Leaving a horse tied for hours? - Page 4 - The Horse Forum
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post #31 of 193 Old 03-24-2011, 11:57 PM
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Originally Posted by DubyaS6 View Post
It's an over exaggeration until you NEED your horse to stand tied for a long period of time.

Picture being on a trail ride with a friend and something very traumatic happens and you are left immobile. Your friend must ride to get help and you are left there unable to move and function.

In order to hurry, your friend cannot take your horse with her (pony the horse).

Would you rather have a horse that will stand tied (maybe even ground tied) until help arrives, or one that wants to dance around on top of you when you are in physical pain?

I know this is a fictitious story, but it could happen (and probably has happened) to you or someone that may eventually own your horse.

I have seen horses nap in the pasture in the same area for hours. I don't see how them having a halter on and tied to a tree (or something similar) could be perceived as cruel or mean.
Well said. And it did happen to me - not on a trail and not without close assistance but it happened. Recently. And my beautiful girl walked 10' away and just stood there. I was so proud of her, even through the pain!

"Not evil, dear. Wicked." - Once Upon A Time.
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post #32 of 193 Old 03-25-2011, 12:51 AM
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First, Don't Call Your Horse a Knucklehead.

JDW: The horse is not a knucklehead: he simply hasn't learned to yield to pressure, in the case of leading & tying, to poll pressure.

By breaking an expensive leather halter, horse showed you that you had the wrong halter on him. You need a rope knotted halter to start teaching him to yield to poll pressure in leading & tying.

First, start by pushing down, causing a bit of discomfort, with a finger on either side of his crest, behind his poll. When he yields his head down the slightest bit, jump those fingers off of him to show him that when he yields, his reward is removal of pressure. Get it to the point that he'll lower his head to the ground at a slight pressure.

Then, with your knotted halter, use the same pressure & release for leading, then for tying, the same, except have a long rope just looped once around a stout hitching rail, & when he goes to "rare" back, let it out, feel with him, but with a BIT of pull. This shows him that you're feeling with him in his fear, & that you're not TRAPPING him, but you're also asking him to think about not reacting so much. Stand opposite the rail from him, rather than behind him. This way, he'll gradually learn that it's ok to be tied, without further drama/accidents.

Last edited by Northern; 03-25-2011 at 12:56 AM.
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post #33 of 193 Old 03-25-2011, 01:09 AM
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Yes. It is a good thing for a horse to learn. I do it everyday for about an hour just so she's use to it. I hope to camp and trail ride with my horse this summer and want her comfortable with being on a picket line. I started out tieing her with a hay bag close and weaned her off of it. While she's tied up I'm close usually doing chores and such. Now she'll stand quietly and doze in the sunshine content to grab a few winks before she has to "work." If you ever plan to show or take your horse off the property this is a valuable training. Not to mention having a horse that will tie quietly while you are grooming, trimming, and tacking up is priceless.
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post #34 of 193 Old 03-25-2011, 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by jdw View Post
Okay; I think this is all wonderful and though I have taught other horses in the past to do this, it has been way long ago and I remember some not-so-good incidents that happened at the time.

I now have an 18 year old that does not stand well; it really irks him and he will try and untie. break halters, etc. to get loose. (he even broke a small tree)

Teach me to teach him, please.........
Firstly, I am not anyone, but a person who has worked and studied horsemanship and management for many years. I do take credit in having been told by an accredited trainer that I was an assest to his barn and got put on his payroll as an associate to his business. I have several issues to address here, but your's takes priority in my "mind's eye".

Secondly, I never worked with a horse in a training situation, a camping trip with our horses without a very sharp, specially made rope cutting knife. Never can know when it might have come in handy for emergencies. Thankfully I never needed it.

idw - This is an exact rendition of what I did to train my QH mare to stop pulling back, breaking lead rope bull snaps and stand tied quietly when ever necessary, which was very often. What you need to do with your 18 y/o is get a 1/4 inch nylon rope-tied halter with braided in lead and about a separate 15 foot of 3/4 diameter nylon braided rope. Take the 15 foot of nylon rope and make a very strong, very non-slip knot with a loop big enough to go over your horse's head and hang about a foot or so below the jowl groove. Then with the knotted halter with lead attached run the loose end of the 'neck rope" back down the jowl space between it and the halter. The next step, and make this indelible in your mind's eye, do not tie in any fashion a hard and fast tie knot of either the lead rope or the neck rope. Tie the halter lead rope then tie the tail of the neck rope about a foot or so longer. When you horse sets back the rope halter will stop him for certain, but the neck rope will be there for insurance.
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post #35 of 193 Old 03-25-2011, 11:00 AM
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That's how my draft horse was trained.

I believe every horse should be able to stand still and behave for as long as you ask them to. It's almost a necessity. I don't have any problem with tying them for hours, although I'd make sure they have water, especially on hot days.

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What a man can be, he must be.
" Abraham Maslow, 1968
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post #36 of 193 Old 03-25-2011, 11:18 AM
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We had a "thinking" tree for horses that wanted to pull back. This tree was about 3 feet wide in diameter. No horse would budge this tree by pulling back. We also had a extremely thick chain wrapped around the tree a little higher than the horse's head. It's imperative that the horse cannot break or pull down whatever they are tied to when they pull back or this will just reinforce the behavior.

We had a horse that pulled over the hot walker because he would pull back so hard. Took him to the tree and tied him with a rope halter. He did pull back very hard and had a major fit, but it only took one fit for him to realize that it wasn't happening.

I do definitely agree that you need to have a knife handy to cut the rope if needed. Horses can definitely injure their selves and even die in severe cases. Most horses have to learn on their own to a certain extent. I definitely agree with teaching them the poll pressure give and release. This is invaluable and will help when they throw their "fit" at the tree.
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post #37 of 193 Old 03-25-2011, 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by maura View Post
Standing while tied for extended periods of time not only teaches "patience", it's basic submission.

Some trainers are good at teaching submission through other, more subtle or more complex ground work methods, but standing while tied is a good, very basic way of doing it.

It's really the equivelent of teaching a dog a "long down" for basic submission at the beginning of obedience training - a horse that sleeps on the cross ties is the equivelent of a dog that naps on a long down. Not only have they learned basic submission, they're relaxed about it.

I agree with the poster who asked "How long do you think you want your horse to stand quietly?" I want a horse that will stand quietly, tied to the trailer, with a hay net in front of him for 8 - 10 hours at a stretch, with an occassional water break.
What she said!
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post #38 of 193 Old 03-25-2011, 11:29 AM
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It's a very humbling experience. It helps with ground manners and many other issues... I don't have an issue with it.

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post #39 of 193 Old 03-25-2011, 03:02 PM
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I do agree with the concept of teaching to give to poll pressure; I had never really thought about it that way. Teaching to lead correctly while respecting the handler's space is one of my first steps in starting a horse, right after accepting handling on any part of their body. I guess I have always taught the yielding to poll pressure and just thought of it as halter breaking, rather than the specific skill of yielding to poll pressure. I can certainly see how trying to teach standing while tied to a horse that doesn't know how to yield to pressure on a lead rope could lead to disaster.

See? That's what I like about discussions like this and this board in general. Makes me think about things that I've just taken for granted.
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post #40 of 193 Old 03-25-2011, 03:16 PM
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OMG, I'm sorry I forgot to add: DON,T EVER TIE A HORSE SOLID WITH A KNOTTED ROPE HALTER & LEAVE HIM! Plus, USE A QUICK-RELEASE KNOT always, with a knotted rope halter!

The rope halter won't break should the horse start to fight it, for whatever reason, increasing the odds greatly that he could seriously hurt himself!
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