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How to build up muscle in an un-rideable shape?

6K views 39 replies 21 participants last post by  PaintedFury 
#1 ·
Recently, I bought a very out-of-shape horse. Smart choice, eh? Well, basicly, his owner was four months' behind on his board, and it was horrifying to see him wasting away till he was practicly only skin and bones. His owner hasn't been out in a year, so I contacted her and bought him and all of his tack and such.
Well, the only problem is he is un-ridable and un-lungable because of his horrid condition. I've started walking him in the arena, but even afterd 5-6 times around, his knees start shaking and he lowers his head real low. So how do I build up that muscle he so desprately needs??
 
#2 ·
Recently, I bought a very out-of-shape horse. Smart choice, eh? Well, basicly, his owner was four months' behind on his board, and it was horrifying to see him wasting away till he was practicly only skin and bones. His owner hasn't been out in a year, so I contacted her and bought him and all of his tack and such.
Well, the only problem is he is un-ridable and un-lungable because of his horrid condition. I've started walking him in the arena, but even afterd 5-6 times around, his knees start shaking and he lowers his head real low. So how do I build up that muscle he so desprately needs??
If he's really in that bad of a condition, my first stop would be a vet's work-up. As a recent purchase he ought to have that done anyway. Make sure that it's physically ok for him to be doing anything at all. He may just need to spend a few months turned out on appropriate pasture (he'll walk himself as much as he's comfortable :wink:), and on an appropriate diet to bring his weight back up. If he's that thin that 5-6 laps of walk exhausts him, he'll need some groceries and vet attention before he can be expected to be anything more than a pasture ornament. Age is a factor as well - you didn't address his age in you post, but older horses just don't bounce back like younger ones do.

With a vet's OK, I would just do what you're doing. Start very slow and easy with short hand walks, hand grazing, and lots of turnout.

Best of luck, and kudos for taking him on!! :)
 
#4 ·
sorry I left out so much :[
age: about 15. not too old, but he's getting up there.
The barn has occasional vet check-ups, and unfortunantly I couldn't make it out for mickies, but jodi (my trainer) said the vet said He was a normal wieght, he just is so lacking in muscle you can count his ribs. They had to tranqulize him for the farrier, he's that bad.
He's been turned out in the pasture for the last couple of month's, even before I bought him because I mowed a pasture that was previously un-horseable, and with alot of help got it refenced with electrobrand, so that's where he's been. He's gained mostly just enough wieght to be walking in the arena.

thanks so much for the help :]
 
#7 ·
ack. Everything I say comes out wrong. He IS ribby, but that dosn't mean he is grossly underwieght. Yes, he is underwieght, but under the influence of my vet, I've been working on muscel more then wieght.
he has been on two scoops of safechoice for the last two and a half months, and he's been out in the pasture full time. Its just everywhere he needs muscle, it just caves in.
Yes, I've talked to my vet about his wieght. He says the only thin gI need to be working on for right now is his muscle build up. He didn't speicify how.
 
#9 ·
I'm perplexed that a boarding stable owner would allow a horse to get in this condition. :-( I know that it wasn't their horse, but I couldn't stand to see a horse that got in such horrible condition he couldn't *walk* around the arena without tiring out. This sounds much worse than just being under conditioned. Was he kept in a stall all this time?? If so, that seems soooo CRUEL to me.

I would worry about fattening him up a little first. Empower is a fantastic fat supplement that will yield results almost immediately! Not overly expensive, either.

But are you sure there isn't something more significantly wrong with him if he can't even be lunged around at a walk?? That sounds much, much worse than a horse who just hasn't been exercised. Sounds like he was confined in a small space to the point his muscles have begun to atrophy...and like I said...had I been the barn owner, I'd never have allowed this to happen. Ever. I wouldn't care if it wasn't my horse.

That being said, get the recommendations of a good vet. Have some blood work done. Take it slow and easy, but work with him every day.
 
#30 ·
I wouldn't recomend beat pulp in this case. I've only seen it used to put weight on horses that have to much energy and are be discouraged from moving around. It gives them weight but no energy. If the horse can barely make it around the areana it needs more energy and beat pulp doesn't really give them any energy. Also it has to be really carefully soaked or it can cause colic. If the people at the barn are kinda iffy about taking care of someone elses horse I wouldn't want them feeding her beat pulp.
 
#11 ·
thanks guys :] great advice!
He's been on a bunch of wieght building plans, which is why Im looking for muscle building up programs, but the wieght build-up plans are always welcome.

to cobalt- yeah, He basicly had a tiny little paddock, where he didnt move, he just stood all day.
 
#12 ·
If he is showing a few ribs, start working him. If his hips and tail bone are prominent, dont.

I would start working him in hand. I would certainly start working on the farrier issue. Its not something you can put off forever...farrier visits every 6-8 weeks and if you have to have him sedated every time...thats gonna get pricey! I've seen some pretty emaciated horses...never had to have one sedated to do his feet.

