No Brakes! - Page 7 - The Horse Forum
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post #61 of 86 Old 07-11-2013, 11:30 AM Thread Starter
Green Broke
 
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I would go bitless if she listened. Ill only ride that way in the arena. also the not picking up the lead thing is resent and driving me nuts lol. Sense I put back shoes on her she wont pick it up. Im willing to do the work, I have tried the seat thing and no reins thing and got no where. Ill try everything you guys have said and see what works. Also she dose not toss her head lunging. She is well behaved when lunging and doing ground work, she thinks is a game lol. She is not aloud to get way with anything but she enjoys it (was working with my friends horse lunging. she was grazing and as soon as I put the other horse away she ran into the arena and called at me, all excited lol). As for the lessons that's not possible. Don't have the money and the last person I got lessons from had me bracing lol.
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post #62 of 86 Old 07-11-2013, 12:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KigerQueen View Post
I would go bitless if she listened. Ill only ride that way in the arena.
The bold part is where you are wrong. The bit is not what makes a horse listen.

The arena is where you and this horse belong. Did you take 15 minutes out of your life and watch that video? Watch it! That is what your horse needs. Notice how little contact he has with the horse's face? you can do this with a snaffle.

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also the not picking up the lead thing is resent and driving me nuts lol. Sense I put back shoes on her she wont pick it up.
It is not the shoes causing the not picking up the lead, its the riding.

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Im willing to do the work, I have tried the seat thing and no reins thing and got no where. Ill try everything you guys have said and see what works.
It is not a system of try it 10 minutes. Oh that didn't work and then stopping. You need a program of NO TRAILS. Stay in that arena and get it there. And keep at it. You will go further with this horse doing a 20minute intense arena ride at the walk and putting her away than you will doing everything for 5 minutes in the arena and then taking her out on a trail ride.

If you want to trail ride, do it on a different horse that is broke.

If you want this horse on a trail ride take 6 months and work in the arena only and get the skills you need to go out on the trails with her.

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Also she dose not toss her head lunging. She is well behaved when lunging and doing ground work, she thinks is a game lol.
Of course not. And do you know why? the reason for her head tossing and resistance is standing on the ground, not sitting on her back throwing her off stride or hitting her mouth!!

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She is not aloud to get way with anything but she enjoys it (was working with my friends horse lunging. she was grazing and as soon as I put the other horse away she ran into the arena and called at me, all excited lol).
Less likely that she wants to work as she does not want to be left alone. Horses are herd animals and if there is no other horse there, you are her "herd." Being with you is better than being alone. If another horse was there being with the other horse would likely be better than being with you.

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As for the lessons that's not possible. Don't have the money and the last person I got lessons from had me bracing lol.
I am sorry you do not have the money. This is how so many very nice horses get ruined. People buy a horse thinking it will be like Flicka or Mr. Ed or the Black Stallion... and they can learn as the go like Alec Ramsey. That is fiction.

The reality is you may learn on your own but that way may get you hurt and it will most assuredly ruin what looks to be a very very nice little horse. Eventually you may learn.. but how many horses will your ruin in the process? Don't you want your horse to do well?

You really need a good coach.. which is what a good teacher is. And a good horse well broke to learn on.

Well.. I have given all the suggestions I have. All the ones that work.

There is something about the outside of a horse that is good for the inside of a man. ~Winston Churchill
(or woman!!!! ) Dinosaur Horse Trainer

Last edited by TaMMa89; 07-16-2013 at 04:30 PM.
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post #63 of 86 Old 07-11-2013, 02:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KigerQueen View Post
I would go bitless if she listened.
Bitless does not mean bridle less, it means something like a hackamore.

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Originally Posted by Elana View Post
After reading the responses here and the OP's resistance to them (sort of like her mare) I think what she wants is a magic answer. She does not want the arena work to get her mare supple and listening.
I agree, and so I am out.
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post #64 of 86 Old 07-11-2013, 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by AlexS View Post
Not really sure what you mean as 'against the horse'. It's surely with the horse and what we should be aiming for as it's not yanking on their mouth and riding with our seat. No?

