How we teach a 'One Rein Stop' - Page 2

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How we teach a 'One Rein Stop'

This is a discussion on How we teach a 'One Rein Stop' within the Horse Training forums, part of the Training Horses category
  • One rein stop julie goodnight video
  • How do u train a horse to do emergency stop?

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    03-25-2011, 03:46 PM
Cherie, thanks for a lot of good info!

Man, I guess a few "well-broke" horses who bolted with me & ran through the two-rein pull weren't so broke after all! :)

Bsms, I don't want you to have a horse at any level run off with you & you're only making it worse by pulling back on both reins. Hopefully, if it happens, you'll remember this discussion & simultaneously learn that it ain't working!

I believe that a rider should also know the pulley-rein stop, as taught by Julie Goodnight, because unless a horse has the one-rein "infallibly" on him, so that he stops without having to have room to circle in, like on a narrow trail, one is in trouble. Google for video of Julie's pulley-rein stop, for narrow trails & such! :)
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    03-25-2011, 03:50 PM
Originally Posted by Cherie    
... I cannot argue with suppositions from someone that has never done it.
I've only been on two bolting horses. The first, I tried a ORS and it didn't work for squat - but then, maybe the 15 year old cow horse hadn't been trained to do a ORS. The second time my horse bolted (different horse, 30 years later), I got her stopped at a fence.

In the arena, I have practiced the ORS as a tightening turn that ends with disengaging, and I find it effective at bringing an excited horse down - but I don't pull her nose to my knee, and I do finish with a disengage.

I'm not making guesses. I'm asking questions based on my experience, and on your way of explaining a ORS differing from what other experienced people have told me when I asked questions.

On the trails near my house, a circle isn't an option. Too much cactus. Add in rocks and little gullies everywhere, and turning the horse's head around doesn't seem like a good cue for anything.

If you post instructions on emergency procedures, then honest questions and discussion should be acceptable.
    03-25-2011, 03:55 PM
Originally Posted by Northern    
...I believe that a rider should also know the pulley-rein stop, as taught by Julie Goodnight, because unless a horse has the one-rein "infallibly" on him, so that he stops without having to have room to circle in, like on a narrow trail, one is in trouble. Google for video of Julie's pulley-rein stop, for narrow trails & such! :)
I've posted that video several times. It was eye-opening when I first saw it a couple of months ago, and in practicing it with my horses, it SEEMS very effective. On any trail near me, that is really the only option I know of for an emergency stop. I've never tried it for real, and am hoping that the training I'm doing with our horses is reducing the chance of doing it for real.

For those who haven't seen it, start it at around 4:00 minutes:

    03-25-2011, 03:55 PM
Super Moderator
I thought the horse that I was riding on when we bumped into the wild hog was pretty well broke, but he wasn't broke enough to stick around to meet the hog. We would have taken one mighty quick trip down the mountain if I had not grabbed one rein. The trail was narrow enough right there that a regular circle was out of the question. It was not over 5 or 6 feet between cedars and cacti. The 2 or 3 circles we made were pretty close to reining horse spins when he stopped and stood.

We were not 10 feet from where we met the hog.
    03-25-2011, 07:47 PM
With the one rein not working on that horse: it didn't work because the horse must be priorly trained to do it.

Re: hindquarters disengaging duriing the ors: cherie's right that horse should discern between head & hindquarter yields. If you ask for hindquarter yield at end of ors, then no problem.
    03-25-2011, 08:16 PM
Question: Does this technique work regardless of the type of bit you are using?
    03-25-2011, 10:04 PM
Which technique - ORS or pulley - do you mean?

ORS - can be done with a curb as well as a snaffle, but pull straight back with your bicep, with your forearm in exact same line/plane as the rein. Train horse priorly, without the curb, to save horse's mouth. A curb multiplies pounds of pressure many X, so you're not going to want to actually pull on the curb, because you want to save his mouth. (unless absolutely necessary, in an emergency)

Pulley can be done with both snaffle & curb, but tact is needed with the curb, for same reason.
    03-25-2011, 10:12 PM
Okay, thanks for the clarification because all I have is a curb bit. The shanks break away (have hinges on them).... but the bit is a solid piece with a port in the middle.

Sorry, I'm not educated on proper terminology or even different types of bits for that matter. The guy I bought him from said that's what bit he rides in, so that's what I bought. He is VERY soft in the mouth (which means 'to me') that he reins VERY easily with only a hint of a tug in the direction you want him to go. I would hate to teach him something in the wrong piece of equipment and do any damage, physically, mentally, or emotionally, so I'll need counsel on what to do.
    03-25-2011, 10:14 PM
P.s. And I wont do ANYTHING until I know exactly how to do it because I would rather do nothing than do something wrong.
    03-27-2011, 09:18 PM
Super Moderator
As I said in the article, it is best to teach it in a snaffle. I prefer either a Dee Ring or Full Cheek snaffle because they will not pulll through the mouth of a really stiff or resistant horse.

Once the horse has been taught to give its head at all gaits, then, you can use any bit with a 'loose' swivel shank. Since it is pretty counter productive to do much training on a green or resistant horse with a long shanked bit, I would stay with a bit that is either a true snaffle or is a training bit with short loose shanks.

I frequently train in a colt bit with a 3 piece mouth (French link or dog-bone) and a 4 inch shank with a big 'tear-drop' rein loop. The rein end of the bit is big enough that I can use a running martingale with it and the bit is mild enough that, for some horses, I can use a very loose curb chain and it has a lot of 'gag' action for stiff necked older horses.

This little bit works very well for taking a horse's head away from him, but I still teach it in a snaffle.

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