stop chewing on it and opening her mouth. I switched to a Myler bit and she's much quieter in the mouth now. I know a couple other horses that really liked the switch to a Myler bit as well.

Not saying that it will definitely work for your horse, but if you have an opportunity to try one, I would give it a go. I think some horses like less "play" in the mouthpiece and no nutcracker action that a snaffle might have. I hope you can get your issue worked out! :)
     
    01-17-2012, 01:29 PM
  #15
Yearling
I would suggest that you go back and reteach giving to the bit from the ground. I would also suggest that you get him a bit that 'tastes' good. My coming three year old was introduced to the bit by my trainer who always wraps the bits in latex since youngsters like to chew and mess with the bit, it is a bit softer. When I transitioned him out of the latex wrapped bit into a plain stainless steel one, he did not appreciate it. He would fling his head and would not stop messing with it. I put my mare's copper mouth Dee on him and he just loves it. I guess it tastes good. Haven't had a problem since and he collects in the lines for me with this bit as well as he did for the latex one.

More pics? He is adorable! Is he registered?
     
    01-18-2012, 11:22 AM
  #16
Foal
I have always wanted to try a Myler bit, but they are just so expensive but I am willing to spend what is needed... Maybe one of my friends has one that I could give a try? Hmm :p

Yes he is registered, here are some more pictures...
Attached Images
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File Type: jpg IMG_1100 (2).jpg (40.2 KB, 71 views)
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grayshell38 likes this.
     
    01-18-2012, 11:37 AM
  #17
rob
Weanling
This horse doesnt look that old and he has a soft eye,i believe that if you put a saddle on him with some back girth dees,take your snaffle and tie his head to the left,then to the right for about 7 to 10 minutes each way,you will see a difference in his turning.
     
    01-21-2012, 07:12 PM
  #18
Foal
Perhaps you are no using your entire body to move him ver, if he is still green, he may not be understanding the cue to turn, and the pressure is worrying him, have you taught him to yield to pressure? He is a young horse, with a foreign object in his moth, he may just be not sure, the bit may be too thick or thing, the joint ay be bothering him, there is alot of things that you can look at :)

Have you ever rode in a hackamore or bitless/halter??
     
    01-22-2012, 12:18 AM
  #19
Green Broke
Maybe just re-thinking about how you are asking him to turn and give to the bit will help. (Provided we get any tack issues solved.)

Starting from the ground ......
Let's bend to the left first. Stand at his side by the left stirrup. Take a hold of the left rein and gently but firmly add pressure and hold steady until he responds. Do not pull harder; keep the exact same tension on the reins even if he starts moving his body and trying to walk in a circle (which is okay in the beginning). Just keep your same body position and the same pressure on the rein even if you have to do it for 10 minutes. The very instant he creates the smallest amount of slack in the rein by giving to the pressure on his own, you need to release the rein immediately. You don't need to give him any extra praise, because releasing the pressure of the rein is his reward for correct behavor. Allow him to stand for about 15 seconds so he can "comprehend" what he just did. Then ask him again.

When he gets quick and consistent in his responses to a very small amount of rein pressure, start expecting him to give more before he earns his release. Just slowly increase the increments, making sure he is consistent at each "level" before you ask for more. Eventually, you'll be asking him to give his nose all the way to the left stirrup for his release. And naturally, he should also be standing still when he does this because he will learn you are not asking him to move his feet, but just to simply give his nose to the pressure.

Of course, work both sides (right and left) evenly.

To keep him from anticipating the direction, you can ask him to give to the bit on the left side while you are standing on his right side (for example). Just reach over the top of him to put pressure on the rein on the opposite side. This usually works easier once he understands that he does not have to move his feet for this exercise, so you don't have to try to avoid getting your feet stepped on while reaching over him. And this exercise usually confuses them right away because at this point, they've always been giving to the bit on the side you are standing. So that's why it is good exercise to follow the cue.

Once he knows this concept from the ground (and it may take up to a few weeks -- it really depends on the horse), then you can do the exact same thing from the saddle, starting just standing still and starting by just asking him to give a little bit.

The most important concept here is that you must release the pressure immediately when he gives to the bit. If you do not do this at the proper timing, he will not get a reward and he will learn to brace against the bit or ignore it competely.

As you are doing these exercises from the saddle, you can also be doing leg cues at the same time so that's he's learning them along with the rein cue (so then we are expecting feet movement if we are giving a leg cue). For a left turn, you'll do your regular direct rein pressure on the left rein. At the same time, make sure you keep your left leg OFF him, while applying pressure with your right leg slightly forward to "push" his front end over to the left. As always, once he turns the amount you want, you need to immediately release the pressure. Start with a small amount, and work all the way to making a 360 degree turn.

It's all about being consistent, releasing pressure at the correct moment, and gradually building your way up.

And it can never hurt to go all the way back to ground work bascis in order to fix an issue like this.

Being sassy is not an excuse. Ever. You are the leader in your team and you need to stay persistent and never stop cueing him until he gives you a proper response. Even if you have to sit there for an hour with the exact same pressure. You don't stop asking until he gives you the right answer. Don't ask "harder" -- just be persistent.
     
    01-22-2012, 10:06 PM
  #20
Foal
Thank you everyone for the help!

Beau159- thank you! I worked on him today, even though I did not have much time, and he seemed more responsive. I still have a long way to go but your post definitely helped me
     

Tags
arabian, bit, green broke, problems, turning

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