Take him for long walks. Not just around your farm...just like a trail ride only in hand. It helps them bond to you and to see that you are the leader on the trail and at home. Lots of hill work. If he is lacking muscle and not fat, the only thing that can solve that is slow, steady, consistant exercise. We had a mare at our barn that only ever walked on trails. She was massive. Walking up hill requires more work and more balance than trotting or cantering. If you are concerned with his weight, always stop just as he starts getting warm. If that takes 10 minutes, 10 minutes it is. If it takes an hour...you get the point!

Good luck with him...pictures sure would help us asses his over all condition.
 
#17 ·
I'm sorry but I am going to have to disagree on this one. Fat does NOT "turn into" muscle. They are two completely different cell types, two completely different tissue types. Muscle is muscle, it shrinks and expands, fat shrinks and expands. It is possible to have both, it is possible to lack both, or to have one or the other....but they do not turn into each other, it's biologically impossible.

I do however agree with getting a little extra weight on before the muscle. not sure where you are at but is Winter is coming as it is always okay to put a little extra on a horse, especially an older one for winter. Muscle will not keep him nearly as warm as fat. I would also look into what feeds your vet suggests to keep him warm in the winter and start preparing now so you are all set once that cold air comes in you are good to go.

Also, is there an arena where you are? Do you have access to a sandy arena or a sandy area...walking in sand is GREAT for adding muscle...
 
#14 ·
If his knees are wobbling and he can't handle being hand walked you probably have much bigger problems than building muscle!

I rehabilitated my horse and I was not able to ride or lunge him either. We did a lot of hand walking every single day. Maybe you can only start doing 10 or 15 minutes at a time and gradually build up from there as he starts getting stronger.

You can also try ground driving to make things a little more interesting.

Try really hard to keep from making things repetitive and boring and souring your time together. Throw in some ground work exercises, games and tricks so your horse's mind can be stimulated as well as his muscles!

I've been there and it's hard having a horse who can't even be lunged! Do as much as you can and it will not only help keep the both of you sane and from losing interest but it will really pay off once you can start working on other things. :)
 
#16 ·
Let him gain weight, THEN work on his strength...right now he needs all of his strength just to get around on his own. He can wait to 'get in shape' until he is in better shape.
 
#19 ·
I would be very very concerned about the leg shaking after 5 laps of an arena. He probably is severly lacking nuitrients also weak and weight loss etc can signal serious worm infestation he could also have anemaia.
Your first thing is to get the vet out and get a full check up with bloods etc taken and make sure your there get his teeth and shots done also.

Then you can start working on building up his weight once your sure intermally everything is moving correctly untill that si done id have him in a field with mayeb one other horse so competition is minimsed.

I would start him on beetpulp and free choice hay as much as he can eat preferably. Buy a nice thick rug and keep him rugged up so as he wastes no energy trying to stay warm.
YOu main worry should be building strength and fat before starting to build muscle
 
#20 ·
MaggiStar has a good point. If he isn't "that" skinny (pics would help a lot here) and is still that weak I think he has some major internal issues going on. You need to get a fecal and possibly bloodwork.

If he's just really skinny and still weak get him to gain some weight (others had good suggestions) and then start hand walking him.

One good way to get him to move around more AND give him more food is to have him in a bigger paddock/pasture and spread his hay all over. I like to split my hay into 6-12 piles 20 feet apart or so. This keeps him moving around and helps to stimulate normal grazing behavior.
 
#21 ·
:]
vet came today, and I got everything cleared up, with alot of y'alls opinions to bring up. (thanks!!!!)

I told him I'm thinking Micki should build up more fat, and he immidiatly disagreed with me. He showed me his spine, and started telling me all thoroughbreds are going to be very thin, and micki is a normal wieght, but he needs to build up the muscle to be able to be worked, and continued to gesture to his back, which is caved in, and started giving me tips on how to gently work him up to speed enough to be lunged.
It also turns out Micki has white line disease, and possibly an abscess, and no one had anyway of knowing because he always limps around, and he turns into another horse when you try to pick his hooves.

so now a have a new mission to tackle with my dearest micki. :]

thanks for all of the help!!!
<3
 
#27 ·
I am assuming here that when you say his back is caved in you mean the space between his spine and the top of his rib cage? If that is the case, then he DOES need more weight before you start focusing too much on muscle.

I have 2 off the track thoroughbreds that are difficult keepers. I have been struggling to put weight on them for months and they both had that "caved in" look along the top line. That is filling in now as they put weight on. Not muscle, but fat.

Not to repeat what everyone else has been saying, but from what your describing and without pictures to see for ourselves, I would say he needs more fat than muscle at this point.

