Parelli games - The Horse Forum
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post #1 of 8 Old 06-10-2009, 11:02 PM Thread Starter
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Parelli games

What are the 6 Parelli games? I read on here that they should be done in a certain order, can someone tell me the name of the games and in what order they need to be done.

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post #2 of 8 Old 06-10-2009, 11:19 PM
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Hello, there are 7 parelli games
1. Friendly
3 Driving
4Yo Yo
5 circle
6 squeeze game
7 Sideways game

they should be done in that order as well

Horses and children, I often think, have a lot of the good sense there is in the world.
Josephine Demott Robinson
Feed, muck, groom, ride. Repeat daily!
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post #3 of 8 Old 06-11-2009, 09:13 AM
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Begin with "The friendly game." This game allows you to start the trust process.
Choose a large, enclosed area for this session, and don't use a lead rope just yet.
Take your hand and very slowly place it on the horses body. The neck is a good place to start.
Allow the horse to get used to you touching his neck. Do this gradually, then choose a new place.
Continue until you can touch the horse everywhere without him having a problem.
Move on to loud or irritating things to touch the whole body with, like a piece of tarp or a jar full of rattling objects. This may take several sessions, and head shy horses will take more time to except handling of the head. Before proceeding to step two, you should be able to put a small tarp over your horses head. This is going to take time, so don't expect to be done after only one training session.
Move on to the "porcupine" game, once the previous level has been fully mastered. This level will begin to tell the horse that he should listen to your touch and go with it rather then fight it.
Touch your horse anywhere, gently spreading your fingers and pressing them against your horses skin.
Don't apply any pressure with your hand yet. If the horse moves, immediately remove your hands and praise... even if it's only a half a step.
Apply a small amount of pressure if your horse doesn't move, and get increasingly firmer until you get a response.
Soften your facial expression, take your fingers off, and praise your horse as soon as he responds.
Continue doing this until the horse moves by just the touch of your fingers. (*hint* the levels of pressure are hair, skin, muscle, bone. these are how hard you should be pushing. i.e. if you are doing the game, you should begin with just touching the hair and then push the skin and then the muscle and then the bone until he/she moves.)
Move on to the "driving game." This game gets the horse to move without actually having to touch him. You literally have to the touch the air.
Look like you're going to do the porcupine game but don't actually touch the horse. If level two was done properly, the horse will eventually move without having to be touched.
Make sure that every single one of these have been done completely, otherwise the next one will not work. This one is called the "YoYo" game. In this game, you will move your horse forward and backward on command.
Stand in front of your horse with a plain "poker" face.
Wiggle your finger and see if he/she backs up. If not, shake your wrist, if not, shake your elbow, if not, shake the lead rope with your whole arm (this may be a bad idea for skittish or head shy horses; desensitize first and then practice a lot more with the other movements before continuing.) After you shake the lead rope, he should back up.
Soften your face, smile and praise him once he backs up. You have the first "Yo" now you need the other "yo."
Make smooth combing motions on your lead rope and keep the constant motion. If he/ she doesn't come to you, close your fingers a little bit.
If the horse does not come towards you, then continue to close your fingers, keeping your motion. If you get to the point where you are completely closed and you can't keep combing, hold the rope.. don't pull, just hold the rope until the horse comes to you, and praise him.
Keep doing this until all you have to do is wiggle your finger and comb the rope for your horse to go back and forth.
Continue on to level 5, the "circling game." This game takes advantage of horses' natural instinct of circling other horses to gain respect. You goal is to work the horse around you enough times to tap into his respect response, without causing him to become bored and unresponsive (between 2 and 4 circles is recommended.)
Place a lunge line on your horse's halter. Use this to turn your horse into a circle around you in the direction of your choice.
Get the horse so that he continues circling you, until you intervene and ask him to stop. Stand still in the middle and only move to keep the horse going or to stop him.
If it helps, draw a circle around yourself to show where he should be.
You're almost there! In step six or game six you will learn the "Sideways Game." In this game you will get your horse to move sideways.
Attach a lead rope to you horse's halter, making the rope loose.
Point his/her nose towards a wall, fence or other large solid object so your horse cannot move forward. Standing at his shoulder, use your fingers (see Porcupine Game) to push the horse sideways. Even if the horse makes a tiny step, praise him.
Continue this until you don't need to touch your horse, there is no wall in front of the horse, and he/she will go sideways until you stop giving the commands.
Move on to step 7, the "Squeeze Game". You will need a large open space between you and a fence, wall, etc. Since horses are naturally claustrophobic, this game will convince your horse to trust and obey you in claustrophobic situations (this is very helpful for things like loading your horse into a trailer.)
Send your horse through the gap between you and the object, and each time your horse goes through it, close the gap by a half a step or so, until your horse can do it in the smallest amount of space possible.

Remember that this is going to take a lot of time and patience and your horse is not going to do everything right the first time.
It is helpful to know your horses history (has she ever been trained with this method or another way? Was she abused? etc.)
Different horses learn differently... This article is for the more "basic" horse.
Do not start to do this and then decide it's a waste of time... you need to go all the way to the end. You won't regret it if you've done it right!
Don't push your horse into something it doesn't want to do. That will weaken the trust bond. If the horse seems uncomfortable with something, talk to your horse, let it know that everything is going to be ok. Occasional breaks are always nice.
Remember, your horse is trying really hard so they should be praised, even if they only sort of do it.
More frequent shorter sessions are better then less frequent longer sessions. They just get boring for you and your horse.
Each training session should be ended on a good note and with a little free time and some playing time.
Remember that anything done with your hand, should also be done with your carrot stick and savvy string, to show your horse it is not a whip but an extension of your arm.

If it wasn't for the bad stuff.... it wouldn't make winning so great.
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post #4 of 8 Old 06-11-2009, 11:31 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info.
waterbuggies is offline  
post #5 of 8 Old 06-11-2009, 06:25 PM
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Sideways come before Squeeze ;)
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post #6 of 8 Old 06-11-2009, 06:52 PM
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you know i have never really thought of trying this but it sounds worth it! my horse is already trained and stuff but he can always get better and it would strengthen our bond! i think ill try it! :)
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post #7 of 8 Old 06-11-2009, 10:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Spirithorse View Post
Sideways come before Squeeze ;)
Yes , Sideways before the Squeeze game

I dont do them in order anymore so I mix them up for variety now that we know them...the sideways was the hardest for us ( Me) to learn

thanks for the correction

Horses and children, I often think, have a lot of the good sense there is in the world.
Josephine Demott Robinson
Feed, muck, groom, ride. Repeat daily!
RadHenry09 is offline  
post #8 of 8 Old 06-11-2009, 10:58 PM
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Yea, once the horse knows the games you should start mixing them up (and advancing them) so that the horse doesn't become bored.
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