Or do you mean riding with smarts so not just using force? Honestly I don't know what you are meaning.
I mean what you mean- the rider using their seat to stop the horses forward drive.. when i stop my horse i kick my feet forward and give a light snap snap snap to stop- that sounds too simple.. when i kick my feet and legs forward i am using my seat to push forward (like a fart how you explained ) and stopping my horses forward drive using my seat- i do not snatch my horses face- i barley even touch the reins- i wanted to make that clear that i give jerks but not a snatch- a light tap on the reins but i could use my seat only- picking up the reins makes my horse flex at the pole so she collects and tucks her tush in the stop.. if i gave her a yanking snatch on the reins id be a toto pancake, lol.






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I agree, you feel it happening before it happens and that's the time to stop it. Head either goes up or down as they brace, and that depends on the horse, but you should feel the back end come under, just power, a hard, sharp turn is needed in this moment, but I think this is for a more advanced rider. A horse does not just bolt, there's warnings first. But I don't know how to explain feel to a newer rider.
Reckon i shoulda held my tongue on that one-- im just too helpful- or try to be.. i realized thats one of those things we have to figure out on our own but i just wanted to kind of give a hint to make it easy to figure out.

I agree- shell learn when her horse puts all the focus on something else and not on her where it should be and correct it- thing is that bits gonna make the horse hard in the mouth and its gonna take a lot more work to fix that.
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post #65 of 86 Old 07-14-2013, 03:59 PM Thread Starter
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She was ridden in a hack and she would try to flip over regardless who was riding her( and freak out even if you dropped the reins). Side pulls she will completely ignore. Ill ride her in her side pull mustang halter as she listens to that mostly (only in the arena). And I don't think i will ruin her. If a almost 300lb Mexican cowboy galloped her almost every day for a year on the street and she was used for tripping (having her front legs roped out from underneath her) and she is getting better im not worried. If I ride her every day she gets amazing brakes. but the longer her she sits (ex the summer) the worst her brakes gets.
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post #66 of 86 Old 07-14-2013, 04:39 PM
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If you paid a $100 for a float, you got a minimal handfloat, those are fine for horses that have no suspected problems in the mouth, your horse definitely does. You are going to have to anti up for a vet from a large animal practice that specializes in dentistry to sedate and powerfloat, I bet she has problems way at the back and ulcers back where you can't see in her mouth. Then you can restart her like a greenie, with a snaffle and don't skip anything.
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post #67 of 86 Old 07-14-2013, 05:04 PM Thread Starter
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Her mouth is fine. look in there myself. And not to sound mean but i payed $500 for the horse, im not and do not have the $900 it will cost to bring her to a vet I hate. The only vet clinic here is chaperell. My friend used them for a foundered horse. when she was gone the vet had a farrier but shoes on him and he sank withing a day. the other vet that worked there had to put him down. she did NOT sedate him, and did not give him enough to kill him at first. poor horse suffered. So no I WILL NOT bring my horse to toughs people. I don't know how to start a horse and the only person who could teach me is done with horses. Ill work her in the halter and see how that works.
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post #68 of 86 Old 07-14-2013, 05:10 PM Thread Starter
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I may add its the vets fault the horse foundered in the first place.
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post #69 of 86 Old 07-14-2013, 05:14 PM
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You say you want to put the time and effort in but all you do is come up with a million reasons why the advice on here wont work and I think everyone has given you pretty good advice. Here's mine: if you're unwilling to do what you need to do to train your horse (get a vet, hire a trainer, etc) then sell the **** horse and buy one you can handle. You're doing no one ang favors by working with a horse you cant handle by yourself without professional help. Sorry if this sounds rude but I think its what you need to hear.
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post #70 of 86 Old 07-14-2013, 05:24 PM Thread Starter
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to give incite as to how she was previously trained here are some examples:
took a while to brake her of this and to get her to tie without losing it

this is the kind of stuff he tried to use her for until he realized he needed a stock horse

And this is what she was used for before her last owner


So lack of a good stop is all we need to work on. And again about the wrong lead. she would ALWAYS pic it up UNTIL I put back shoes on.
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