:]
It also turns out Micki has white line disease, and possibly an abscess, and no one had anyway of knowing because he always limps around, and he turns into another horse when you try to pick his hooves.
This concerns me too. He always limps around and you haven't had that checked out before? Perhaps thats why he almost collapses when you try to hand walk him. Sounds to me that the focus needs to come off muscle for a while and be put on general health and well being.
 
#23 ·
Every TB is supposed to be skinny? That is a load of BS. Are you sure your "vet" went to school? He sounds like he is lacking some serious knowledge. Just because a horse is a certain breed that means they can be underweight? My TB was skinny when I got her, and guess what? A food change and a supplement for two months, and look! I have a not-skinny Thoroughbred. Fat first, THEN muscle. Does your horse have a salt/mineral lick?
Posted via Mobile Device
 
#24 ·
^^^Ack. *facepalm*

ok, I'm not going to quote his exact words. He told me most TB's aren't going to be pot-bellied, and that Micki isn't ever going to be fat. He's not an easy keeper, as most of the TB's out at the barn where a board are not either. I trust my vet. He did not stereo type an entire breed, as I realize my words might have conveyed. He did, how ever, tell me many off the track thoroughbreds (as micki is) are usually pretty thin, and some stay that way.

Yes, Micki has a salt lick. and pasture time. and extra grain. and fancy wieght building suppliments from stateline.

Im sorry, but im getting a tince imaptientt. :] I appreciate you all's telling me about his wieght, how it needs to be built up. but I've talked this over with my trainer, and my vet. They both tell me his wieght is still a little under, but to get rid of that caved in back and his skinny shape is muscle and wieght, I need to start working him. I've been working on wieght for the last few months, and now they want me to get started on building up muscle.

but thank you guys, all of the tips on wieght building and muscle building **really** help me out. We've been walking in the arena.
 
#28 ·
I'm perplexed that a boarding stable owner would allow a horse to get in this condition.

Funny! Thats all the boarding stables do here, short of paying $450 a month... you end up with thin horses :( it isn't "their horse" so they claim the horse is a hard keeper and have you bring your own feed in, which then is fed to everyone else to lower there bill. I'm seeing this OVER and OVER.
 
#29 ·
@ New Image: Yeah, me and the barn owner aren't what you might call best friends. I've had alot of issues with her, but she's the only barn I can afford, what with another horse now on my hands.

2HowClever: He limps because his joints are so sore from being stoved up in a little paddock for so long, and he also has arthritus in his knees, which is why i mentioned he can't be lunged.
And I *reallly* appreciate your insite, but with the assitance of my vet, I will continue to work on wieght, alot, but also to start on muscle. I've been saying that from the start. I've been working on wieght with micki for a while now, and now i'm starting on muscle to fill him in a little bit. :]
but, again, thankssomuch for the insight. ;]
 
#35 ·
I've used corn for more energy but you have to be careful with corn because too much causes problems. This website talks about which natural grains give the most energy and the pro's and cons and safety considerations for each grain.
Your Guide to Natural Horse Grain

Something else to try is vegitable oils. Different types have slightly different benefits. Most have Omega 3 which is a natural anti-inflamatory so for a horse with arthritis can provide both added energy and some relief for swollen joints.

BOSS Black Oil Sunflower Seeds can be fed whole and can be bought in large bags for a reasonable price but they contain Omega 6 which isn't good for horses with arthritis so talk to your vet before feeding it to Micki
And if you do go that route make sure they are BLACK seeds, the stripped ones have much harder shells and cause colic
Black Oil Sunflower Seeds for Horses

This website is neat too it is the A-Z of some common natural horse feeds and suppliments
What are you feeding your horse? - A-Z horse feed guide - Horsetalk - Horse nutrition and feeding articles and information


That is all that pops into my head at the moment. I got an under muscled underweight horse at the beggining of the summer but my problem was a bit different from yours. She was too energetic, she had an injured leg and was at least 200 pounds underweight (probably more but I suck at guestimating weight on horses :P) and was running off any weight we tried to put on her. She has massive seperation anxiety and had to be kept with another animal so we couldn't put her in a stall so I was trying to get her to gain weight without giving her energy :P I fed her a grain mix similar to sweat feed but with no mollasses, instead they put corn oil in. Which still gave her energy but I think it has more a lasting energy instead of the sugar rush of the sweat feed. I might be wrong bt my old riding instructor thought it made sense when I asked if it was a good idea. I mixed it 1/3 grain mix to 2/3 high fat/high fibre chunks.
The first picture is after a month of all she could eat grass and hay and being dewormed. I don't have any pictures of when she first came from the auction and I don't have any of when I first saw her but she was so skinny then that it made me sick. She went from the first picture to the second in a bit under a month on 24/7 turn out in a good 2 acre pasture with as much fresh water as she could drink and no hay because they just layed on it and wouldn't ever touch it to eat it because they (they is her and a cow who she adopted as her best friend) liked the grass better. She was hand walked a couple times a week but other then that she just ran around in the field for exercise.
 

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