Progressing to a curb for showing - Page 3
 
 

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Progressing to a curb for showing

This is a discussion on Progressing to a curb for showing within the Horse Training forums, part of the Training Horses category

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        08-21-2013, 07:23 PM
      #21
    Showing
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by smrobs    
    Yep, totally unfair that they've got all those draft sized English bits, but the only western options we have are either the typical solid curb (which there is nothing really wrong with except they are very limiting as far as feel goes)


    Or a stinking Tom Thumb *grumble*.
    Right?! I found a bit on horse.com that I love the look of (Bob Avila medium port Rio bit) and of course it only comes in a 5" mouthpiece. Grrrr! Argh!!
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        08-22-2013, 08:19 AM
      #22
    Green Broke
    True Pelham bits should NOT be JOINTED. Add the joint and the become tom Thumb or some other thing.. not a true pelham (and I do not care WHAT the bit sellers have them listed as!).

    They come in mullen and curb mouths and the mouths are often rubber covered. My pelham was a smooth mullen mouth with eggbutt ends. Sometimes the lips can be pinched if you don't use an egg butt.

    ALWAYS lay the curb chain FLAT and realize that the tighter the chain the more severe your hands can be. LIGHT HANDS are essential. But they should be anyway.

    You can use a converter and a single rein or learn to ride with two reins. I learned with two because I was transitioning some horses to a full bridle at some point.
    Attached Images
    File Type: jpg Rubber mouth pelham.jpg (5.0 KB, 25 views)
    File Type: jpg Eggbutt mullen mouth pelham.jpg (5.7 KB, 26 views)
    Corporal likes this.
         
        08-22-2013, 12:17 PM
      #23
    Showing
    Elana, you don't see Pelhams much in my area, so I was going off pictures online. Google "Pelham bit" and 90% of what pop up are jointed. That's why I thought Pelhams were jointed. After Cynical pointed out that they are not supposed to be jointed, I settled on a polo Pelham (with a mildly ported mouthpiece).
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        08-22-2013, 01:00 PM
      #24
    Green Broke
    I did Google it and was surprised at the amount of misinformation (I grabbed the photos off Google Search).

    Tho I should not be surprised. Ignorance/misinformation and training horses (or dogs) often seem to go hand in hand and have for as long as man has partnered with these animals. :(
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        08-22-2013, 01:31 PM
      #25
    Showing
    I do have a question regarding the rein converters. How do they work? I mean, does it engage the curb all the time or...?
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        08-22-2013, 04:08 PM
      #26
    Yearling
    Here's a bit I use.


    If you are going to a curb.....use a low port, DO NOT use a jointed mouth. The combination of a jointed mouth, long shanks, and a curb chain were NOT meant to go together.

    Oh, and I ride two-handed in a curb bit when I school often times.....you certainly can direct rein in a curb.
    Corporal and Elana like this.
         
        08-22-2013, 04:17 PM
      #27
    Trained
    Riding with 4 reins isn't difficult. Make sure that both sets of reins are the same length. I like to use a set of braided reins for the snaffle rings and flat reins for the curb rings. You run the snaffle reins on the outside of your pinkies and you cross and run the curb reins between your ring and pinky fingers JUST LIKE DIRECT REINING WITH A SNAFFLE.
    What I was suggesting is that you can use the Pelham to drop one set at a time, or use equal pressure on the snaffle and curb--much like a "full bridle" which uses two BITS--and teach your horse to halt and half halt feeling the bit on the bars AND the fulcrum effect of the curb.
    You horse can get a chance to respond to one or the other or both at the same time, and you don't have to dismount to change bridles during the same schooling session. Later on, when your horse is finished you can get a converter, which is piece of leather for both sides of the bit than converts it from 4 reins back to 2 reins, like NORMAL.
    As Elana said, TWIST THE CURB CHAIN CLOCKWISE until it makes the links smooth, then adjust so that you can fit two of your fingers in between the horse and the curb chain for a correct adjustment. IF you use a leather piece instead of a metal curb chain, you adjust the same way.
         
        08-22-2013, 04:24 PM
      #28
    Showing
    Thanks, Corporal! That made a lot of sense.

    And sorry, I just realized that you are the one who suggested the Pelham, not Cynical. Stoopid brain. Lol
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        08-22-2013, 04:33 PM
      #29
    Trained
    NO problem!! I don't live or die by getting credit for good ideas. SEVERAL people have posted really good suggestions. I have been looking for that bit that Elana posted bc I can't find it anymore in ANY catalogs! But, I already own 3, so it doesn't matter. Honestly, ALL of the non-jointed curbs posted on this thread look great to me!
         
        08-22-2013, 04:38 PM
      #30
    Showing
    I just like giving credit where credit is due.

    My biggest problem is finding any of the curbs posted in the right size. :-/ Guess we're going to have to go with custom-made.
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